|Truing stand question...||ClydeTri|
May 21, 2003 7:15 AM
|for a stand such as:
do you have to bolt it down or is it stable enough to use if just placed on a table top?
|re: Truing stand question...||txcross|
May 21, 2003 7:21 AM
|I have the exact same truing stand. No you do not need to bolt it down. Just so you know, you get what you pay for. I would not use this if you plan to build up a wheel from scratch. For general truing it works OK though.|
|Do I need...||ClydeTri|
May 21, 2003 7:24 AM
|Do i need to buy the alignment tool?|
|If your planning to...||txcross|
May 21, 2003 7:32 AM
|build up a wheelset, yes. The main problem I have with the stand is the guage that shows whether or not the wheel is centered is very flimsy (sp?) and does not seem to hold it's position well. I personally have yet to tackle building wheels from scratch, so depending on how good you are this may work.|
|alignment tool not required||wilsonc|
May 21, 2003 8:10 AM
|I have used the same stand to build up a set of wheels, and while it is a bit flimsy, it is possible. To check if the dishing is correct, just flip the wheel around the truing stand. It'll be pretty apparent if the dishing is correct or not. With a flimsier stand such as this, you just have to be careful when flipping the wheel such that you dont bump things or knock them out of place.|
|good to know||txcross|
May 21, 2003 8:13 AM
|I am looking at building up a new set wheels, your suggestion sounds good.|
|Do I need...||eddie m|
May 21, 2003 7:57 AM
|I don't use a dish guage. I just place the wheel horizontally on 2 blocks set on the edge of a table and measure the height of the locknut from the table, then flip it over and measure again. I also use an old fork as a truing stand, but I added 2 dial indicators that I bought used for $10 each. All this stuff works fine but it takes a little longer to set up. (Actually, the fork with dial indicators is more accurate than any truing stand without indicators.) For the price of professional tools and jigs, you could pay a pro to do the job.|
|That's not really true||pmf1|
May 21, 2003 8:25 AM
|For $160 you can get the best stand Park makes. No need to buy the base, you can simply use a C-clamp and attach it to a work bench or table. My LBS charges $25 to true a wheel. You'll have the Park stand forever -- it never wears out. In the end, you'll true a hell of a lot more than 7, or even 70 wheels with it. Plus, you save a lot of time by not taking the wheel off, driving to the LBS, waiting for them to true it (if they're nice enough to do it while you wait) and driving back home.
I bought a stand years ago when I was considerably less wealthy. I got the cheaper Park consumer stand. I wish I had just sprung for the nicer stand to begin with. I've built wheels and trued wheels on the stand I've got and it works fine. But given that it lasts forever, sooner or later you're talking a few cents difference per wheel.
As far as using an old fork, I'm sure it works fine. Hell, you can just turn the bike upside down and use the brake calipers as guides if you want. A stand is a lot more convenient though.
|That's not really true||eddie m|
May 21, 2003 9:48 AM
|Your missing my point. Accurate measuring tools are more important for inexperienced builders than professional quality stands designed to set up quickly. I've got $30 in it ($20 for two used dial indicators and $10 for vernier caliper to measure dish)and I can build a wheel more accurately then I can with a Park stand. The next $50 I will spend will be a tension guage. That makes a total of $80, which is $80 less than the best Park stand. For that to get to a "few cents difference per wheel," I'd need to build 3000 wheels or so. Not many people are going to build more than a few wheels once they realize how tedious it is. The only disadvantage of my approach is that it takes me maybe an extra half hour or so to set it all up.|
|And you missed my point to||pmf1|
May 22, 2003 4:29 AM
|First off, you noted that for the price of a stand someone "could pay a pro" to true a wheel. My point was that for what most LBS charge (not including the value of your time driving down there), you'd be money ahead real fast buying a decent stand instead. Over its life, if you keep riding a lot, you will end up truing a lot of wheels (building, not truing), and building some. Over say 10 years, the $80 extra you spend for a nice stand will really amount to $0.25/wheel you true or build (OK, I true wheels for friends and my wife as well). ANd a stand will last a lot longer than 10 years.
If you factor the value of your time spent setting it up (you mentioned half an hour) in, the stand becomes worth it real fast to me. Got lots of time and no money? It'll change -- trust me.
IMO, there is no substitute for good tools. How do you check roundness with your contraption? How do you know its more precise than a park stand. You claim "I can build a wheel more accurately then I can with a Park stand." I bet you've never used a Park stand. If you had, I doubt you'd be screwing around with some home made contraption. If its so much better, why don't bike stores use such a creation? You'd be way better off buying a stand and pass on the tensiometer. People who build a lot of wheels will tell you that you do not need one of these. Go to a good LBS and see if the mechanics use them. I never used one on any of the wheels I built and they all turned out very good. And they're more like $100 than $50 --- I guess unless you plan to build one of those too.
|Do I need...||boyd2|
May 21, 2003 9:18 AM
|I am with eddie m. As a poor boy I built a truing stand out of scrap lumber. I also build a dishing tool out of a small piece of 3/4" plywood. I true my wheels all the time and have even built 3 or 4 wheels on this stand. All the stand really does is hold the wheel perfectly still and in a highly repeatable location. My first truing stand used sharpened pencils as runout indicators and it worked fine. I actually need to build a new stand as mine has suffered some damage (the wood warped). I was thinking that now that I had some money I would buy a Park stand, but this thread makes me think that I should do another home built. It is a time vs. money thing for me.|
|It works fine... a couple things...||PdxMark|
May 21, 2003 9:17 AM
|Don't wrench down with the wheel quick release on the stand. I've read that the plastic hub fingers on the stand can be crushed. I use the quick release to hold the wheel just fine, just not super-duper he-man tight.
Also, give the wheel just a reasonable spin. A hard spin can swing the wheel off-ceter a bit.
I've used it for a few months. I like it alot. It's not Park quality, but it helps me keep my wheel true. I strongly recommend it for use by a dabbling wrench, like myself.
May 21, 2003 9:43 AM
|just ordered it..with 20% coupon and team performance 10% will only cost me about $21....|
|Great deal!! ....||PdxMark|
May 21, 2003 9:48 AM
|When I fly fished, I used to think that I might someday (in retirement) get into tying flies as a relaxing past-time. Instead, truing wheels on that stand is what I like. Almost anytime I take a wheel off now, I drop it into the stand and true it up.
Be sure to get the correct-sized spoke wrench. I was getting by with a Park black one, when the smaller green one was what fit better. Rounding a nipple reminded me to get the right tool for the job.