|**Help - back wheel coming off! **||grettm|
Dec 27, 2003 7:33 AM
|When it happened the first time, I chalked it up to being a loose quick release lever. However, it just happened again on my ride today.
Both times from a stop - when I start to pedal ( I believe with force - like when you cross and intersection) my rear wheel has slipped from the hanger (whatever you call that portion of the frame) and thus causing the wheel to ram into the brakes thus causing my rear wheel to lock up. THis is scary as hell! What if it happens when I am going very fast. I want to fix this. What could it be? Do I need a new skewer? I swear this time my QRL was locked and tight!
|re: **Help - back wheel coming off! **||ukiahb|
Dec 27, 2003 7:44 AM
|check if the axle is slightly too long or is not centered, with an equal amount sticking out beyond the locknuts...if the axle is not set up properly it is possible to have the QR clamp down on the axle end rather than on the dropout (or maybe on both at once), and if this happens it will feel as though the QR is tightening properly as you close it.|
|re: **Help - back wheel coming off! **||carpe_podium|
Dec 27, 2003 9:02 AM
|Are you using a titanium rear skewer? I personally haven't had good luck with the ti rear skewers. I had my wheel pop out on a climb - really sucked. This is one place you don't want to worry about saving weight. I would try a cro-mo skewer and see if the problem goes away. I switched mine and haven't any more slippage.|
|re: **Help - back wheel coming off! **||grettm|
Dec 27, 2003 9:22 AM
|No it is not TI. Not sure what it is. It is a stock C'Dale R600 (01).
|re: **Help - back wheel coming off! **||TWD|
Dec 27, 2003 1:03 PM
|The first thing I would do is check to make sure that your skewer isn't damaged. If it got overtightened at one point or another, it could be bent or damaged which could lead to the problem you are having.
It's interesting to me that this is happening on a Cannondale though.
A riding buddy of mine had a very similar problem with his Cannondale hardtail mtb which I think was an '00 or '01 model. His rear wheel was slipping in the dropouts to the point where the rear tire would rub on the chainstay. He tried different wheels, different skewers, and had the LBS put a new replaceable derailluer hanger/dropout on his frame.
The new hanger helped for a little while but it came back shortly after. You could see the grooves in the paint of the droupouts that the locknuts on the rear axle weren't contancting the droupout squarely (deeper grooved on top vs. bottom).
The LBS checked the frame alignment and it was off, but not much out out normal spec. In the end the LBS ended up warrantying his frame....kinda. They took his old frame in trade for a newer model at their cost. I think this was the shop standing by a long term customer rather than an official Cannondale warranty.
According to that LBS, this wasn't an isolated occurence on those frames. My friend's brother had the same frame (model and year) which had the same problem, and they offered him the same deal.
They never did find out what the real cause was though. I'm guessing that it's either a poorly desinged droupout, or the dropouts aren't aligned parralel vertically, so that the axle lock nuts aren't contacting squarely.
What I would do if I were you, is start by trying a different skewer. Shimano skewers are pretty tough and strong. Hopefully that will solve your problem. It may not though, since if it's slipping to the point that your wheel is locking up, the grooved surfaced of the hub locknut have probably put some pretty deep grooves into the soft aluminum of your dropouts. Each time it happens those grooves get deeper and make it all the easier to slip the next time.
If it continutes, I would take it to a Cannondale dealer and ask them to check out your frame alignment. If you have a really good relationship with your LBS they might help you out. Maybe not. Who knows.
Until you get it figured out, I wouldn't dart out in front of any traffic, or do any sprinting.
|An interesting problem...||SenorPedro|
Dec 27, 2003 2:30 PM
|From the first posts I thought you might have semi-horizontal dropouts, but being a newer c'dale, then that is pretty much eliminated.
I had a similar problem with an older steel bike of mine that had the horiz. DO's, in which the wheel would pull out under sprints or high power climbs. I tried tightening the QR to the point that it was physically painful for me to push it closed. Still happened, regardless of different QR's, etc.
I found a set of bolt on skewers at Nashbar and put one in the rear, this solved my problem. It may seem unpractical, but I never really remove my rear wheel unless it is for maintanence or I have a flat. These skewers use a common 5mm hex on one side and a knurled nut on the other like a standard QR. The beauty is that you can really apply some torque to the hex bolt, far more than you could apply with just a quick release lever.
This should help to hold that wheel in there, it doesn't weigh anymore than a standard QR, and can be removed just as easily ( you should have that size allen on you at all times IMO ). Plus, I think they actually look pretty cool.
|Bet your using a light weight QR from a boutique wheel...||TFerguson|
Dec 27, 2003 4:03 PM
|When I first started using a set of Rolf Vectors (with the Rolf QRs), I would pull the wheel out no matter what I did. Replaced them with a pair of standard Shimano (Campy also works) where the lever comes out the side, and end of problem.
I am assuming that you have horizontal drop outs, or semi-horizontal. If you are pulling them out of a vertical drop out, there must be a much more serious problem.
|Change the skewer||Lone Gunman|
Dec 27, 2003 4:15 PM
|Had this problem with Rolf wheels and my Lemond. Put American Classic skewers on and never had the problem again.|
|Skewers, most likely:||Dave_Stohler|
Dec 27, 2003 4:19 PM
|I'm betting that the skewers don't have a decent STEEL serrations on the acorn nut, but rather have a 1-piece aluminum nut. Look at this picture:
What you need is the type of skewer nut seen on the right- the type which has a good STEEL insert. If you want more info, go here: