|My bike felt too big after campy build up!||the bull|
Mar 31, 2003 9:40 AM
|After installing all the new stuff my bike felt more streched out!Thought at first I was used to the bike my friend had let me borrow,but after a couple of rides on my new bike it was still feeling streched out.The handle bars were still in the same position so it must be the campy hoods that have more room(this was another reason I wanted to go to campy).I had good luck by aiming the bars down and moving the levers back.What a differance.Every thing feels great now.This must be a good way to fine tune your reach that I never even thought about.Anyone else ever do this?|
|Oh yeah, here are some pics of finished bike!||the bull|
Mar 31, 2003 9:55 AM
|Campy carbon cranks!||the bull|
Mar 31, 2003 9:57 AM
Mar 31, 2003 9:59 AM
Mar 31, 2003 10:00 AM
|That is an amazing optical illusion nm||PdxMark|
Mar 31, 2003 3:13 PM
|beauty! nm||JS Haiku Shop|
Mar 31, 2003 10:27 AM
|Nice, but about that cable kink in the Front View? (NM)||HAL9010|
Mar 31, 2003 11:06 AM
|thats a hell of a optical illusion!||the bull|
Mar 31, 2003 11:10 AM
|I would be a pretty crappy builder if that was a true kink huh!It must have been the way the sun hit it!|
|check it out!!||the bull|
Mar 31, 2003 11:14 AM
|Hey, The Bull, question?||Juanmoretime|
Mar 31, 2003 11:07 AM
|I just did the same think on my Vortex. Did you go with the Eurus wheels? What are your thoughts on them? I'm currently running Velomax Curcuit comp with a Wheels Manufacturing conversion cassette. My other bike has Campy Chorus hubs and a Chorus cassette. I feel the Campy cassette shifts slightly better than the conversion cassette, although the shifting is acceptable.|
|So far I like them alot!||the bull|
Mar 31, 2003 11:20 AM
|I only weigh 153lbs.The wheels feel stiff.
They are also pretty aero and light! A combo that is hard to find!Everything is shifting perfect!
The one thing about these wheels is you have to take tires off to true them.But hopefully this wont happen often!
|bar tilt and hood position||ripSRV|
Mar 31, 2003 11:11 AM
|I've noticed a lot of pro's riding with the hoods very high on the bars and the bottom "flat" section of the bars nowhere near level. Used to be bars were tilted to just about level on the bottom "flat" but that doesn't seem to be the common way right now. I still haven't taped my bars yet since the hoods aren't just right and the bar tilt dialed in.
Another trend I'm seeing (and following) is higher bars in relation to saddle height. It's a more comfortable ride and has little effect on aerodynamics for us common-folk. Rivendell has been preaching this forever and I believe they're more correct than crazy. They're extreme on a high front end set-up and position, but closer to reality than most American racers would admit. 2 cents.
My other comment is dura-ace hoods have more landing area than campy. My hands fit the jap stuff better but I would prefer campy. The answer to that is have both. TC
|look at mario!||the bull|
Mar 31, 2003 11:38 AM
|no spacers-long stem-but look at how high his seat is over the bars!Looks like it does not fit him huh? I realize this is a compact frame but it seriously does not look right!Not how I would set up my bike but its not like he does not know what he is doing,right!|
|Mario Rides a Traditional Frame||merckxman|
Mar 31, 2003 1:04 PM
|Mario's personal choice in a bike frame is a very small amount of slope in the top tube, 1% as I recall. Here is a good sideview of a Mario bike (hope this works, 1st time trying to post a photo). This is the bike he road at the World Championship.|
|Man - at least a 40cm stem! Also, non ergo bars, like Lance.||jtferraro|
Mar 31, 2003 4:19 PM
|How popular are non ergo bars and regular diameter bars(26mm) in the pro peloton?
|bar tilt and hood position||jw25|
Mar 31, 2003 11:40 AM
|Yeah, I've noticed that, too. I think part of it's to stretch the rider out a little more, especially if they went down a frame size for weight reasons.
Personally, I've been setting my levers so the lever bottom is even with the flats of the bars. Then I adjust bar tilt so the "ergo" portion is comfortable.
However, with my latest bars, which have a more acute angle from the tops to the ergo section, I've found the levers harder to reach. I haven't quite yet, since I can still get to them, but I think I'm going to drop the lever bodies about 10mm, and see if that helps.
I've also been messing with bar height, and I have to agree with Rivendell. I've got 15mm of spacers between stem and headset, with a -6 degree stem, and I'm very comfortable. I also find myself riding the drops more, and it's made standing (and my version of sprinting) in the drops more comfy as well.
It's a learning curve, finding out what works for you. Fun, though.
|Its hard to get things perfect when..||the bull|
Mar 31, 2003 11:44 AM
|its close you start getting comfy with it and dont want to mess with it anymore.I might tilt the bars up on mine a little more but I want to ride it like it is for a week and see what happens!|
Mar 31, 2003 1:41 PM
|From the pictures, your levers are pretty close to level which is OK. Deda bars won't work well when tilted up. The angle in the drop section will become too vertical.
Also, Campy levers are never tilted up like the pictures that you see of shimano levers. The design is different and campy levers simply won't tilt like shimano and still have the brake levers within reach.
Mar 31, 2003 2:07 PM
|what if I tillted them up just a tiny bit - as they are sloped down some should they be level?
Or slighty down or up? Seems like there are pretty good right now.Just going for perfect!
Mar 31, 2003 6:42 PM
|I've seen campy levers placed anywhere from a few degrees down to a few degrees up. The range is pretty narrow to keep the brake levers close to the drops. I've always found level to a few degrees upward tilt feels best and keeps the hands from sliding forward.
I also like to route both cables on the front side of the bar with the cables crossing in front of the bars to place the front derailleur cable on the right cable stop and the rear derailleur cable on the right cable stop. The cables are then crossed under the downtube. This routing prevents any contact of the cables with the head tube. It won't work well on all frames, depending on the location of the cable stops. If the cables rub the downtube heavily, that's not desirable either.
I found Deda bars to work best with the ends horizontal. Other brands, like ITM need an upward tilt to raise the levers higher.
|thanks C ! nm||the bull|
Apr 1, 2003 3:54 AM
Mar 31, 2003 6:19 PM
|deda bars don't tilt up well. campy levers and shifters give a perfect reach when set like in the picture. i have the same combo.|
|By the way- I hear Ya||the bull|
Mar 31, 2003 12:02 PM
|By the way- I hear Ya||ripSRV|
Apr 2, 2003 9:36 AM
|I figured someone out there would catch on. SRV, the Eddy Merckx of blues guitar and vocal. I saw him six times, the first time at a bar in St.Paul, MN. I didn't know what I was walking into that night and it changed me. That was about 83 or 84 and I've been hooked ever since. I still scrounge for bootleg stuff. Got any?|
|just some records nothing out of the ordinary.nm||the bull|
Apr 2, 2003 4:52 PM
|Take A Gander at the April Cycle Sport...||serbski|
Mar 31, 2003 7:32 PM
|...as it has a whole photo feature on the pro team's bikes and set-ups. Pay particular attention to the bikes/set-ups of: Mathew Hayman, Miguel Martinez and Cedric Herve. To my untrained eye I see fairly high control levers and a fair amount of spacers (check the Colnago) resulting in a saddle/bar drop that isn't too horrifyingly big. I may be seeing things but I was really pleased to see photos that showed some things that would be "stem police" violations if done by us mere mortals! Function over Form? Nice.|| |