|Cheapo Truing Stand From Spare Fork?||mdehner|
Sep 8, 2003 9:26 AM
|Curious whether any of you have adapted a fork for use as a crude truing stand and, if so, what suggestions for setup and use can you offer?
|A couple of suggestions...||Marketing Dept|
Sep 8, 2003 9:44 AM
|I first have to suggest that for less than $60.00 you could most likely buy a quality used one. I bought a shop Park stand with dishing and spoke tools for $75.00.
But, if you just want to invent something from the spare parts box, here is what I had done.
Take a 2x10 board and create a base. What you would wind up with is a shoebox in which you would drill a 1" hole in the one of the solid surfaces. This is where you put stearing tube of the fork.
Cut the stearing tube to about 2-3", after you thread it all the way down. Insert the tube and use the headset nuts to fix it to the base.
The Truing Calipers
Measure a mountain bike wheel and a road bike wheel from the axle to the rim. Take those measurements to the fork.
Measure from the drop out to the desired distance (the axle to the rim measurement) and drill a hole in each fork.
From the hardware store, pick up some 3" number 16 screws. Buy the nuts to go with them and also pick up those nuts that have caps on them. I don't know what they are called, but they will be placed on the end of the screw once installed into the fork legs. These will provide a smooth surface for the out of true rim to rub against.
So, now for $12.00 you have a decent stand.
Good luck and post a pic when you are done!!
|They're called cap nuts or acorn nuts...nm||bicyclerepairman|
Sep 8, 2003 2:48 PM
|re: Cheapo Truing Stand From Spare Fork?||Chen2|
Sep 8, 2003 9:53 AM
|I like the idea of improvisation, but how are you going to get the rear while to fit in a fork? With road bikes, the rear wheel has a 130mm spacing and the front has a 100mm spacing.
|re: Cheapo Truing Stand From Spare Fork?||eddie m|
Sep 8, 2003 10:06 AM
|I made truing stand that way. I used an old handlebar/stem as the base, and I filed out and spread the dropouts of a second fork to use with rear wheels. I bought a couple of used dial indicators instead of a caliper, so I can measure down to 1/1000 of an inch. For about $25 I have a stand that is accurate as any pro stand, although it takes a little time to set up.
I also use a table, a couple of blocks and a vernier caliper to measure dish. It takes a little longer than what the pros do, but it's just as accurate.
Sep 8, 2003 11:19 AM
|But instead of using a dishing tool I just reverse the wheel on the stand to center the rim.
|Good Stuff!||eddie m|
Sep 8, 2003 12:11 PM
|I tried that, but with my set up with dial indicators it was too easy to put the dials off their original position. The table works way better, unless you have a pretty rigid wheel stand.|
Sep 8, 2003 2:27 PM
|I was thinking about how I center a rim on my TS-2 truing stand. Your set-up is different so my comment didn't apply. And I think you have a good set-up.
|In a Pinch||Fred Fredricks|
Sep 8, 2003 10:03 AM
|Remove computer, turn bike upside down.
Tighten brakes until rubbing. True side to side until brakes don't rub.
You can also remove the tire and adjust the up & down runout by holding a piece of cardboard across the rim to find high and low spots.
If you are worried about scuffing your brake hoods or seat put something down on the floor first.
I have built and rebuilt wheels with this method with less than 1/2 mm side to side or up and down.