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Can someone help me measure real quick?(6 posts)

Can someone help me measure real quick?Eric F
Sep 23, 2003 3:08 PM
I am about to buy a Bianchi Campione from the classifieds if it fits me. It is a 55 inch. What measurements should I make so you guys can tell me if it will fit pretty good. Once I get it I can swap the stem at my LBS if I need too. I just want to make sure I am gonna be pretty good on the frame though. thanks

a link to a page detailing how to measure myself would be awesome
Check wrenchscience.com for fit info....bent_spoke
Sep 23, 2003 3:30 PM
also the frame is 55cm and the Bianci site is
http://www.bianchiusa.com/site/bikes/31_Campione.html for geometry & etc Good luck.
Check wrenchscience.com for fit info....Eric F
Sep 23, 2003 3:40 PM
where do I look on wrenchscience.com

all I can find is how to custom build a bike.

and the inches was a typo. I meant cm. 55 inches would be the largest bike ever
re: Can someone help me measure real quick?bc165
Sep 23, 2003 3:55 PM
Check out this link at Colorado Cyclist. Their system worked real well for me when I measured myself for my purchase...
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/
Don't be real quick, be thoroughKerry Irons
Sep 23, 2003 4:14 PM
http://www.bsn.com/cycling/ergobike.html
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/BikeFit/index.cfm
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harart-frames.html
http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/frameinfo/Frame_Sizing.htm
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm

For adjusting the fit of the bike, there are roughly five starting points:

1. Seat height (top of saddle to center of pedal axle) at 108-110% of inseam.
2. Saddle parallel to ground.
3. Saddle fore/aft adjusted so that a plumb bob from the bony protrusion just below the kneecap passes through the pedal axle when the cranks are horizontal. This is known as KOPS (Knee Over Pedal Spindle)
4. Front hub axle obscured by the handlebars when riding in your "regular" position (drops, hoods, or tops).
5. Top of handlebars 1 to 4.5+ inches below the top of the saddle depending on your flexibility and size.

These are all starting points for "average" proportioned people, and many folks like to move away from these starting points as they learn what makes them more comfortable, powerful, or efficient. You want to get the fit of the frame as close as you can, then do minor adjustments with the stem, seat post, saddle position, etc.

A lot of this is personal comfort, and we all tend to adapt to a given position over time. For example, a given stem length may be right for you, but it may feel long at first. I use the "handle bar obscures the front hub" rule for my fit, but others claim better position (for them) with the hub in front of or behind the bar. I'm 6' tall and ride with 11.5 cm drop from saddle to bar, probably more than most people would like but fine for me. Some are suggesting zero drop from saddle to bars - it's about comfort, efficiency, and aerodynamics. The ERGOBIKE calculator is pretty good, but it is not infallible. I would suggest riding some miles (over 100 total, and over 500 would be better) and see if you adapt to the position. There are no hard and fast rules, just general guidelines, when it comes to these things.

Just as important as your size is your flexibility. If you have a stiff lower back, you may not be able to lean over and stretch out as much. If you are very flexible, you may get away with a longer top tube, with the stem in a lower position. Over time on the bike, too, you may become more limber, or at least become accustomed to being lower and stretched out. So, your first 'real' bike may not be anything like what you will want 5 years from now.

Someone new to road riding is highly unlikely to find their ultimate position on the first go. As they become accustomed to the riding position and get some miles in, sometimes over several seasons, people often find their desired position changing. What was "stretched out" now feels OK, or what was "just right" now feels cramped. With time, if you are working on your position along with all your other riding stuff, seat position tends to rise, handlebars tend to be farther below the saddle, saddles tend to move rearward, and handlebars tend to be farther forward from the saddle. You simply cannot say "this is the right position for someone of your body dimensions" because there are too many variables and things that change with time. Get used to your position, and then occasionally make small changes: raise/lower your saddle, move your saddle forward/backward. Ride a while with the changes (a few 100 miles, anyway) and decide if it is better or worse. If it is better, keep moving in that direction. If it is worse, try moving the other direction. If you don't try, you won't find out, but it is a long term process, often taking years, to really dial in your position. And since your strength and flexibility are changing with time, it is reasonable that your position would need to change also.
www.cyfacusa.comC-40
Sep 23, 2003 5:38 PM
This site has great details on measuring for the proper fit.

Start by measuring your cycling inseam from the floor to hard crotch contact in bare feet. A rough guide for frame size is standover clearance. The standover height of a properly sized frame will be 3-5cm less than you cycling inseam.