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This is the kitchen cabinet-painting forum, right?(7 posts)

This is the kitchen cabinet-painting forum, right?Cory
Dec 22, 2003 8:58 AM
Somewhere out there is a cycling painter, or at least a painting cyclist, who can answer this:
I need to paint the 25-year-old, good-quality, dark wood-stained cabinets in my kitchen. I've done plenty of painting, so I'm cool on the importance of preparation. I'll dedicate the last week of 2003 to scrubbing and sanding.
But: Do I need to use oil-based paint for durability and scrubbability, or are modern acrylics OK? I'll be priming first, of course, then either two finish coats or (found this recommendation online) a "split coat" of half primer and half paint, with a final coat of enamel.
Opinions? Experiences? Anybody want to come by and demonstrate proper sanding technique?
I'll sheepishly 'fess up, Cory.sn69
Dec 22, 2003 9:04 AM I'm gonna blow my cover as a confused, inane rambling in-the-closet triathlete.....

Modern acrylic-based paints such as Valspar Traditions will look swell and prove quite durable even in the kitchen. Like you said, prep and priming are the keys in the kitchen (both due to the environment and the darly stained wood). In fact, I would prime seperately and then paint two complete coats of enamel. I did that in New Orleans with 62-year-old cabinets, and it worked out fine. Also, a good scrub down with Goo-b-gone or any other degreaser (NOT Park's or Pedro's) would be a good idea.

Good luck with the project,
Always watch Karate Kid for proper technique.......NMTri_Rich
Dec 22, 2003 9:08 AM
Acrylic is great.dr hoo
Dec 22, 2003 9:17 AM
Modern acrylic is much better than the old stuff, and except for a few (mostly exterior) applications, what most pros use.

It sounds like you are doing it right. The only thing to add is to paint the cabinets/doors like they were assembled. Pannels, then horizontals, then verticals.

Good luck! We painted our cabinets when we moved in (all mismatched, not all that nice), and it went pretty quick. After the sanding that is!
what's on there now?mohair_chair
Dec 22, 2003 9:29 AM
Reading your post, you say they are "dark wood-stained," which implies that they are "natural" in the sense that the wood grain shows through. And you want to paint them so the grain doesn't show through?

First, if the grain shows through you probably have a clear coat of lacquer, varnish, or polyurethane. I wouldn't sand it all down to the bare wood, but you have to sand it enough so that it is completely scratched up. Otherwise the paint won't bond. Sand out any imperfections and patch any dents and cracks, too.

I'd put at least two coats of primer on, and sand after each coat. Use 220 grit and don't use much pressure. You want to run it over the surface to take off any dust and bubbles so you get a perfectly smooth finish. Only dig in where you have to, to fix drips, for instance. Sanding between coats is the key to a good end result. Use a tack cloth to get all the sanding dust off before putting the next coat on.

For painting, I would use oil. Do the same as the primer. Put a coat on, then give it a light sanding and use the tack cloth. You can get a finish as smooth as glass if you put in enough time and effort.

One thing you might try is to use lacquer, and spray it. Cabinet and furniture makers love lacquer because it is easy to work with and dries really quick. Spraying it will save you hours over a brush and will result in the smoothest possible finish.
I love lacquer, but not for a kitchen.dr hoo
Dec 22, 2003 9:35 AM
Lacquer tends to be a bit fragile isn't it? Compared to other preps? For fine funiture, great, but for a kitchen where things get banged around a lot?

I don't have experience with it, so I could be wrong.
Depends. Generally no. You don't *need* to use oil. BUT!128
Dec 22, 2003 10:15 AM
If it takes a lot of abuse (bathroom ceiling, kitchen backsplash, door-kicks.) oil is best. But for cabinet doors:

Lightly scuff sand (no need to go nuts sanding, ever, scuff sanding in painting is just to rough up the undercaot and increas it;s surface area for better adhesion of top coat, not to remove whatever is being sanded), one coat oil-primer (b/c I'm guessing you got poly there- or chance it and go latex), 1 or 2 topcoats latex. That's the best case scenario.

I try NEVER to use oil unless I have to. You don't. (20 y/o cabinets v. my 200 year old plaster and lathe-which oil and vinegar help to re-constitute.)

Basic thing: water-based(latex) is very tough once it dries. EASY clean up. WONT kill you. Oil paint can have your nerves rattling for three days. oil is harder. Otoh a SEMI-GLOSS (recomended for this application) should be tough enough.

Need to know what's on top now. Probably poly. Not good. May need to be stripped b/f anything will adhere. Worst case.

You NEVER need 2 undercoats primer. Save materials.

Use TSP to clean. It helps rough the surface.

find good paint store guy. Ask questions.,17071,202424,00.html