|1977 Nishiki International||techie470|
Oct 26, 2002 9:03 AM
|I was just given this bike from a friend, she said that it has less then 50 miles on it and has been hanging in the garage since new. The bike is all original (even down to the reflectors) but has a couple of storage scratches in the paint.
It's equipped as below
Dia Comp brakes
Suntour V-GT Luxe rear derailleur (5 speed)
Comp-V front derailleur
Shimano hubs and quick release
Sugino crank (dual chainring)
crome molybdenum frame
I want to regrease the bearings and replace the tires/tubes to use it as my utility bike.
What I would like to know, is this bike anything special or just a generic bike. Also what kind of BB tools will I need to open it to grease it.
|re: 1977 Nishiki International||eddie m|
Oct 26, 2002 11:39 AM
|As I recall, that was a pretty nice bike back then. The Suntour derailleurs worked better than Campy (at least for the first year or so). If it has decent alloy rims it's still worth riding, but it's not worth restoring or upgrading. I'd convert it to a fixed gear if the gears didn't work perfectly.|
|re: 1977 Nishiki International||Walter|
Oct 27, 2002 4:11 AM
|I seem to recall them beind decently equipped but having heavy frames. With such little use should work fine after the tuneup for what you want,|
|Universal Japanese Bike, but||scottfree|
Oct 28, 2002 10:26 AM
|that's a GOOD thing.|
|I remember that bike||Straightblock|
Oct 28, 2002 4:36 PM
|I built up quite a few of them at the LBS back then. The International was in the upper half of Nishiki's line. They were much nicer to work on than the low-end stuff, but not "pro" quality. Around 1978, Nishiki changed the International from long wheelbase touring geometry to a more performance-oriented frame with better components, but it still wasn't a race bike. If yours has centerpull brakes it's probably the older model; I'm pretty sure the later one had sidepulls. It probably has 27" wheels, too, so your choice of tires will be limited. It's not a classic or collectible worth spending a lot on restoring or upgrading, but if all it needs is an overhaul & some TLC it'll make a nice beater/commuter.
To service the bottom bracket you'll need:
14mm metric socket for the crank arm nut
Crank arm puller
Big Crescent wrench for the adjustable cup (you might need a pin spanner for this, but I don't think so)
For the hubs you'll need a freewheel puller, and at least 2 or 3 different sized cone wrenches for the axles. The top nut on the headset can be loosened with a big Crescent, but the next ring likely takes a lockring spanner, smaller than the one for the bottom bracket. Resist the temptation to use channel lock pliers or vise grips on the BB & headset lockrings or you'll bugger them up & they'll never stay tight.
And of course, all the normal bikie tools like metric allen wrenches and metric socket or combination wrenches.
If you don't already have most of these tools, it might be a big investment for a bike that's nice but nothing special, and some of the tools won't have any application on modern bikes. OTOH, if you don't have much experience with bike repair & maintenance, this might be a good place to learn. See if your local library has any books on bikes from the "10-speed bike boom" of the late 70's with a section on repair before you get in deep. Resurrecting an old bike, even if it's not a classic or a collectible, can be satisfying. Fix it up, just don't put much money into it.
|I remember that bike||techie470|
Nov 5, 2002 10:52 AM
|Thanks for the maintance info, that was just what I am looking for. I don't want to spend much money on this but it looks like the only tools I'll need to purchase are the lockring spanners.
Certenly doesn't shift like the indexed shiftering on my Lemond. All in all it's kinda nice to have a 25 year old new bike.
Nov 5, 2002 10:54 AM
|One thing you'll want to do||Straightblock|
Nov 6, 2002 8:37 AM
|is get rid of the "suicide levers" (they actually called them "safety levers" during the 70's). Just take out the screw holding them to the main lever pivot. You'll end up with a stub about 10mm long sticking out of the lever, but it won't hurt anything to use it like that. You can saw the pins off flush with the lever body if it bothers you, or you might find some shorter pins at the LBS. They were the same on all the old Dia Compe & Weinmann levers made at that time. Getting rid of the extra levers will let you adjust the brake cables for more pull and better performance, give the bike a cleaner look, and let you put hoods on the levers.
Also consider losing the "nut buster" shifters on the stem. Look for some old SunTour clamp-on downtube shifters (you might get lucky & find some cheap old-stock stuff at the LBS. I especially liked the ratchet ones) or old friction/ratchet bar-end shifters. Either would be appropriate for a bike of that vintage.
|I have a slightly newer Nishiki.||look271|
Nov 22, 2002 9:02 AM
|It's the Prestige and it also has Suntour/Diacomp components. Tange 2 lugged frame, 12-speed. Works great as a cokmmuter/trainer/beater bike. Frame is heavy but rides nice. Here it is. It usually is adorned with lights as well.|| |