's Forum Archives - General

Archive Home >> General(1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 )

Spoke Replacement & Tensioning(2 posts)

Spoke Replacement & Tensioningbent_spoke
Apr 26, 2003 11:55 AM
I've got the replacement spokes for my old '75 Peugeot which probably came with steel rims (no $$ to update right now). I want to replace spokes, true/tension the wheel so the spokes stop breaking. From my previous post, someone mentioned that you don't have to worry about dishing a 5 speed cassette. If this is true, does this also mean that the left & right sides of the wheel get the same tension. I'm guessing this is the case as the spokes are the same length (removed a 2nd one to check).

Regarding the tensioning, is it recommended that I get the spokes as tight as possibly while keeping the wheel true, even though this is a steel rim. I appreciate the help, as I'm planning to use this bike for the NYC 5 boroughs ride & it'll great not to have to worry about busting spokes!
That's a tall order.Spoke Wrench
Apr 26, 2003 1:29 PM
First of all, consider the condition of your rims. If they have been warped over the years as is likely, no amount of tuneing and tensioning is going to get you both straight rims and even spoke tension.

5 speed rear wheels do have to be dished in order to center the rim between the chainstays. The dishing just isn't as pronounced as on 7,8 and 9-speed wheels.

The objective is threefold:
1. Provide adequate tension on the left side of the rear wheel (the least tensioned hub flange).
2. Provide as equal tension as possible to each spoke. There will be a noticeable difference between the left and right side of the rear wheel. There will be some but much less difference among spokes on the same side.
3. Make the rim both round and true from side to side. Side to side is easy. Round is hard.

Good luck!