's Forum Archives - General

Archive Home >> General(1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 )

Measuring a threaded steerer while its installed?(17 posts)

Measuring a threaded steerer while its installed?Kristin
Apr 7, 2003 7:51 AM
Is there any way to get a good measurement of a threaded steerer tube without pulling it out? Also, how do I measure my fork rake? That little tidbit of info doesn't appear to be listed anywhere for the aelle.
Apr 7, 2003 7:58 AM
Threaded forks generally have 50mm of threading and only come in 20-30mm increments. All you need in one that's long enough, but not so long that you the finished length is less than the threaded length. Measure from the bottom of the headset to the locknut on top and be sure that the length you buy is at least that long. It will be cut to size when it's installed.

Look down the page for rake measuring. This has been asked quite recently. It's difficult to do with sufficient accuracy. If you can determine the head tube angle of your frame, then you can decide on an appropriate rake based on a trail calculation. If you post the model of frame, someone may have this info.
I'd pull the fork to measure either one.Spoke Wrench
Apr 7, 2003 8:00 AM
Pulling the fork isn't a big deal. Unbolt the brake caliper, pull out the handlebar and just drop it down. Once the fork's out, it's real easy to take both measurements accurately. I think that those measurements are too important to risk doing a half-way job.
Bike will be unridable if I pull the fork againKristin
Apr 7, 2003 8:07 AM
LOL. Okay that sounded funny. Of course it would be unridable. But what I mean is that I have a bulged steerer that's only a degree from being toast. As long as I don't crash and am careful, its ridable. If I pull it out again, I won't be able to re-install it. I was hoping figure out the measurment without pullin git so I could look for a sale. (My checkbook was toast long before some buttwipe over-tightened my stem.)
Threaded? Length to the top of the locknut. Less a few mm...Spunout
Apr 7, 2003 8:35 AM
Rake is distance axle is ahead of centre of steer-tube, use a yardstick and eyeball it.

Order more steerer than less(just ask Doug), any good shop can cut excess and thread the tube.
threading not needed...C-40
Apr 7, 2003 9:01 AM
Threaded forks only have to be purchased within 20mm of the final length. Cut off the excess, chamfer the top edge and you're done.

Take a measurement that has a normal range of less the 1/4 inch by eyeball with a yardstick! What would be the reference point for this measurement?
Apr 7, 2003 9:05 AM
Or call 210-656-1655 in Texas. They should know about the fork rake. They might even stock the same fork.
Opinions on any of these forks?Kristin
Apr 7, 2003 10:21 AM
On the Easton, it doesn't state the diamiter? Should assume 1 inch?? Are all threaded 1 inch?

On this one, I can buy the 310mm unthreaded...can that be threaded or is the steerer tube going to be thinner than on the 155mm threaded?
(I know my fork is more than 160mm long.)

Some follow-up questions. One of the biggest problems I've had on this bike is getting my bars up high enough. Is it possible to get the bars up higher by changing the fork? I wasn't under the impression this would matter since I have a long stem (profile) already at the max height. Input?

I know I'm being a dork about all of this, and a bit neurotic, but I really am out of cash now and I need to do this a cheap as possible.
Opinions on any of these forks?MR_GRUMPY
Apr 7, 2003 10:42 AM
The Easton is a great fork. Threaded road forks are all 1". You can put a ton of spacers under the lock nut of a threadded fork and nothing will happen. Don't think of threading an unthreaded fork. If you get a threadless fork, you'll need a new headset and a new stem.
If I were you, I'd stick with the threadded fork and a stem that you can raise and lower. Last time I bought a threadded fork, I was too lazy to cut off a quarter inch of stearer tube. I just added 1/4" of spacers. Like I said, you could leave 2" of threadded stearer exposed. You would just have to use 2" of spacers.
Just make sure the threads don't go down too far. You don't want to have the expander pressing on threads.
What does adding spacers to a threaded stem do exactly?Kristin
Apr 7, 2003 11:57 AM
It just is going to mean that the steerer sticks out beyond the top of the headset and you have to cover it with spacers, right? How does that work for protections? doesn't it increase risk of, say, water running down into your steerer? Perhaps I'm not picturing this correctly.
What does adding spacers to a threaded stem do exactly?GregJ
Apr 7, 2003 5:08 PM
You don't add the spacers to the stem but just stack them around the steerer on the headset and then put the locknut on and insert stem, voila. I agree with the previous poster that adding some height to your steerer tube via spacers is a good idea to help get the bars up. It looks quite clean on a threaded set up and is perfectly safe. If you are unsure what fork you need, you should probably let your shop take the liability for getting it wrong instead of ordering it mailorder, although I sympathize with your desire to save a few bucks, as I am a fellow cheapskate !
Ah. I understandKristin
Apr 8, 2003 5:49 AM
Interesting that in all my shop visits and conversations around the fact that I can't get my stem raised high enough, this was never presented to me as an option. Didn't even know it was available. I know what you're saying. Actually, the 180mm EC70 at Nashbar is probably exactly the right size (didn't have time to measure last night). I know that a 160mm was only slightly too small. the 180mm with a spacer might be exactly what I need!!! Might just be my lucky day.
Opinions on any of these forks?russw19
Apr 7, 2003 8:26 PM
Worth noting that you are talking about modern forks being sold today. There are threaded forks in larger than a 1 inch diameter. I had a Cannondale that had a threaded 1 and 1/4 inch steerer.

Also, Kristen, how is it that overtightening your stem killed your fork? Your fork should be stronger than that. If tightening your expander caused this, you should try to have your fork warrantied. Someone would have needed a really long allen wrench to put that much torque on the bolt. On top of that, the bolt should have sheared off before you destroyed your steerer tube.

Sorry, I know this doesn't help you, but it's just a thought.

I don't think its difficult to bulge a steerer.Kristin
Apr 8, 2003 5:57 AM
At least that's the impression I get. There are a couple warnings about this in the Zinn book and a bunch of people had told me to be careful about it in the past. 3 different parties have worked on this fork/stem...2 shops and 1 friend. So when the damage occured and who did it is a mystery. There are 2 separate 2mm bulges in the steerer just beneath the threads. I'll call CBike to see about warrenties, but I doubt that this will be covered under warrenty, since it is damage caused by over-tourque the stem bolt.
You're my new best friend! I owe you.Kristin
Apr 8, 2003 8:30 AM
I called CBike and the skinny on the fork is that damage caused by overtightening a stem is not warrentied. But she offered to call the distributor and see if they can get me a replacement fork. She got me a stem for a 53 Aelle for $50. That's a good price and its the same fork that's in my bike now, so I don't have to dick around with figuring out the size/rake. So thanks for the suggestion. I wouldn't have gotten this offer otherwise. (Actually, that price is about right, the frame/fork combo new is only $450.)
don't buy an unthreaded fork...C-40
Apr 7, 2003 12:15 PM
If you use a threaded headset and quill stem, don't buy an unthreaded steerer and expect some LBS to thread it for you. They won't appreciate the business.

Perhaps you should consider a cheap steel fork.
Still trying to save the LBS?Kristin
Apr 8, 2003 6:01 AM
If I go that route, I will find a person to cut it before I make the purchase and will make sure they are okay with the reasons why I'm buying a fork on sale. Not everyone is unsympathetic to the financial plight of others. I'm not out trying to rip anyone off. I've met lots of people who understand that and are still helpful and kind.