|What's the best way to repair clearcoat?||Bonked|
Jan 1, 2004 3:17 PM
|I just bought a used bike off eBay that has a couple of belmishes on the clearcoat of the fork (see pic below). I know that I have read about people "fixing" problems like this, but don't recall how to actually do it. Any ideas?
|re: What's the best way to repair clearcoat?||Lone Gunman|
Jan 1, 2004 3:29 PM
|Someone will chime in if I'm wrong, I would say prep the area by wet sanding with 800-1000 grit paper so that the edge of the existing clear is not sticking up. Get some quality rattle can gloss or semi gloss clear and apply 3 coats or so to the effected area.|
|... the really long answer...||Akirasho|
Jan 1, 2004 3:47 PM
... I'd say Lone Gunman's pretty much got it... if the blems are purely cosmetic... that should about cover it.
BTW, I'm considering wet sanding the decals off a set of FSA Team cranks (want bare carbon sans logos) and refinishing with a clearcoat... anyone have any experience doing similar?
Be the bike.
|You go first:-)||Dave Hickey|
Jan 1, 2004 5:26 PM
|I'm going to do the same thing with my Weyless. I'll porbably try it this weekend|
|... if you do it this weekend...||Akirasho|
Jan 1, 2004 5:40 PM
|... you'll probably beat me to it!
I'm guessing that as long as you keep the grit fine, take your time and use lots of water... it should go off without a hitch.
I just want a cleaner aesthetic to go with the Ksano! The current FSA graphic kinda draws the eye compared to the rest of the frame. Ironically, Kuota makes a carbon crank that very much resembles both the Wey and FSA, and is graphically simple... but only comes in ISIS!
When I look at the Stella Azzurra version, I can't figure out how they can charge nearly $200 USD more than most FSA Team Issues and still sell them!
Be the bike.
|I just did it!!!||Dave Hickey|
Jan 1, 2004 6:28 PM
|It took all of 30 minutes. I started with 600 grit wet sanding to remove the logo and then went to 1000, 1500, and finally 2000 grit. All of the sanding was by hand and wet. There was still plenty of clear coat underneath so I go out a polishing compound( for clear coat car finishes). About 10 minutes on each arm and they look beautiful. I took pictures but my wife is using the computer I need to upload the pics. Give me an hour to wrestle her away.
My new LOOK 381 Jalabert is going to look sweet....
|... I'm not worthy...||Akirasho|
Jan 1, 2004 6:41 PM
|... I'm half tempted to head out to the local 24 hour Megalo Mart and pick up the fixin's... but I'll probably do better on a good night's sleep!
I'm sure your wife is a fine woman but, [b]get her the H&LL off the 'pooter and post them pics!!![/b]
Be the bike.
|Here ya go||Dave Hickey|
Jan 1, 2004 6:45 PM
|... you da man...||Akirasho|
Jan 1, 2004 7:03 PM
|... and she is a good woman!
Thanks for the pics... I'll be logoless on at least on crankset by noon!
Be the bike.
|Here ya go||Akirasho|
Jan 2, 2004 4:26 PM
... will probably work the surface over a couple more times with rubbing compound to bring up the shine. Oddly enuff, after removing the decals, I started thinking of anything custom I might add (name, nickname, etc)! If I were to add another decal, it'd be very simple and understated.
Will probably do the same treatment to my Weyless... not because I'm ashamed of them... but because the decals are a bit garish for my tastes!
Thanks for the heads up Dave Hickey!
Be the bike.
|Post pics!!!! nm||the bull|
Jan 1, 2004 6:21 PM
|Thanks for the feedback! Can you do the same with paint?||Bonked|
Jan 2, 2004 6:50 PM
|This thread got me thinking...there are a couple of blemishes in the paint as well, can you do the same (i.e. sand, paint, clearcoat) these as well? Also, do you just apply the clearcoat to a broad area of the frame or do you try to mask it off at all?
Again, thanks a lot!
PS - GREAT looking cranks.
|... generally, you'd ''feather'' the area...||Akirasho|
Jan 2, 2004 8:57 PM
|If you were to mask an area before applying clearcoat, you'd end up with a very defined high spot over which said clearcoat was applied... depending on how "professional" an appearance you'd want, you'd use a feathering technique... whereby, as you approach the edges of your workspace, you both decrease the amount of medium (clearcoat) applied while pulling away... thus lessening the transistion to the "unaffected" clearcoat. You could then go back with a light polishing compound to smooth the entire area.
This same technique could be used on painted areas... but the overall results would vary depending on your patience, equipment and skills. While I've never taken on a project the size of an entire frame, I do use airbrushes in other hobbies... and actually plan on custom painting some helmets in the near future (acrylic based paint).
Be the bike.
|so how do you keep the clearcoat from going everywhere||Bonked|
Jan 3, 2004 10:07 AM
|if you don't mask off the area. from the discussion above, it seems like i will be using clearcoat that comes in something like a can of spray paint, which doesn't exactly have a well-defined area in which it sprays. or does clearcoat come in something that has a more defined spray area? also, where do you get clearcoat...at a hobby shop?
again, thank you very much for all of your help.
Jan 3, 2004 10:51 AM
|... I was speaking of clearcoat in an aerosol form... either from a can or an air brush...
I did pick up an aerosol can of laquer clearcoat at an auto parts supply store just in case... and some will have specially designed nozzles to allow for detail work. Using an airbrush will be a bit more complicated cuz you'll have to thin the medium before spraying... and might have to experiment with the ratio.
Looking at your original pics, you'd only be working on a relatively small area... and a can should offer enough control... using rubbing compound if necessary to smooth the adjoining areas (a very very smooth paste... much finer than toothpaste).
I might go ahead and touch up the cranks with the spray to see if it makes a difference... at the worst (as long as I don't go krazy) I'd just rub off the new clearcoat!
Be the bike.
|so how do you keep the clearcoat from going everywhere||RemmingtonShowdown|
Jan 3, 2004 11:19 AM
|Best thing you can do is practice!! Get yourself comfortable using spray cans or an airbrish, sanding, and polishing. Once you feel confident you'll be able to handle any curveballs that come your way.
Just had another thought-- an easier, but albeit less "slick" solution would be to fill the chips with a clear epoxy, or plastic resin (both easily bought at hobby shop or Home Depot) then sand it down and polish it up. I'd stay away from spraying a new clear coat unless you intend to do the whole fork- it's much easier to match a finish by polishing rather than spraying.
Oh, just about anything you apply will try and bond with the existing clear coat-so do not try and rub off any excess!! (it's like getting model glue on the plastic windsheild of a model car!!!)
|Treat it like wood...||RemmingtonShowdown|
Jan 2, 2004 11:12 PM
|Seeing that the blemishes on your fork appear to be quite deep mask off everything except the blemished areas with contact paper (shelf liner). Then apply clear coat until the blemishes are filled, one would probally want build the area up a bit too. This will give you enough new clear coat to sand down and polish to match. Essentially it's the same as using wood putty on wood. If you do anything, please post pics-this seems to be an interesting discussion|
|Thank you all for your comments||Bonked|
Jan 4, 2004 8:38 PM
|After reading all of these, to get it perfect is probably well beyond my capacity, but I really just want to make it not so obvious. I will definitely take pics as I am working on this and post the results when I am done.