|Road Bike for Intermediate?||McBaine|
Jul 20, 2003 3:35 PM
|I'm an experienced mountain biker getting into road riding after moving to the flats. Right now I'm riding 100 miles a week on an old Raleigh Technium. I'm not happy with a touring setup at all. The stem shifters make it hard to shift properly to keep cadence up and the bike weighs alot. I was hoping for some suggestions on road bikes an intermediate should consider. Obviously I'll have it professionally fitted but I'd like the lightest ride I can afford. I shy away from steel due to weight and don't think I can afford all ti or all carbon so I tend to think aluminum or aluminum/carbon combo. I want a bike my abilities won't out grow. I tend to demand high performance from my sports equipment so I'm thinking Campagnolo Chorus or Shimano Ultegra. With a range of $2,000-$2,500. I will likely do 20-30 mile rides and work up from there. I am 5'7'' 154 lbs.|
|A rich crop of choices in that range||Scot_Gore|
Jul 21, 2003 5:52 AM
|With the criteria you've given there's so many good choices it would be hard to narrow it down. Provide more information about the kind of rider you are.
1) Will you commute ?
2) Do you need to carry gear ?
3) Are you considering racing ?
4) Do you think you will want to ride centuries regularly once you've got the miles on your legs ?
5) Moved to the flats...how flat ? Need a triple or no ?
6) Stock bike desired or frame and fork wih a self build ?
7) Any personal geometry leanings (standard vs compact)
With out any other information, here's my two cents. My LBS has a Dura Ace Specialzed Allez for $1999.99. It's a go fast racing bike, that can't carry any gear, that most would recommend be used for short to med. distance riding close to home.
Hope that helps
|Thanks for your input. Here's more about me.||McBaine|
Jul 21, 2003 1:30 PM
|I won't be commuting. Its unlikely that I'll race formally but I want a bike on which I can challenge myself speed wise without the machine holding me back. I will be riding primarily for fun and fitness in Illinois which is relatively flat but I do need to change gears to maintain cadence. If I move or travel to the mountains I'd like the choices a triple would offer. I won't want to build the bike myself but if I don't like the groupo on a bike I'll want the shop to upgrade at the time of purchase. I guess diversity in the bike's use may be important since I would like to do centuries in the future but I have never rode anywhere near that far. I don't see carrying lots of gear. Also, since I have an old Raleigh Technium touring bike I guess I could use that if I had the need to carry lots of gear. Currently my rides tend to be 20 miles but I'd like to lengthen that significantly. To give you an idea where my abilities are I'm relearning how to spin at 90-100 rpms after years of pedaling slow squares on mountain bike trails in Colorado. I plan to add intervals to regime in the future. I appreciate your input. You're right, there are a lot of bikes out there which is why I wanted to narrow down the selection I'll test right.
What are your thought's on composite? My mountain bike is composite and I find the frame noisy. I want light so I was thinking aluminum.
Jul 22, 2003 2:46 PM
|Based on what you say, Bikes I'd look at are
1 My original recommendation, The Spec Allez Pro
2) Giant TCR Composite (might blow your budget, almost any composite will)
3) Trek 5200
That will give you 3 materials. If are willing to add steel back into the mix, the Lemond Maulot Juane (sp?) would be a good choice or the Orbea Gavia or the Allez CroMO. Your also into the intro Ti price point, but I've not looked at any Ti bikes.
These are all big brands. If you want something more unique look at Orbea AL line or Look
Jul 22, 2003 3:37 PM
|Have you heard anything about Trek 2300, Litespeed Hyperion, Bianchi XL Ev3 AL/Carbon or SL3, or Cannondale R2000? I'm wondering if my choices might be limited if I want to get a bike from a nearby shop for easier service/maintenance.|
|All fine bikes||Scot_Gore|
Jul 23, 2003 7:05 AM
|Those are all fine bike. My recollection says that your above list cuts across a big price range. This is my memory here, so pardon if I've got it wrong, but the 2300's a 105 level bike in the lower 1000 range and the R2000 is a Ultegra(+) level bike in the lower 2000's, right ?
Generally, you WILL get what you pay for. The more expensive bike will be lighter, and have more responsive (but not nessasarily more dependable) components.
Like I said in the first post, you have a rich crop of GOOD choices. Ride a bunch of bikes and let your arse tell you which one is best....and have fun doing it.
Also, beyond inseam and there's a whole crop of other fit related issues to get yourself famliar with. Top tube lenght, slack, rake, KOPS, just to name a few. Read stuff....develop opinions and buy a bike based on them. If you're willing to read and learn before you buy, start with these http://www.sheldonbrown.com/, http://www.roadbikerider.com/ , and http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/html/reader.html
Rivendell has the reputation for being "old" school or "retro", but if your going to form good opinions you need all sides of a topic.