|ok you went for a ride and your freehub failed..||cyclopathic|
Jul 2, 2003 3:43 PM
|somewhat 80mi to your car. How do you patch it? Which tools/parts would you carry? what would use? /no spare freehub allowed/.|
|re: ok you went for a ride and your freehub failed..||Humma Hah|
Jul 2, 2003 3:52 PM
|You don't specify the failure, but I'm guessing its failing to engage forward. Now, I'm a freewheel kinda guy, and don't know much about these new-fangled freehubs, but I'm betting there's a way to jam something in the works so its a fixie. A GEARED fixie, but a fixie.|
|Why do you have to ride to a car??||char|
Jul 2, 2003 8:08 PM
|I thought you was riding a bicycle...
Coast on the downhills
3-4 days to the car.
Consider it a "forced vacation."
I wouldn't coast/push/pull a bicycle to a car but plan an alternative destination.
|Car? I didn't say anything about a car? (nm)||Humma Hah|
Jul 3, 2003 6:16 AM
|Depends on failure type||Kerry Irons|
Jul 2, 2003 4:31 PM
|If it's a loose lock ring, you need to find a bladed screwdriver (or misc. shoulder scrap) and use it to tighten the ring by using it like a punch. Won't get the ring very tight, but tight enough to go a ways before you have to tighten it again. If it's failure of the pawls to engage, see if you can find a store that has WD-40 (or other solvent) to try to flush things out, hoping it's not a spring failure. If it's a spring failure, try to pedal so as to match coasting speed and get the pawls to engage by gravity, then never let up on pedal pressure. My '98 Record hub has three independent springs, so this kind of failure could never happen with that design. BTW, how exactly did you get 80 miles from the car? Super long day or are you doing park 'n ride touring? Most likely fix is to try to hook a ride either back to your car or the nearest bike shop.|
|failure to engage||cyclopathic|
Jul 2, 2003 4:41 PM
|happened to friend of mine on 600km brevet with 80mi to go.
This also happened to me winter before last grease froze. Luckly only a couple miles from the car. Hub worked fine as soon as brought indoors. I walked back (damn Look cleats)
|what happens on a 600km is really incredible....||PeterRider|
Jul 2, 2003 5:57 PM
|how come nothing happened to me, was I too slow to break anything, or lucky, or what ? I thought a 600km was only a long brevet, just put relatively new tires, batteries in the lights, clean the chain and let's go.
This makes me wonder what is the proper stuff to carry... For instance, should one always have a "cassette cracker" on a 600km ? I'm already carrying some fancy stuff all the time: chain tool, real spoke wrench, kevlar emergency spoke, spare powerlink for 9spd and connex link for 10spd, adapter shroder->presta if I have a flat near a gas station. What else is missing ? I don't carry spare cables, should I ? Maybe I should fold the bike friday and carry it in panniers...
Jul 2, 2003 7:22 PM
|I ride 600 with what fits in jersey pockets and I stick to it.
There's no way you can predict what may go bad I've seen frames crack, freehubs stripped, handlebars fall apart, rims bent and heard of crank arms fall apart. My prevention is to use "race" low mile/good condition bike and make sure there's another brevet in a week/two I don't have to drive 500mi to.
Basic maintenance includes new chain every 5k mi, new cables once a season /cable failure is common/ and headset/hub grease every 2 years. Also lubing deraileurs with chain change.
|re: ok you went for a ride and your freehub failed..||Atombomber|
Jul 2, 2003 4:34 PM
|Well, I have had a few things go wrong. Won't free wheel, won't engage, and ripped the splines right off the hub. If you tear the hub splines off, you're totally screwed. If it doesn't free wheel, then you could just keep pedalling, but 80 miles?!?!? If it doesn't engage, then you could try to jam something between the hub and the freehub, but you might do more harm then good. All were Shimano freehubs, but the sheared splined hub was a titanium Nuke Proof.
You might need to pull out your Swiss Army Thumb, and use the Hitchhiker tool. How it was repaired and the tools required depends on the brand of freehub. For Shimano, you require the appropriate cone wrenches to remove the axle. A strong magnet is not required, but it makes removing the loose ball bearings easier and cleaner. To open the freehub to get to the guts, you'll need the tool or make something to remove the backwards threaded freehub bearing cup. Once you have the cup out, be prepared to start chasing 50 (yes fifty, five zero) 1/8" ball bearings and a few springs and engagement tabs. Next, you'll need a stout 10mm allen wrench to remove the rest of the freehub. Clean and lightly oil freehub inner and outer bodies. Lightly oil the engagement tabs and the springs and fit into the retainer. Use dental floss to hold the tabs in place by winding a few times arround. Next step becomes a real pain, because you have to try to get the 25 1/8" balls back into the hub side of the freehub. Try using a film of grease to stick them into the race, or you can try to drop them into place with the inner housing mostly in place. Once that is complete, drop the rest of the balls in from the open end and screw the cup back in place. If all goes well, the freehub should be working again, and you can reattach it to the hub, put the bearings back in and adjust the cones. Put the cogs back on (you need to take them off to work on the freehub), put the QR back in, and contimue the ride. Allow 2 hours to curse, 1 hour to do the freehub rebuild, and 15 minutes to finish the project.
|re: ok you went for a ride and your freehub failed..||kgg|
Jul 2, 2003 7:48 PM
|I'll give it a try. How about removing a spoke (probably from the front) and wrapping/tying it around some rear spokes and the spider arms of the cog gears to fix it in place. Then, pedal, gingerly and continuously, until you're home.|
|Alternative ...||Humma Hah|
Jul 3, 2003 6:24 AM
|Rather than removing a spoke and imbalancing the wheel, find something else to lace back and forth between the spokes and the big cog. Really old-fashioned riders might use a shoelace (assuming they can stay in the pedals using their old-fashioned toeclips). I usually have a modest supply of cable ties. At nearest hardware store, buy some wire.
80 miles of fixed gear riding sounds OK to me. 150 might be a bit much.