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Rear brake shoe not sitting level.(4 posts)

Rear brake shoe not sitting level.aliensporebomb
May 29, 2003 3:05 AM
My TCR2 has been working fine but I went and changed out my
skewer for my trainer for the light shimano skewer that my
wheelset came with.

Wheel fits just fine but I'm finding the brake shoe is too
close to the left side of the wheel. The brake shoe looks
canted to the left so it's basically engaging against the

I'm still new to the whole bike maintenance thing - you
almost need four hands to (1) place the tire in the rear
(2) make sure the tire is absolutely vertical between the
stays and (3) in between the brake shoes.

Ideas? I don't want to adjust the brakes lest I make it
Feels like I'm being sucked in, but here goes....coonass
May 29, 2003 3:57 AM
Set the rear wheel so that it is fully seated in the dropouts and the tyre is equally distant from the chain-stays....(don't be concerned about the brakes during this)...after the wheel is set, if one brake pad is too far out, bump/tap that side with the heel of your hand until pads are equal distance from the rim. If one/both pads are not in alignment with the braking surface of your rim, then you will have to reset them by loosening the pad-bolt; squeeze the brakes to determine correct position of the pads. If the pads are too far away from the rim; use a vise clamp to hold the pads against the rim (put nickels between the pads & braking surface), now re-tighten your cable. When you release the clamp, the pads should be the thickness of a nickel away from the rim.
Feels like I'm being sucked in, but here goes....aliensporebomb
May 29, 2003 4:51 AM
I've tried this but what seems to be happening is the
actual mounting of the brake hardware on the frame is
loose somehow, and the brake cable is causing it to
cant to the left. I wonder if the bolt holding the
brake hardware to the frame is loose somehow. Thanks
for the suggestions though. I'll take a look at it
park tool...C-40
May 29, 2003 7:19 AM
Check out the info at For a beginner, it's pretty informative.

The pads should have a spherical washer between the pad and the caliper arm that permits the pad to rotate to proper alignment with the rim. Loosen the pad clamp bolt, apply the brakes and then retighten the pad clamp bolt with the brake applied to align the pad with the rim. If brake squeal is encountered, a small amount of toe-in may be needed (see the park tool site for a depiction). The thickness of a nickel is more toe-in than needed, IMO.

Brake centering involves both the caliper mounting bolt (to the frame) and an adjustment screw for fine tuning, (except for single pivot brakes that have no fine adjustment screw).