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Campy shimano mix, new road bike Iam building.....(4 posts)

Campy shimano mix, new road bike Iam building.....Trevo
Apr 22, 2003 9:49 AM
Iam gettting a higher end GT road bike frame and fork from my work for dirt cheap, due to a small dent in the top-tube. Iam going to offer them a small price for the frame,fork,along with headset and brakes. This will be my first dedicated non franken road bike.
Basically want a 8 or 9 speed set-up so Iam looking at Tiagra/105 STI levers, and no lower then 105 rear derrailur. One option I have(to save a little money) is to build up some freewheel road PhilWood hubs I bought for 20 bucks. Would a 6 speed freewheel set-up with friction bar-cons be sutible for a little bit?
What about mixing campy with shimano, thinking camp front der. and minor stuff like that.
Are larger diameter road bars and stems all that beneficial?

An opinions/ advice appreciated.
stay away from mixingtronracer
Apr 22, 2003 10:22 AM
While it may work. You will always run into some problems because Shimano designs their stuff to work with their stuff and Campy designs their stuff to work with their stuff. Think of it like mixing Apple with Microsoft. You may get it to work, but it won't work great.
stay away from mixingrussw19
Apr 22, 2003 3:11 PM
You can mix campy brakes into the fray or shimano, but make sure all your drive train stuff is the same. If you run downtube shifters, you can mix the brake calipers and levers, and if it's older stuff, you can use a campy crank and BB with an otherwise shimano drivetrain. But I wouldn't do it with anything higher than 7 speed. If you run freewheels and friction shifting, it won't really matter what you mix. A couple of no-no's are putting a campy crank on a JIS spec (shimano) spindle and a shimano crank on a campy spindle.

Good luck,
Russ
Campag 8 or 9 front mech will shift just about anythinglonefrontranger
Apr 22, 2003 7:33 PM
As long as you're not talking a C-10 front mech, which would be too narrow. A few years back I used a brand new '99 Record front mech to shift the drivetrain on my FrankenCrossBike From Hell, after the 105 mech failed miserably at the task of taking up a 38/50 ringset. The rest of the group was a beatup mix of 105, STX, CODA and ancient Dura Ace. Worked great, never threw the chain (unintentionally, see below) and didn't make noise. Would even smoothly shift to all 3 rings on the old CODA triple crank when I stuck a d/t lever on the front for a long hilly touring gig. Shimano l/h STI levers won't do triple unless you buy 'em specially built that way, though in a couple ultra hilly 'cross races I discovered I could 'panic' shift to the 30t granny (desperate times call for desperate measures) by holding in the lefthand lever and giving the driveside crank a swift kick to the BB.

You can also use Shimano 9-speed cranks with C-10 drivetrains and they work just fine. Oh sure the purists out there will howl, but my coach is a pro on the road and track (i.e. he's a powerful sprinter) and he runs a D/A 9 crank and BB on a Record 10 drivetrain as he prefers the Campag ergonomics, durability and gear ratios but the stiffer Shimano BB.

I find the advantage to a Campag front mech is that it is nowhere near as sensitive to ring size, position or spacing as it's Shimano counterpart. Of course now I use all C-10 stuff, but anyhow.