|Got some great ideas on my fit. Appreciate all the help...||Mr Nick|
Oct 13, 2003 2:53 PM
|and I wanted to address some of the comments. It seems first that I have to learn to tilt my pelvis. This was a universal comment, so I will actively be working on that.
The flatter saddle idea raised is interesting because I really don't like the one I have, but as someone pointed out it is also very expensive.
One person thought my frame looked small and asked my inseam and bike size. It is a 57cm bike and I have an 86cm inseam. Does this mean my bike is too small? I have done some of the online programs that you enter in all you information and they also put me on a bike right around that size. But the guy who did my fit isn't the greatest so I wouldn't doubt if I got screwed. If the frame is slightly too small, is it ok to fix it with the stem and seat? Am I doing my self a huge injustice?
As for the stem angle, it is severe and something that I have wanted to change. I had it put on right away and already I am more flexible and could handle something else. The only problem with flipping it is that it is that I get about 9cm of drop between my seat and bars when I do (and that is with all those spacers). This is a little much for me, especially since I am only at about 4.5cm of drop currently.
Lastly I got mixed opinions about how far off my fit is. Some thought it needed just a little tweaking and some proper posture on my part. Do think it is possible that I could live without the profit and instead spend the money on a saddle?
Thanks again for all the help, this is a great resource.
|dont ask for advice||ishmael|
Oct 13, 2003 3:11 PM
|are you comfortable? if so fine.|
Oct 13, 2003 3:24 PM
|Did the shop set up your tires like that? Shame on them...
Anyway, what is the original "problem" you are/were experiencing? Pain? Discomfort?
If this is a NEW bike, you might have a 30-day return policy if they sold you a bike too small- but it is very possible you aren't accustomed to a road fit. How tall are you anyway?
|I was asking people to look at several factors...||Mr Nick|
Oct 13, 2003 5:33 PM
|I have had the bike since May and I am 6'2" tall. I have messed with the fore and aft and seat height and have had problems with my hands. Mostly I sent the pictures in to see how my reach was since I moved my seat back 2cm. I received a lot of good pointers on tecnhique as well which are important for me since this was my first bike.|
|Bike is too small...||crosscut|
Oct 13, 2003 8:43 PM
|I'm 6'-1/2" and I ride a 58. I have a 85cm inseam. I think the LBS got you on this one. Often, if they have a particular bike they want to move, it is "fitted" to the next available customer eager to make a purchase. At your height, you should probably be on a 59.|
|Bike is too small...||hinaults dog|
Oct 14, 2003 3:10 AM
|crosscut have you ever fed your
height/inseam measurements into
an online sizing tool (wrenchscience etc)
I know these things tend to be
subjective but i am of similar height/inseam
and these tools size me a 56cm c-t (although i
ride a 57).
|Tire labels (side bar)||CritLover|
Oct 13, 2003 5:39 PM
|Just a side note-
Why do people think that lining up tire labels is so important? Why is it necessary to have it lined up to the valve in order to check for material still in the tire? It's easy enough to do without having them lined up, I mean, how much does your tire move when you're training a flat? Or is there some other reason to do this that I am unaware of?
Just curious- (and no, my shop NEVER lines up the tire labels with the valves)
|Yes please explain this...||Mr Nick|
Oct 13, 2003 6:16 PM
|I have never heard of this, I thought filtersweep was making a joke on the cosmetics. But it doesn't make sense, why would it matter if a tire, being equal all the way around, was in one position relative to the valve compared to another? Does the spot in the tire under the label have different properties?|
|He was making a joke about an irrelevant stereotype...||baylor|
Oct 13, 2003 8:51 PM
|don't worry about your tire labels. Some will say that having them in a predictable setup will help you identify the cause of flats. Fuggetaboudit.
Back to your fit.
|It's just a road bike tradition||irregardless|
Oct 13, 2003 7:09 PM
|another reason for hard core roadies to make fun of you if you don't conform. The only legitimate reason for it that I ever heard was so that if you have a flat, and you take the tire off and find a hole in the tube, you know from way the tire was mounted in relation to the tube where the tire was probably punctured, or where the debris that cause the puncture is located inside the tire.|
|It was (is?) also a mountain bike racing tradition||NatC|
Oct 13, 2003 9:05 PM
|but in that case, it was so one could locate the valve a second more quickly in case of a flat. Remember, in mtb racing you have to fix your own flat without any outside assistance. Nothing worse than trying to quickly fix your bike trailside while the entire pack is racing by you.|
|Tire labels (side bar)||russw19|
Oct 14, 2003 1:25 AM
|This is an old school thing.. but it is really unimportant other than for aesthetics and making old school roadies happy. Tubular tires always have the tire label right over the valve. That's where the trend comes from. But the reasons people do it are this: 1st, it makes finding a piece of glass in your tire easier once you find the hole in your tube if you know the tube-tire orientation. If the valve lines up with the label, and the hole is opposite the valve on the tube, then the hole is opposite the label on the tire. 2nd it just makes it that much easier to find how much PSI your tire will take. Traditionally (and this has changed over the past 10 years) tire companies put the recommended and max pressure info right on the tire's label. If it was lined up with the valve hole, it was easy to see and read when you went to pump up your tires. That's all. Those are the reasons. Also many mechanics will always put the label to the drive side of your bike. That way, when it's in the stand, you can read the tire label, as many mechanics' last step is to pump up the tires of the bike they are working on.
This is just one of those things that older roadies do. The trend is more lost on mtb guys and gals because tires that are unidirectional do not always have the label on the drive side. I think Panaracer was the first tire company I ever saw to buck this trend. With the front specific Dart mtb tire, the label was on the non-drive side when properly installed.
And at the shop I work at, I am the only person who takes the time to line up tire labels. But I am the oldest employee there outside of the owner and have been working at shops for as long as our other 3 mechanics combined. (I am 30 and have been working in shops since I was 14) the other guys are too young and all have a mtb background, so they just don't care.
|Aesthetics, attention to detail, convenience?||Fez|
Oct 14, 2003 7:35 AM
|Why is it a big deal? It probably isn't.
But it makes flat repair easier, it looks better, and it makes reading the tire label info easier as opposed to if the tire was installed totally at random and you had to rotate it and read both sides until you found the info.
Its more of a pet peeve for me. Most road tires nondirectional (can be mounted either direction) but I line them up so the logo is over the valve stem and the tire info is on the drivetrain side.
|It just shows that whoever did it cares...||TFerguson|
Oct 14, 2003 8:02 AM
|As a wheel builder I notice:
Valve hole between parallel spokes.
Hub label lined up with valve hole and readable from saddle.
Tire label in the right side with manufacturer's name line up with valve hole.
Tube manufacture's name to the right of valve hole when viewed from the right side.
Sometimes these can't be done, but when possible I think consistency makes things easier and shows that the builder/mechanic cares.
|That's about the size of it... nm||MShaw|
Oct 14, 2003 9:13 AM
|That's about the size of it...||MShaw|
Oct 14, 2003 9:14 AM
|I didn't think so...||NatC|
Oct 14, 2003 9:44 AM
|until years ago someone told me about those subtleties. Now I do notice such attention to detail, but it is kind of inconsequential, don't you think? Other than *maybe* having the valve in between parallel spokes, none of the things you mentioned truly affect performance or function. I guess little attentions to detail is what sets apart the connoisseur from the consumer though.
I also like to have the stem top-cap and handlebar end plugs lined up just-so.
|About those spacers...||DERICK|
Oct 13, 2003 4:11 PM
|Rather than flip the stem and have a large change all at once you can remove spacers one at a time. Just remove the stem, take off a spacer, put the stem back on and place the spacer on top before you put the cap back on. You can do this with as many spacers as you want.
This way you can play around with the rise without replacing the stem or cutting the fork.
|Heck with fit, how did you get your shoes to glow :) (nm)||Kerry Irons|
Oct 13, 2003 4:12 PM
|Some thoughts after reading this thread...........||Len J|
Oct 14, 2003 3:53 AM
|1.) Tweaking the fit of a bike that is too small with stem is OK. Only when the frame is dramatically off will it cause problems.
2.) Are you sure about your inseam? I am slightly under 6'0" and have an 88cm "Bike" inseam. This is not the same as your pants inseam. Basically it's the distance from your pubic (or sit) bones to the floor. To do this properly, you must pull a book or level up between your legs (with your feet about 6 to 8 inches apart) until it hits bone, make sure the level is level & then measure from the top of the level to the floor. I would bet yours is closer to being over 90.
3.) I would try to swap saddles with a riding buddy if money is an issue. Most roadies have a few saddles lying around. you can try it & then buy it cheap.
4.) I can't tell from a few pictures how bad your fit is, nor can most internet posters. How comfortable are you? We all like to make a hugh dealo about fit, but at the end of the day, fit is about comfort and efficiency. There are two ways to get a great fit. Get professionally fit (which will usually get you damn close) ride for a while and then tweak the fit until you get into that comfort zone, or buy a bike that is close to your size (Based on accurate body measurements) and then tweak until you hit that comfort zone. Only you can listen to what your body is telling you. Remember, as you tweak, be patient & only make one change at a time & never make more than a milimeter change at a time. You don't want to either make too dramatic a change (which can cause injury) or get impatient & change several things at once (Because then you can't tell which one works). If I were you, I'd go to another shop, and ask to pay for a "Quick" fitting. Someone with a good eye can spend 15 minutes with you & tell you where you are off.
Oct 14, 2003 4:22 PM
|I am 6'0" and ride a 59cm Lemond which I find to be very comfortable. I tried the 57cm frame and felt it was too small for my tastes. The right size frame for you can very up or down depending on your fitness level, riding style, and physical attributes. If if feels good to you, then don't worry what other people say. Experimenting with different stems, spacer stacks, and seats is all part of bicycling as a hobby. It's fun to try different things. What you like and dislike will chance in time. One bike, in one configuration, isn't going to meet your needs forever. Experiment, learn, grow better as a biker, and buy new components and bikes on a regular basis!!|| |