|More fixie Questions||Lone Gunman|
Jul 3, 2002 5:24 PM
|Just did more reading of the S.Brown site and it has me thinking....
What pedals do I go with? Right now my plan is to go with toe clips and straps on a pair of nice MKS pedals I had from the Viscount. Safe?
Next question is the axle of the Chromie BB. Do I need to switch it out for something a bit more narrow since it was for a double? If I do not need to swap the axle, Do I need to mount the chainring on the inside of the spider or outside? Are BMX chainring bolts the same thing that Harris Cyclery is selling as "short stack bolts"?
Lastly, track nuts. I keep reading that proper track nuts is the way to go. Are BMX nuts the same thing as track nuts, do they function in the same manner?
Sorry for all the Q's, I just hate paying stupid money for shipping and product that functions the same as track stuff that can be had in the neighborhood shop. What is funny is I ask questions from what I have learned from reading S.Brown and the local shop owner looks at me like I am from outer space. It is mostly a BMX shop.
|More fixie answers||Ginz|
Jul 3, 2002 5:40 PM
|Ok, here goes...
The MKS pedals with clips and straps would be fine. I started with them, but quickly switched to clipless. I am comfortable with eggbeaters, as they provide plenty of float. Float will be important because you can't stop pedaling no matter how your weight is shifted. My Campy road pedals just hurt my knees.
Hmm...not sure about the BB, it's just one of those things you'll have to play around with. That's why Sheldon discussed chainring stack spacers, inside the spider, outside the spider and such. Of course, the correct BB spindle length is the cleanest approach to achieving the proper chainline. This way there are no silly spacers and a single chainring is mounted cleanly on the inside of the spider. Yes, I believe that BMX chainring nuts & bolts are the same exact thing as "short stack bolts". The regular length bolts are usable, they just look messy.
I'm not sure if BMX nuts are the same as track nuts. Track nuts have their own captive washer attached. (good stuff!) The nut spins freely from the washer. The nuts at your LBS are probably just serrated flange nuts with serrated washers. Again, the regular flange nuts are useable, but they tend to chew up your paint. Make sure you get the right size nuts, as well.
I've done a ton of reading at Sheldon's website. Don't worry, you'll get it.
|Clips and straps are for ...||Humma Hah|
Jul 5, 2002 3:29 PM
|... track. Some trackies are known to use double straps and have their support crew tighten them with a wrench! Of course, they've either got someone to hold them up before the race, are against the rail, etc, and have no intention of taking their foot off the pedals until well after the race.
... retro-grouches like me who think their vintage bike oughta have toe-clips. However, even I am likely to try clipless on the Paramount once I get tired of toe clips.
... for riding your bike in whatever shoes you need to be wearing at the other end of the ride. No riding shoes required. They're also a good bet if you let someone else ride your bike who doesn't have the right shoes for your clipless pedals.
Much as I hate to admit it, clipless are probably the way to go for serious riding. Nice thing is, pedals can be swapped in about 2 minutes.
|Track nuts ...||Humma Hah|
Jul 5, 2002 3:37 PM
|... I was offered a set of track nuts (chromed) for the 'Mount. They are special, but I've never used them and don't know exactly what is special about them. Pretty, that's for sure, and they'd look fine on that mass of chrome you're working on. They also cost nearly as much as your entire frame.
The loaner track bikes I used at the SD Velodrome had ordinary steel nuts on their solid axels, same as my cruiser. The washers under the nuts are the key, and should have a serrated face to grip the dropouts. These worked fine on the trackie and I've used for singlespeeding for the last ... uh ... 44 years come Monday.
You have forward horizontal dropouts, if I'm not mistaken. True track bikes have rear-facing dropouts and tensioner adjustments. I suspect the special nuts have something to do with the tensioners, which your bike lacks.
|Nuts and pedals...||Lone Gunman|
Jul 5, 2002 6:43 PM
|The idea of the nuts thing came from reading descriptions from S. Brown's site. And I think I read part of the info while looking at his offerings on rear hubs as I need to buy a track hub that is a flipin/fix and the one I have settled on is a Suzue basic track hub. Not alot of work to be done on that hub as the axle will fit up to a 130mm, just need to get the spacing right. Anyway his pics of proper track nuts show nuts connected to serrated washers, so I know what I am looking for and I will examine a set of BMX nuts to see if they will work. Otherwise I will spend the $8 for track nuts from Harris Cyclery. My dropouts are a horizontal Campy 1010 type.
I have 3 options on pedals, road toeclips for years, and now mostly clipless Looks. The chromie came with a pair of rat trap type alloy pedals that cleaned up to shop worn condition, got a pair of clipless, and the toe clip pair. I have a pair of black Lake cycling shoes w/o cleats that would work fine. Mainly concerned about safety of riding a fix with toe clips. Thoughts are it would look so cool with all that chrome to ride toe clips again.
|New to fixie?||Walter|
Jul 6, 2002 7:04 PM
|I don't remember from your prev. posts if this'll be your first fixie or not. If it is I recommend taking your first few rides with those rat-traps you just mentioned and maybe clips w/o straps. After a few rides add straps or go clipless as you prefer. As has been pointed out changing pedals isn't but a minute or 2 of work.
|Completely, thought about doing it last spring...||Lone Gunman|
Jul 7, 2002 5:55 AM
|and then shelved the idea as I began working on the Viscount restore. Then this full chrome caught my eye and it was the right size frame and had a few parts that could be solid backups for the Viscount that were interchangable so the Viscount may become a fixie some day and the Chromie as my backup.
The pedal thing sounds like sound advise, I may practice in a car free parking lot first and get a feel for the deal.
|re: More fixie Questions||eddie m|
Jul 7, 2002 2:47 AM
|You don't ned to change the bottom bracket. I've found that the small ring (of most Sugino doubles)line up well enough with the rear cog of a 126 mm 6 speed hub. If it does not line up, recentering the rear wheel is an easier, cheaper job than trying to find the right bottom bracket axle. I recently switched to a narrower symetrical bottom bracket and I put the chainring on the outside position. I had to realign the wheel. It looks better, has slightly more ground clearance in corners (although that was not a problem), both pedals are equally spaced from the centerline of the bike, and the realigned wheel is nearly symetrical also. If you want narrower bottom bracket, a new Shimano 113mm is about as narrow as you can go with a most Japanese cranks. If you have a Campy crank you will need a Campy bottom braket because the taper is slightly smaller. If you have a French crank you are on your own. BMX chianring bolts or short stack bolts are the same thing, but avoid alloy bolts for fixed gear. I use an old Campy quick release at the rear wheel for sentimental reasons but real nuts are the way to go. You can use any kind of clipless or toe clip pedals but look for good cornering clearance, and don't clip in until you've ridden a few miles. And put a brake on the front wheel!|| |