|saddle fore/aft position question||03Vortex|
Jun 27, 2003 4:22 PM
|I have done my fore/aft position of the saddle using a plumb line and KOPS (opting to keep it all centered vs. slightly forward or back) but was wondering if there is any "accepted/approximate" range in cm of set back from tip of saddle measured in relation to bottom bracket?
|Saddles are not consistent||Kerry|
Jun 27, 2003 5:12 PM
|There's enough range in saddle construction that you can't really use the saddle as a reference point for position. Start with KOPS and then move forward if you like to spin and back if you like to push. Forward if you have relatively short femurs, back if you have relatively long ones. Forward if it feels better, back if it feels better. The "accepted" range around KOPS is 1 cm forward to 2 cm back. This assumes you did a precise measurement in the first place so that you really are at KOPS.|
|re: saddle fore/aft position question||divve|
Jun 27, 2003 7:42 PM
|In addition to what Kerry wrote I also find it more relaxing to have the seat more back. In my case I can maintain a lower position with less pressure on my hands, shoulders, and back.|
|precise measurement is difficult...||C-40|
Jun 28, 2003 4:44 AM
|When I measure KOP, I level the bike on a trainer, ride for awhile to get "situated", then take the measurement (without assistance). I've often found that my measurement was still not very accurate. As soon as I got the bike out on the road, I could tell that the saddle position or the reach didn't feel right. I've had to make immediate changes, just to get within 1cm of the desired fore/aft position. The only other way to eliminate this error is to always use the same model of saddle. Then, a measurement can be taken from the tip of the saddle to the center of the BB. Change the brand or model of saddle, and the measurement is (usually) worthless.
Unless there is an error in the advertised geometry of a frame, It's easy to select the proper stem length compared to an existing bike and to accurately adjust bar height. The only hard part then, is adjusting both the saddle height and fore/aft. I'm going through this process with a new bike, which has a different saddle than my old one. The new saddle has made it a lot tougher to dial in my position.
Don't restrict yourself to a directly-over-pedal position. If you really want to experiment, you'll need 3 stems to permit moving the saddle at least 1cm forward or backward, without affecting the reach. Pesonally, I don't bother with forward positions any more. I know that the range of saddle position that I find useable is somewhere between directly over the pedal to 2cm back.