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building bike . .. how about right STI only?(12 posts)

building bike . .. how about right STI only?bm
May 27, 2003 10:38 PM
got a great deal on a '99 Caad3. was orginally going to set it up as a touring bike, but i think now i might make it a 2nd race frame.

anyhow, saw a deal for a $59 right-only ultegra STI shifting lever. so i was thinking i'd use a downtube for the front derail and the ultegra STI for the rear. i know it's possible, but i was wondering if anyone else uses this setup up. i couldn't tell myself, but someone told me Lance A rides like this. (i thought I could save some $money$ and weight)

lastly, if anyone has any suggestions for building on the '99 CAAD3, please post.

Lance does it...Dave Hickey
May 28, 2003 3:46 AM
No problems. It works fine.
re: building bike . .. how about right STI only?mackgoo
May 28, 2003 5:00 AM
Alot of pro's on big mountain stages do it, maybe it's the mountain TT's. It saves a few ounce's.
re: right STI only?Fredrico
May 28, 2003 6:48 AM
And how many of us climb in the big ring?

The front derailleur is also very simple, no clicks necessary, and it doesn't have to be used all that much. Sticking it on the downtube gets it out of the way. Lance must be on to something. The simple solution is also the most elegant: lighter weight, less moving parts, shorter cable run--so more reliable and maintenance free. Reaching down with the left arm to make the shift is a non-issue to anyone who once used downtube shifters.

Great idea.
where do you live?Steve_0
May 28, 2003 6:47 AM
My racebike has only the right STI. Single 46 tooth chainring up front. 8 gears as it is plenty for rolling terrain, and TOO many for flatlands.
does it ever jump off the single chain ring on small cogs?macalu
May 28, 2003 7:33 AM
May 28, 2003 7:47 AM
I have the chainring on the inside of the crank, so I limit the derailleur to avoid the smallest cog anyway. Chain's never jumped on the upper 8 cogs.
workd better, imhoDougSloan
May 28, 2003 6:56 AM
I've been doing this for years with Dura Ace and Record. The DT lever allows smoother, more precise shifts compared to the STI, and you don't end up swerving or braking when you shift. It is particulary good for terrain that allows you to stay in one ring for long periods of time. Not sure I'd like it for racing where keeping hands on the bars is important and requiring lots of front shifts. Medium long/steep rolling hills or lots of slow corners could be a problem.

Lots of frames don't have braze-ons for DT shifters now, and Campy no longer sells them. They may eventually become relics.

No offense, but I just can't imagineelviento
May 28, 2003 7:54 AM
I just can't imagine swerving or braking when you try to shift an STI lever. Shifting STI seems natural reflex to me.
That's how mine is set up (nm)indymac
May 28, 2003 7:25 AM
Works finemass_biker
May 28, 2003 8:31 AM
Moved my Dura-Ace STI shifters onto a new bike this past winter and as I built up the old one, managed to get my hands on one well-worn Dura-Ace right hand (rear) STI shifter only. So I put it on, and use a standard DT shifter for the left hand side (front). No problems at all. For me, it was a solution that presented itself based on available parts, but for others (Lance, and I believe, Jalabert back in the day) it is a solution governed by weight. Whatever. It works.

I have one too - on my training bike.outofthesaddle
May 28, 2003 10:27 AM
I was too cheap to replace dead left STI so I threw on downtube shifter for the front. Doesn't save any weight because I haven't gotten around to swapping out dead STI lever but I couldn't justify spending the $$ for my training bike.