May 30, 2002 6:47 AM
|If you had a chance to set up a new rambouillet, what kind of components would you chose?
|What I did with my Atlantis...||retro|
May 30, 2002 7:24 AM
|...has very little bearing on your question, actually. But since money was a consideration, here's what I used. I generally took Rivendell's advice, and it's worked out absolutely perfectly in about 18 months/3000(?) miles; not one single complaint.
Wheels are Riv's Bontrager rims on midline Shimano hubs. I used some old wheels for awhile, but those are a good deal, strong and true and only a little heavy.
Crank is that Sugino triple (can't remember the model) in the Riv catalog with 46-36-26 rings, and it's the best decision I made on the bike. Unless you're WAY strong, I'd really urge you to think about abandoning the 53/39 tradition. Hardly anybody really needs 53 teeth. Cassette is 8-sp, 11-28.
Brakes are some midline Shimano cantis, cheap from Rivendell. I forget the model on those, too, but I think the Rambo uses sidepulls anyway, so you don't care.
The rest of the running gear is a combination of Shimano road and mountain stuff--Deore XT rear d., LX front d., DA barcon shifters. Saddle is Brooks B-17 (yes!). I used a tall Nitto stem from Riv to get the HUGE (50cm) Nashbar handlebars up level with the seat.
It's a fairly eclectic mix, all installed and adjusted by me, a barely average mechanic, and it works.
Some of my components were stuff I had around, and I was able to get the thing running for ~$1300 in "new" money. If I were buying a group from scratch for a Rambo, I think I'd either ask the Riv guys for recommendations (they were VERY helpful and knowledgeable) or else find the best deal I could on a 105 gruppo. But really consider that gearing.
|re: Rambouillet Components||gtx|
May 30, 2002 8:11 AM
|I'd probably go with new Ultegra with the new long reach dual pivots and bar end shifters and the previous generation Ritchey road cranks with the 110 bolt pattern. I'd set the bars at my normal height (ie much lower than the Riv position). 700x28 Contis, classic cinelli bars/stem, natural cork tape, Speedplay Frogs, etc.|
|re: Rambouillet Components||SteveS|
May 30, 2002 9:42 AM
|I am a fan of Rivendell and have their great looking lugged stem on my Mercian, but I am not a fan of the archaic parts Grant often pushes. I always hated toe clips and straps, so, if I were building a Rambo up, I would go with Campy Chorus shifters and mix and match otherwise to allow me to have a triple crankset. Don't know if Shimano dual pivots are compatible with Campy or would break the theme but they worked great last year on loaded touring in hilly Wales, so I like them. Rode my Spectrum last week with my Brooks saddle (Swallow in this case) and was suprised how well it matched my SST 2000 in comfort and much better looking. Headset, I like Chris King, but I have a Stronglight on the Mercian, both are excellent. And, after reading the good recommendations from Rivendell, I had a set of wheels built by Joe Young using Ambrosio rims. Lovely.
Have fun shopping.
|Well, having just done it...||Ray Sachs|
May 31, 2002 6:47 AM
|It really depends on what you're planning to use the bike for. It's versatile enough to give you some options. This is my supported tour, long ride bike where ultimate performance takes a back seat to comfort and reliability, so the following selections were made with that in mind. For a really performance oriented bike, I'd change several things.
I went with Ultegra/Open Pro 36-spoke wheels with Roly Poly tires, a 9 speed cassette, Shimano 9-speed barcons, an old set of RX-100 standard reach brakes, an XT rear derailure for when I want to stick a wide ratio cassette on it, whatever front derailure I had lying around (not sure whether I used a Suntour or Campy - gotta check). I have a Ritchey double crank on it with 34-48 rings and will probably put a triple on it for longer, hillier tours. Brooks B-17 saddle with an old Vitus setback seatpost. An old SR stem with Nitto dirt drop handlebars (the narrow ones they don't make anymore), and Shimano aero brake levers. Clip 'n strap pedals, but I'll probably change to clipless for tours. Black esge/sks fenders. And a bananna bag with the option of a large Carradice saddlebag for credit card touring.
A couple of notes. One, it's HARD to get the bars more than an inch or two below saddle level on this frame. Between the sloping top tube, headtube extension, and crazy lots of headset spacers, I have the bars about an inch below the saddle with only about an inch of stem showing on a 60cm frame with a saddle height of 76cm. You could cut down the steerer tube and take out some spacers if that was important to you. The geometry of these bikes is designed around the assumption of a rearward saddle position and high handlebars though, so I'm not sure what really low bars would do to the handling. Also, the rear brake bridge is located for maximum clearance and there isn't any slop at all. I couldn't get a set of Tektro standard reach brakes to work in back - the left pad would rub the tire at maximum adjustment. Only taking a file to the slot would have solved the problem. Even the Shimano brakes just barely clear it.
In another role, this bike would be really fun with a set of lightweight skinny tires, roadie components, and a light plastic saddle. I tried it that way for a couple of days, just to get a clean apples to apples comparison with my other road bikes. But I have other bikes set up like that and this one has a different job to do. Amazing ride either way though.
|A Heron build up P1, 2,&3 (long)||Steve Bailey|
Jun 2, 2002 6:34 PM
|Got my Heron road last year from a shop in the midwest. Love the frame, love the ride. My intention was (is) to replicate the STI shifting I have (and like) on my Klein Quantum while combining the versatility I get out of my Miyata tourer, such as; wider tires, comfortable ride on crappy roads, triple ring with good gear range, laid back geometry, longer wheel base, in short all of the reasons a person buy's a Grant Peterson designed bike.
The first build up attempted Ultegra triple shifting. I liked the rear shift, even though I didn't need 9 spd. but hated the front indexing system Shimano locks you in to. I could never get the front derailer aligned well enough to avoid chainrub on either the big and middle rings, nor to get the gear range I desired with the 30/42/52 crank.
I was very happy with the setup on my tourer - a 110BCD crank with 26/38/50 rings mated to either an 11-32 rear cog (LX rear derailer) or a 13-21, 8 spd. cassette shifted with bar-cons. The Ultegra system seemed to give up much that I liked and desired on the tourer, so goes it with Shimano these days.
I promptly returned the crank, shifters and b-bracket, keeping the derailers, going to a set of 8 spd bar-cons plus Ultegra aero brake levers and a 110BCD crank I already owned. This system shifted OK, but for some strange reason, never as good as either my Klein with STI nor my bar-con tourer. As I was using the Heron for every road ride (I love the riding position), I found myself missing STI in group rides.
I then played around one day with a bike equipped with a set of Campy shifters, immediately liking the semi-indexed front shifting. A good bit of internet research convinced me that a set of Ergo levers and a Campy rear derailer would work with a Shimano 9 spd cassette.
An order was placed with Sheldon, the conversion took about 2 hrs. and I was ready to roll.
My impression to date are that this un-orthodox combination is the best answer. The front shifter shifts the Ultegra triple fnt derailer flawlessly. The crank is a vintage Suntour XC Pro 110BCD with a 26/38/52 ring combo. I could as easily gone with a standard Ultegra/105 triple, swapping out the 42 for a TA pinned 38 ring, plus a 26 for a small.
The rear shifting is very good, certainly better then the bar-con system (go figure), and on par with the 8 spd. STI Klein, even though the Campy shifter is supposedly off by a millimeter or so over the range of cogs.
I am also very pleased with the design and feel of Campy, having no problems with the different design of the levers. FWIW, the brakes are long reach RSX (or RX100 or some such) with no problems related to spring tension. The braking is superb.
I think I finally have the bike where I want it.
|Brake reach on a Heron Road||Ray Sachs|
Jun 4, 2002 3:36 AM
|Sounds like a nice setup. Why the RX-100 standard (now considered long) reach sidepulls though - the bike is spec'ed for short reach (now pretty much the standard). I think there's about 1 mm of overlap between the two and Herons (and Rivs) are spec'ed for the very bottom of the slot with a short reach, so I guess a standard reach would work with the blocks at the very top of the slot. Is this how they're set up.
How clean are the rear shifts with the Shimano cassette? How wide a range is the cassette and which Campy derailure did you have to use?
|Brake reach on a Heron Road||Steve Bailey|
Jun 4, 2002 3:59 AM
|>Why the RX-100 standard (now considered long) reach >sidepulls
Beceause that's what I had. I had purchased these brakes for a build up of a vintage 27" bike using 700's and needed the reach. They work fine on the Heron although are not as pretty as modern Campy stuff.
>How clean are the rear shifts with the Shimano cassette?
>How wide a range is the cassette
Remarkably good. I was actually surprised at how crisp. An occassional added nudge up to the 21 on a 12-21 9 spd. and from the 12 to the 13. I think this is mostly a result of the very small spacing error that develops from the shifters using Campy 9 spd. spacing with a Shimano cogset. It's not a perfect match but does work very well none the less. The nice thing about Campy is you can finess the rear shift in either direction should the cable tension get
out of wack or get dirt in the system.
>which Campy derailure did you have to use?
I went with Centaur Ergo and rear derailer. Very nice setup. The rear cable tension gets aligned with the 4th smallest cog - as per Campy instructions
I'm very happy with the results. As I ride on mostly flat terrain (Long Island, NY), the near corn-cob rear works well, with the front rings giving me the range for just about any hill conditions.