|Types of bikes||drmeatrx|
Jun 1, 2003 1:20 PM
|I've been riding mountain bikes for a while now, and am finally starting to get into road biking. My current ride is a 1980 Schwinn Supersport that my grandfather left for me. It is still in great condition and rides well, however, I've been looking for something newer to upgrade to. In all my looking I've found road, tt bikes (time trial), triathalon, and touring bikes. I pretty sure what I want is a road bike. What are the differences in the differrent bikes, I know it has to do with weight, geometry, and gearing, but what exactly are the differences? Thanks!|
|One Mans Opinion||wink|
Jun 1, 2003 1:32 PM
|TTs and Tri are built with more aerodynamics because there is no drafting allowed in these events. Also the gearing can be higher by having larger chain rings in the front. You will not find triple chain rings on TTs and Tri.
For the "road" bike you get choose from steel, aluminum, titanium, carborn or combo thereof for your frames. Bikes like Specialized, Trek and Cannondales are mostly AL. But some people argue that steel frames are easier on the rider because they have more flex. The Ti and Carbon frames can really get expensive.
Then there are the componets sets. Shimano makes three high grade componet sets; Dura Ace likes Lance Armstrong uses on his carbon bike the componets group without wheels is about $1,300; Ultegra and 105. see www.shimano.com. Also Campagnalo makes componets and a lot of European bikes will have those.
I think that you can into a "good" road bile like a Felt with a 105 set up for under $1,000. The formula you should use take the average number of miles that you will ride in one year, put a $ in front of that number and spend no more than that.
|The main differances of the bikes you ask about (from someone who is "profoundley ignorant on the subject").||the bull|
Jun 1, 2003 3:30 PM
|Is geometery And yes I did not ace the subject but I feel I can help.
Road bikes have a "normal" Seat tube angle(STA)
say - 73
It puts you in a good position for normal riding.
TT or tri bikes have a steeper STA (78-or so)this is because it puts you more over the bars(areo)leaning forward in a more aero position.
The Touring bike has a more relaxed geometry (say 72) and a shorter top tube.They also have braze-ons for racks and more tire clearence for fenders.Most I have seen have v-brakes for stonger stopping, with bags I guess.
I would recomend the road bike for everyday use.
Jun 1, 2003 3:37 PM
|Road bike - around 73 degree seat tube angle (varies with size), around 100 cm wheelbase, not a lot of fender/tire clearance, reasonably aggressive handling, good for distance rides.
TT/triathalon bike - steeper STA (as much as 78 degrees) to get you more forward and allow a very low position while avoiding your legs hitting your chest, no fender/tire clearance, not great handling (not ridden in a group), made to ride in an aero position but not great for long distances.
Criterium bike - slightly more upright and aggressive handling road bike.
Touring bike - slack STA, long wheelbase, long chain stays, fender clearance, braze-ons for rack mounts, slower handling, good for long distances but more upright seating (higher handlebars, shorter top tube) means less aero and slower than road bike.
The "right" bike is all about what you want.
|Hmmm ... can I have that old Schwinn ...||Humma Hah|
Jun 1, 2003 4:01 PM
|... if you're planning on tossing it out? ;-) Over on the retro forum, there are a lot of owners of vintage Schwinns. They typically are nice-riding bikes, not always the lightest or the best-equipped, but you can get attached to them.
Questions to ask: what will you use it for? Are you a fire-breathing competitor who wants to race? What kind of racing? Would you prefer to stay "recreational", but log some serious miles? Will you be riding in serious mountains?
If you're not going to race, and just ride recreationally, almost any decent-quality general purpose roadbike will do, provided it fits you like you were born to ride it. Nothing else matters so much. Get fitted by someone who knows what they're doing, try some bikes that are supposed to fit you, and buy the one that makes you smile and want to ride forever.
Don't worry much about weight unless your're racing. Taking a 180 pound rider putting out a cruising power of a modest 110 watts, a 22-pound bike on flat ground will be about 12 seconds slower after 40 kilometers than that same rider would be on an 18-pound bike. Climbing a 1 km 8% grade, the extra weight will cost about 14 seconds at that same power, about 2% slower. It is more important to get a durable, comfortable bike of good quality.