|1 lb question||the greek|
Aug 25, 2003 8:17 AM
|how much difference does one lb "really" make on a road bike?
I'm looking a 2.7 lb al. frame vs. a 3.6 lb al. frame with carbon seat stays. The lighter frame is about $100 more expensive.
Aug 25, 2003 8:34 AM
|I've always said that if a cyclist wants to ride lighter, the best way is to lighten the motor. That being said, yes, it does make |
a difference. Especially on a long ride with some hills. You may not notice a difference on a ride around the block, but you would after 3-4 hours in the saddle.
Keep the rubber side down.
|agree and disagree....||Steve_0|
Aug 25, 2003 10:03 AM
|I agree it's best to lighten the motor. I always question they 5-9" 220lb guys on a sub-17# bike.
anywhoo, I disagree that you would ~necessarily~ notice a dif after 3-4 hours on 'some hills'. Perhaps if you're trying to keep up with your friends uphill. If the hills are called 'the rockies', definately.
|Marketing allure of sub-3 lb frame||Continental|
Aug 25, 2003 9:44 AM
|I'd consider a 2.7 lb frame as stupid light, meaning stiffness, strength and durability have been comprimised for the marketing allure of a sub-3 pound frame.
Only if saving a few seconds a 1 hr climb are critically important does it make sense to shave weight on the frame down below 3 lbs. I'd say that even the 3.6 lb frame is probably a bad compromise for 95% of riders.
Aug 25, 2003 10:30 AM
|two questions: how heavy are you and how durable do you want this frame to be? A 2.7 pounds frame could be an awesome one season frame for a 135 pound rider!|
Aug 25, 2003 10:44 AM
|how many of you have had a frame fail? Let's say an actual weld, bond, braze, tube, strucural failure. I'm heavy, I ride really hard, and I've never broken a frame.
If you have, what kind of constuction was it? OCLV, brazed steel, bonded alu., or welded?
Aug 25, 2003 11:14 AM
|I haven't--I've always ridden heavy steel and I don't weigh much. Working in shops from 1984 - 1995 I saw a lot. Does that count? Some top contenders: Vitus or Alan bonding issues, various lugged Italian frames in the 80s breaking from being overheated, Kleins cracking (lots in the early 90s), C'dales cracking, Bianchi Boron steel or AL cracking, OCLV bonding issues (usually fairly minor dropout or cable guide stuff but annoying for the owners nevertheless), Keith Bontrager used to have mtb dropouts that broke a lot (though he designed them for easy repair and had the quickest warranty turn around in the biz). These new super light AL frames are probably fine until you get a small ding or something from a minor crash, but then it can only be a matter of time before they fail...|
|Don't forget about lost stiffness for bigger riders (nm)||Sprint-Nick|
Aug 25, 2003 1:47 PM
Aug 25, 2003 11:22 AM
|You want to know the difference 1 lb can make on the frame.
I'll assume you aren't racing at a high level and this bike is for fun or training use. Assuming similar stiffness, will 1 lb make a difference? Probably a little, but its hard to quantify what exactly that is. If it were me, I would choose whichever one rides more comfortably. Even if the heavier one is more comfortable, I guarantee the comfort would more than overcome the weight penalty.
P.S. And I agree that 1 lb off of your body is also another avenue to pursue.
|None for most people||bimini|
Aug 25, 2003 11:27 AM
|At most peoples riding level and weight, none. I'm 180# and race some at cat 5. Dropping 1 # of weight around the gut is a lot cheaper than dropping 1# off the bike. But, if you have a pound of bills to spend on a light frame, go fot it.
If your Lance, or a sub 140# pro/cat 1 racer. One pound off the bike is a big deal. The only weight they have to loose is mussle and the top riders get new bikes for free.
|Go for it!||TNRyder|
Aug 25, 2003 5:41 PM
|Only $100 more to drop a pound! Call me a weight weeny but go for it!
Seriously though, go with the frame that feels the most comfortable to you. What good is a superlightweight frame if it rides so harsh that you don't want to ride (Motobecane). just my .02!