|Workstand clamp too tall||B2|
Jan 12, 2004 1:53 PM
|I've got a Park PCS-4 workstand that works great except for one item. The clamp height is taller than I have seat post showing. I wouldn't consider my saddle height to be too low at 18cm above the top tube, but perhaps the seat rail clamp is a bit taller than usual. At any rate, its about all I can do to twist and wiggle, push and shove to get the seat post into the workstand clamp.
Other people must have this problem as well. There's probably not a "good" solution, but there must be something one could do to minimize the problem short of removing your seat post and installing a "dummy" post every time you want to throw your bike up on the stand. Any suggestions?
|re: Workstand clamp too tall||jimPz|
Jan 12, 2004 1:59 PM
|You don't have to remove your seatpost, mark the height with tape, a marker, or measure it, then raise the post enough to fit in the stans.
Jan 12, 2004 2:00 PM
|How 'bout this....loosen up the seatpost clamp, and expose a bit more seatpost?
Heck, you could even put a bit of tape on the seatpost to mark where it disappears into the frame, making it easier to put things back where they were once you are done.
|re: Workstand clamp too tall||Spiderman|
Jan 12, 2004 2:06 PM
|depending on what material frame it is, you could also clamp it on the seat tube or top tube, as long as you don't clamp it too tight, you might crush the tube.
you could also listen to the people above who posted
Jan 12, 2004 2:15 PM
|I have a PCS-5 stand, and have the same problem on one bike that I own. MTBs, with their long posts, work fine in my stand. Road bikes work less well. My main road bike barely fits, and another bike that I have will not fit at all. I gently clamp the bike by the downtube when I work on it - it's an older steel bike so I'm not too worried about doing this.|
|I wanted to avoid moving the seatpost, but......||B2|
Jan 12, 2004 2:53 PM
|I guess that's the only real option here. I've got the seat height dialed in pretty good and didn't want to risk messing with it. My seatpost doesn't slip, but I do have to crank it up pretty good so it doesn't. Doing this repetitively didn't sound appealing either, especially on a carbon post.
Thanks for the responses,
Jan 12, 2004 3:00 PM
|For just hanging the bike around, not needing to do any real work on it, just hang it by the nose of the saddle on the clamp. I usually do this.
I have the special Park tool that inserts into the seat tube and has a separte tube that goes in the clamp. This works very well, and is fairly quick to set up. It's rock solid, too.
While some frame tubes may be ok to clamp, beware, as on one of my bikes I did this and totally screwed up the paint. I thought I was being careful by using a rag under the clamp, but the rag had some kind of cleaner on it, and with pressure, it dissolved the paint down to the metal. Also, the clamp can loosen decals, which are held on only by a little clear coat, usually. So, if you want to avoid these problems, don't clamp the frame tubes.
|this is the one advantage of compact frames||gtx|
Jan 12, 2004 3:14 PM
|It's a non-issue for me with my heavy steel frames with good quality paint--I just clamp them by the seat tube. But if I had AL or carbon I'd definitely want a compact frame so I could easily clamp it by the seatpost. One way to avoid messing up paint/decals is to wrap the clamp with a soft shop rag. Then just select your clamping pressure very carefully--not tio tight but not too soft either. This should be fine for most simple adjustments, maintenance, etc. But if you're going to do major work on the bike--installing or removing a bb for example--I'd still clamp it by the post.|
|cut the clamp||Arnold Zefal|
Jan 12, 2004 4:06 PM
|if it really bothers you. it's routine to move the seat post but that can be a pain even if it's marked. if it's your stand and you're going to use it a lot modify it to suit your bike.|
|The Ultimate stand has a screw clamp||Dave Hickey|
Jan 12, 2004 4:28 PM
|I clamp the seat tube on carbon, aluminum and steel frames. I can easily adjust the tension because the clamp is a screw so the top tube is really just resting in the clamp. The only problems I have is installing bottom brackets. I can't get enough leverage with the stand so I use an old trainer that has a front wheel mount...|
|I use the same combination.||dzrider|
Jan 13, 2004 5:47 AM
|The trainer also works well for getting pedals off.
The bottom from a leg of an old pair of sweat pants over the clamp helps protect the frame when I clamp it in the stand.
|re: Workstand clamp too tall||Broomwagon|
Jan 12, 2004 6:17 PM
|Like others have suggested, just mark your position with tape on the seatpost and pull out enough to clamp. I have a Giant TCR with the aero seatpost that I have to pull out to insert an aluminum post for clamping.
BTW, has anyone read the last Cycle Sport? There's an article about the T-Mobile Giant TCRs that the team will be riding this year. The article has several pictures, one of which shows a mechanic working on a TCR Composite with the top tube clamped to a Park workstand--something I would never do.