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so now i gotta improvise . . . . . . .(4 posts)

so now i gotta improvise . . . . . . .Spirito
Jul 7, 2002 11:08 PM
convinced my best mate to pass on his bike, which was too small for him, to one of our mate's (first bike - newbie) and for the summ paid (very little) i promised i would get him a replacement italian ride and have it ready soon.

well i now have him a nice old Atala and as he is tall for once i think he'll actually have a bike suited to his size. its been repainted and is in good condition.

but it's not going to be easy and i have to figure out a few things on the cheap that will have it working.

- i have a set of NOS dia-compe's which are short reach and recessed. the front fits fine but i will need to drill the rear of the fork hole to fit as its originally for nutted brakes. shouldn't be a worry but if anyone has any tips im all ears.

the rear brake however hasn't enough reach and im determined to make a drop bolt which will work.

i will need about 10mm maybe less. ive checked sheldon and i will have to scour NYC for a decent hardware store that may have the right material. any that have done similar i would love to hear from. it doesn't have to be totally elegant but has to work.

front derailler
it doesn't have a cable guide for the front derailleur but i do have a downtube cable guide. the derailleur is a later shimano and am wondering how to run the cable to the right hand side around the seat tube. i think the easiest way would be to cut a short section of cable housing to fit between the cable guide ending - around the seat tube - and to the f/der. cable clamp. this way it wont rub anywhere and will have a smooth bend and be kept in place with tension (well thats my theory anyway). there is no drilling underneath for a bolt-on cable guide and there isnt a budget for another derailleur. ive seen this on a few older bikes - will it work reasonably well?

does anyone know what make of headset this is? looks cool and is all knurls and curves

everything else is cut and dried and will work fairly well (except that the NOS seatpost is a 26.6 and the seatube diameter is a 26.8 - but thats what soda's are for). i have no idea from whence the frame is from but its not that important. its stamped "25" and "c" on the bottom bracket and the fork crown is chrome beneath the paint as are the rear long point ends but am not sure about the other lugs ( a few of which have have longer points).

hopefully ill have it all sorted and for somewhere in the vicinity of $150 for the lot. admittedly most of the parts are a mix of suntour, shimano, sugino and diacompe (nos) with some older italmanubri bar/stem, a miche crankset and some early look pedals. purists will be upset as the only brake levers i have to use are aero and the saddle will be a flite Ti.

any help or ideas will be appreciated. ill post some pics later this week when its fettled and together. grazie mille

oops ... the link for the front cable...Spirito
Jul 7, 2002 11:28 PM

i suppose a short section of housing may help it bend around and work ok - or am i wrong?

Spirito, why do you want to run the cable to the right?Lone Gunman
Jul 8, 2002 5:22 AM
The clamp pictured is standard equipment on no braze on guide bikes. The cable housing is about 7-8" long and runs left of seat tube and behind the tube to the right up to the guide on the derailleur. You want your cable runs to be as straight as possible. Running the housing to the right will put some bends in the road that might diminish performance of the derailleur.
thats all ill need....Spirito
Jul 8, 2002 8:47 AM
as i planned i short section of housing will be needed from the clamp on guide, around the left of the seat tube and up to the f/derailleur. i assume this way the cable will have a smooth run.

i have seen it but not recently so am not sure what sort of arc or bend to have or whether i should straighten it out. ive never had a bike where it didn't have braze-ons for the front deraileur cable so my experience is "0".

i guess ill just keep shortening it till it looks and shifts right.