|Poll / Question.... What lube for...||gspot|
Dec 30, 2003 9:09 PM
|Road riding, specifically the winter / wet riding we have up here in the NE.
Also, what is a good lube for regular riding, not as much wet weather, or cold temps?
thanks in advance
|I'm not a lube swapper||pitt83|
Dec 31, 2003 5:07 AM
|I use Pedro's Extra dry year round on all my bikes. My opinion: Switching lubes without cleaning leaves residual crap on the chain which will gunk up, polymerize and attract grit. Personally, when I used Ice Wax, I saw a marked increase in dirty chains. If you're good about cleaning, why switch?
My regiment is to clean after every 6-10 rides and re-lube after every 3-5.
PS: I live and ride year round in southern CT.
|Slush Armor/Slick-N-Dry form Slick Willy||Doc Hollywood|
Dec 31, 2003 6:09 AM
|I live in in New England and have been using Slick Willy Slush Armor on my cross/commuter/wet ride bike and couldn't be happier. The stuff lasts forever, even in the wet, and my chain is nice and clean. If it gets any dirt on it, I just wipe it down. Shifting is nice and smooth.
For just dry conditions, their Slick-N-Dry version is outstanding. Like Slush Armor, the stuff lasts, is easy to apply, and doesn't attract dirt.
I have tried a lot of lubes over my years and Slick Willy, IMHO, is the best overall.
I think that you can buy it in several Boston Area shops. Here is a link to the www.slickwillylube.com website for more info.
|I use air-tool oil.||dzrider|
Dec 31, 2003 6:12 AM
|Works much like Tri-Flow or Finish Line Cross Country and costs $3.99 for a 12 ounce bottle. I use it often, and year-round on all our road bikes and the boys' mountain bikes. I find dry lubes to be cleaner but a poor choice in rainy weather.|
|I'm not a lube-hype sponge.||Mike Tea|
Dec 31, 2003 6:12 AM
|I've tried lots of the fancy lubes in varying conditions and most of them leave a "Hmmm" feeling because of something or other.
I'm now a home-brew lover and no, it's not perfect either but at least it's cheap and I'm not lining the pockets of the hype-of-the-month people.
Home brew - 50/50 mix of synthetic engine oil and mineral spirits. Put little on and wipe most of it off and it stays acceptably clean and lasts at least as long as anything I've tried - in all conditions too.
Why synthetic? I dunno, I'm not a scientist. All I know is that it works ok for me and the mix is a 1/10th the price of anything else.
|3 advantages by using synthetic oil in homebrew||Continental|
Dec 31, 2003 6:50 AM
|Synthetic motor oil has three advantages over mineral oil.
1. Higher film strength. Synthetic and mineral oils coat metal with a film of oil and prevent metal-to-metal contact to reduce wear and friction. Synthetic oils form a stronger film that protects metal better.
2. Lower viscosity. The synthetic oils are thinner than mineral oils and flow easier. They reduce friction better than mineral oil and also penetrate into small areas faster.
3. Slower oxidation. Conventional mineral oils oxidize and get sticky with exposure to air. This is accelerated by sunlight. Synthetic oils oxidize much slower.
|There ya go!||Mike Tea|
Dec 31, 2003 8:05 AM
|Thanks. I knew there had to be some reason for it being way more money - and I didn't think the hype factor would be allowed in something as regulated as engine oil types and grades.|
|Mineral spirits=paint thinner=toxic, highly flammable [stuff]?||commuterguy|
Dec 31, 2003 8:27 AM
|What exactly are mineral spirits? Aren't there some issues associated with how one handles them? Do you (or, perhaps, is it recommended) that you use substantial rubber gloves when you handle them (i.e., is dermal absorption an issue)?
I am pretty sure that methanol and mineral spirits are different things, but I've read that it is possible to absorb enough of the former through one's skin to go blind (or worse).
|Mineral spirits||Mike Tea|
Dec 31, 2003 8:47 AM
|On my container it just says "Paint or varnish thinner. Household cleaner. Harmful or fatal if swallowed".
Highly flammable? Probably it's somewhat flammable but most stuff that we use in everyday life is. Toxic? What isn't.
As a 30-year professional firefighter and a 10-year medical responder I can't remember one incident caused by paint thinner. No car or house painters have killed themselves on my shifts.
As any normal, prudent person would, I don't handle it any more than necessary (or at all) and take all reasonable precautions.
|No more than ethanol and I bet you drink that. nm||TFerguson|
Dec 31, 2003 10:14 AM
|I use ProLink year round....||commuterguy|
Dec 31, 2003 8:22 AM
|...even if that is so 2002. I recently changed my routine a little, with good results. I use an SRAM PC-89R chain, which is easy to get on and off the bike (thanks to the power link or whatever its called). Every month or so, I take the chain off, put it in a plastic soda bottle (or pop bottle if you prefer), add Simple Green and shake, rinse, and repeat, until the rinse cycle yields clean water. Then I dry the chain with clean rags and let it soak in Pro Link for a few hours. Invariably, even after the rigorous cleaning, this results in jet black Pro Link. It also results in a super clean and very well lubed chain that sheds dirt and water for quite a while. With a sparing reapplication of lube ever 200 miles or so I get very smooth shifting, long chain/cassette life and minimal mess when I have to deal with a flat rear tire.
BTW, this isn't my brainchild, but rather "Uncle Al's" from Roadbikerider.com, which I heartily recommend.
|ProLink works well (nm)||manicoti|
Dec 31, 2003 9:08 AM
|Another Prolink reccomendation ...||PEDDLFOOT|
Dec 31, 2003 4:16 PM
|...using basically the same routine as above.Works great.|| |