Apr 16, 2003 6:45 AM
|The spokes on my old bike continue to break. I expect that I should replace them all at this point. Can someone tell me how to determine the correct size? I thought that I would try replacing them myself & probably get one of those Park tension tools to get that piece right. Any helpful tips would be appreciated.|
Apr 16, 2003 6:52 AM
|Take one from each side (rear) off and measure them, from the J bend to the other end.
Apr 16, 2003 7:28 AM
|spokes usually break from under-tensioning, happens if wheel was trued several times and spoke tension is not equalized. You'd need to de-tension and rebuild it.
If it is rear/non-drive/leading spokes you might need half radial wheel good luck
PS. here's how to tension wheels by musical pitch http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm
Apr 16, 2003 7:32 AM
|don't use a radial, it will make the wheel weaker and less comfortable to ride.|
Apr 16, 2003 8:07 AM
|it actually makes stronger wheel, I won't build rear wheel any other way.
here's for you to read http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#half-radial
|assuming the hub flange can handle it? nm||DougSloan|
Apr 16, 2003 8:26 AM
|no problem there||cyclopathic|
Apr 16, 2003 10:47 AM
|it is non-drive side, tension at least 1.5-2 times less.|
|Try this.||Spoke Wrench|
Apr 16, 2003 10:41 AM
|Check Sheldon's gallery of his personal bikes. How many half radial laced rear wheels do you find?|
|one word: retro||cyclopathic|
Apr 16, 2003 11:04 AM
|1st as purist you wouldn't do it to retro bike,
2nd dishing is not an issue on 10speed
|I wouldn't use the pope for a reference||Spoke Wrench|
Apr 18, 2003 5:49 AM
|if I were trying to convert somebody to Islam.|
|re: Breaking Spokes||sievers11|
Apr 16, 2003 7:29 AM
|Option 1 (best way)
use your old spokes to get the correct sizes. measure from the inside of the bend along the full length of the spoke.
Use a spoke length guide...I think DT Swiss has one on their website.
note: if you are breaking your spokes it is more than likely a problem with your spoke tension. You need to have the correct tension and have the same tension balanced throughout the wheel. In a perfect world all of the spokes with the exact same tension should result in a perfectly true wheel, but the problem is the rim. Unless you are dealing with some of the taller profile aero rims, the likely hood of getting a perfect rim is slim. This can become more of a problem if your wheel was built incorrectly, because when you brake one spoke it will but a lot of stress on a rim...more times you brake spokes the more is stresses the rim and takes it out of shape. Then when you rebuild you are starting with new spokes but are trying to use an old stress and slightly bent rim. You will have to fudge perfectly even tension in order to get the wheel true. This will cause undue stress on certain spokes and you are back to where you started.
So, I think you should get a new rim and start from scratch or you are a prime candidate to start a vicious cycle. (no pun intended)
|you need a wheel rebuild (nm)||ColnagoFE|
Apr 16, 2003 8:03 AM
|re: grave doubts about radial spoking...||Fredrico|
Apr 16, 2003 9:05 AM
|Interesting that Sheldon Brown finds radial laced wheels better than cross-laced wheels. Conventional wisdom said cross-lacing distributes the loads tangentially from hub to rim, thereby allowing a better shock absorbption over bumps. Presumably, radially spoked wheels don't give at all. The repeated compression of loads over road shocks makes the nipples unscrew, or pull out of the rims, or elongate and eventually crack the hub at the spoke holes. The spokes don't break. Instead the rims or the hubs break. So there's the question of durability.
Sheldon also says hub flange holes elongate to accomodate the directions of the spokes. So lacing a 3 cross wheel radially would gamble on splitting the hub flange or cutting the spoke at the bend.
|Thanks for the tips!!! [nm]||bent_spoke|
Apr 17, 2003 11:28 AM