|Flip flop hub spacing||Lone Gunman|
Jul 11, 2002 3:31 PM
|Okay, the Suzue track hub came today and I placed it in the rear dropouts and fit as though it was tailor made for my dropout spread. As I see it, there is no spacer fiddling to be done to the axle to make it fit properly between the dropouts. Is this normal or does the fixed side and/or the free side fit a different distance from the center line of the hub and that would be the reason for the spacing? Any suggestions? I also see a hop in my chainring (new). S. Brown mentioned something about whacking it gently with a hammer when the chain binds at the hop point to correct the hop. Anyone ever do this?|
|I'm more worried about the dish issue ...||Humma Hah|
Jul 11, 2002 3:47 PM
|... I'm about to find out (just ordered my flip-flop hub today), but I've not heard anything on the MTBReview singlespeed forum about much trouble getting good chain aligment flipped either way. Freewheels were designed to screw in interchangably, and to be compatible with track cogs.
What's more bothersome to me, when my wheelsmith at the LBS mentioned he'd dish my wheel to center it up nicely once the chain alignment was good, I've started to worry that if much dishing is required, the wheel will be perfect one way, off-centered when flipped. I'm hoping to run 32mm tires in the Paramount's skinny frame, and it won't stand much shift in rim position when flip-flopped.
|I have read that a zero dish condition is what you get||Lone Gunman|
Jul 11, 2002 5:05 PM
|or what is the optimum condition for a flipper. Wow, 32mm tires, why so big? 11/8" on my Viscount look huge, have you tried those 32s yet? In looking at my track hub, it easily fits inside of the front hub flange to flange. So it is narrow and not much dish can be done, plus the outside of the hub to the contact point with the washer at the dropout is equal distance on both sides. I took a yardstick and held it tight on the inside of the chainring and ran it back to the rear hub, it was on top of the inside threads to the flange of the hub, I have got to be real close to a correct chainline. Tomorrow I should be able to get my sprockets and then see what I got for a chainline.
The hubs, now that I got them lubed and set up are quite possibly the slickest smoothest I have ever owned. I predict speed with this setup for 1 gear.
|Virginia roads and my riding habits ...||Humma Hah|
Jul 12, 2002 8:04 AM
|Virginia roads are often in poor repair (although I promised myself, after seeing the roads in NYC, that I'd never complain about Virginia roads again). But the condition of the roads was a big reason why I stuck with the cruiser and never switched to a roadbike in my youth.
I've picked up some sloppy riding habits on that tank I usually ride. To stay away from traffic, I typically ride the gutter, get slammed by uneven joints in the concrete, etc. If something is in front of me, and I don't think I can avoid it safely, I'll ride right over it -- that has included such things as fallen road barricades. The cruiser soaks up such hits without a wimper.
I'll need to change my habits on the Paramount. However, as I get used to the difference, I wanna run the fattest tires that will fit it. The one I picked up yesterday for a trial fit is a kevlar-armored 32mm.
|What's wit all the dishing?||Ginz|
Jul 11, 2002 6:17 PM
|Singlespeed hubs ought to have zero dishing, that is, not dished at all. The rim should be centered between the hub flanges. I believe that the spacing on either size of the hub should be symmetrical.
I think the idea of redishing a wheel for singlespeed use is important when you are using an old-style freewheel-type road hub. The threads for the freewheel are much farther inboard than on a singlespeed hub. So, you can adjust the spacing a bit on the drive side to achieve a good chainline. Thus, the wheel must be redished to center the rim. I suppose that if you wanted to respace the hub to tweak the chainline on a singlespeed hub, you would also have to redish the wheel. A much cleaner way to achieve a good chainline is to use a different bottom bracket spindle length, mount the chainring inside/outside the spider, use chainring stack spacers, etc... See sheldonbrown.com for more info.
Now for the chainring issue. Do NOT go banging on your chainring with a hammer! Heh heh. Sheldon is discussing the fact that chainrings are not perfectly round. Also, there is a bit of play between the bolt holes and the spider. These two conditions together can mess up your chain tension. I wouldn't worry too much about it. When you are putting the rear wheel on, turn the crank and as it rotates, try to find the chain's tightest point. If you set the tension correctly at this point, their should be enough tension at all points on the cranks rotation, and the chain won't bind at the tightest point.
|Agree on the chainring ...||Humma Hah|
Jul 12, 2002 8:11 AM
|I'm trusting you're right on the dish issue. The guy at my LBS who will build the wheel has probably never done a SS or fixed-gear wheel before.
On the cruiser, which has an old-fashioned single-piece crank and chainwheel (not a bolt/spider and chainring), the eccentricity must be dealt with by shimming the chainwheel, possibly including a few dabs with a grinder bit on a mototool. It is a tedious process, as you must pull the crank and detatch the chainwheel for each adjustment.
Centering a chainring on a roadbike crank is gonna be a treat by comparison, expecially if I can score Campy hardware. A little light tapping with a block of wood while the bolts are barely snug would be my approach, not banging with a hammer.