RoadBikeReview.com's Forum Archives - General
rookie question §3(b)(i):turn screws, tune brakes, dropouts?(8 posts)
|rookie question §3(b)(i):turn screws, tune brakes, dropouts?||128|
Mar 21, 2003 8:37 AM
|The rear brake pad (slightly)rubs since I put the wheel back on. It didn't before.
Before re-adjusting the brake set I wondered if maybe I put the wheel in lopsided somehow? It looks tru when I spin it. But how do I know if those screws that come through the
dropouts are equal in length? Do they have to be? Should I be struggling against the rear der tension so much when I pull the wheel back against the 'dropout screws' if that's what they're called. My guess is my "method" putting the rear on is all wrong. The lbs guy was last to mess with it, so I figure I must have done something wrong.
I sense a eureeka moment real close by, yet fully obscured by my ignorance. Little help? Thanks.
|re: rookie question §3(b)(i):turn screws, tune brakes, dropouts?||_rt_|
Mar 21, 2003 8:51 AM
|did you check to make sure that your wheel is all the way back in the drops? you could have one side all the way in but the other side not quite all the way in.
another option is that your brake caliper shifted to one side slightly. you can simply realign it by hand-just push gently on it.
as for the correct method to dropping off the rear wheel: drop the chain down into the smallest cog on the back. release/unscrew your skewer & the wheel should drop right out. if not, tap the wheel at the top with the heel of your hand & it should drop out.
|Yeah. I did that but still, how do I know the little screws hav||128|
Mar 21, 2003 9:23 AM
|e not moved to different lengths? Maybe I should flush them to the drop and turn them in equal turns? Remove them? And yes, I did just move the brake with the gentle push, but after one squeeze they're right back where they were, one pad sliiiightly rubbing. It's not even that big aa issue, it's just annoying not knowing for certain if the wheel is properly re-seated.....
|hmmm, not sure which screws you're referring to...||_rt_|
Mar 21, 2003 9:33 AM
|sorry, i'm feeling dense today.
rt - it's friday ;-)
|Yeah. I did that but still, how do I know the little screws hav||DINOSAUR|
Mar 21, 2003 9:35 AM
|I've read that dropout screws actually serve no purpose at all. Then I've read that they are intended to change the wheel base of your rear wheel. My Colnago MXL was built with no drop out screws installed...perhaps someone with more tech knowledge can answer this question......if you have them -just unscrew them as far as they go so they are the same length on both sides of the dropouts....or just remove them...|
|I've read lots of stuff that isn't true||53T|
Mar 21, 2003 11:53 AM
|The drop out adjuster screws serve an important function: to align the real wheel, even if the rear triangle is not perfectly aligned. Traditonal hand made frames are not always exact on rear triangle alignment.
For a novice, there are many ways to put a real wheel in wrong. Movement of the drop out adjusters is not the most likely. The brake caliper may have been moved as a poster suggested. If it moves back after you adjust it by hand, try tightening the mounting bolt. You should be able to line up the rear wheel between the chainstays near the BB by eye. Use a ruler if you are truly anal. The axel may not be seated back against both dropout adjusters by the time you get the QR tightened.
|I've read lots of stuff that isn't true||128|
Mar 21, 2003 12:17 PM
|Thanks for the info. I'll re-do it by eye, firm up that mounting bolt and take it from there. Heading out of work early because it's warm! Finally.|
|re: rookie question §3(b)(i):turn screws, tune brakes, dropouts?||DINOSAUR|
Mar 21, 2003 9:06 AM
|This should have gone in the Component forum-but since you asked.... When you put the rear wheel in the dropouts pull up hard on the wheel and make sure that the axle is fully centered in the dropouts on both sides. Then tighten the quick release skewer and close it with a good amount of pressure but not overly tight. I close my skewers in the same position on both wheels. You should have the chain in the big chain ring in front and the small cog in the rear before you pulled off the wheel. Spin your wheel by hand and make sure it is not rubbing against the wheel rim on either side. Make sure that your brakes are centered and that your wheel is true. It's also a good idea to give your bike a quick check over after it's been worked on in a LBS (local bike shop) and make sure that everything is tight and cinched down.
Consider buying a book about bike maintenance such as Zinn And The Art Of Road Bike Maintenance. I can do most of the routine stuff on my bike. It saves time and money and it can be fun and rewarding. I'm sure that there are online bike maintenance websites that someone will recommend.
The only way you really learn is not being afraid of getting your hands dirty and having a good bike maintenance book at your side. I like to work on my bike while listening to classical music, it kind of goes hand in hand....