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Riding position(18 posts)

Riding positionLoughlin
Mar 17, 2003 8:14 AM
I am 6'1", and am riding on a 58cm compact geometry frame. I'm riding flat to rolling terrain. As I ride, I feel like I have a tendency to move forward on the saddle, which makes me feel "crowded" on the frame, i.e. too close to the bars. Also, I get a stiff neck after a relatively short time (35-40 minutes), which also seems to indicate that I'm not in a good position on the bike. I have levelled the saddle, and was fitted on this frame at the local shop. Any thoughts/suggestions on how to prevent these things? Thanks.
Lower the saddle. Others may tell you that your stem is toobill
Mar 17, 2003 8:36 AM
long or whatever, but please try this first. You're scrunching up because shifting forward on the saddle effectively shortens your leg reach.
Of this I am certain.
are you really sure of this?ok!nmthe bull
Mar 17, 2003 9:06 AM
bill or bullthe bull
Mar 17, 2003 9:12 AM
yes saddle height is the first thing I would check.
then the fore and aft postion of saddle
you need to do a search on here I just went over this stuff a while ago.
but 1.saddle height
2. for and aft of saddle or proper type of seatpost
3.fine tune stem lenght and hight approx. 2-3in below seat height.
4.handle bar width (same as shoulders)
search under the bull good luck!
march 14 th "couple of tips"nmthe bull
Mar 17, 2003 9:15 AM
The reason why fore-aft positioning works for this is becausebill
Mar 17, 2003 11:29 AM
moving the saddle forward shortens the leg length reach. The whole fore-aft plumbline-from-knee KOPS thing is based on little rationality. I'm sorry, but it is.
I don't think that it's total bunk -- I finally have convinced myself that a little bit of fore-aft positioning can help balance you in the cockpit a bit in terms of weighting your arms vs. butt and can help refine your cadence, because I think that there probably is something about getting up on your toes versus rocking back and using your hamstrings, but the difference is minimal and I think that you can get used to most of the differences. At best a refinement. The variations in proportions among people's femurs and lower legs and foot length and body weighting (top-heavy, bottom-heavy) are far greater than some little cm or two fore-aft position difference. Your leg length, on the other hand, is static, unchangeable, and critical.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
I save my breath for when I'm 85 I'll need it .nmthe bull
Mar 17, 2003 11:36 AM
Check KOPS, maybe move seat back and downContinental
Mar 17, 2003 9:18 AM
First, I would check to see if your knee is over the pedal spindle when the crank is parallel to the ground (KOPS position). Then consider moving the seat back a little bit so that the knee is slightly behind the pedal spindle when crank is parallel to ground. The pedaling action will then push you back and keep you from sliding forward on the seat. You may also need to lower your seat slightly when you move the seat back, because moving the seat back places your hips farther from the pedal.
saddle height done quick!the bull
Mar 17, 2003 9:35 AM
set the height so there is 5mm of clearance between heel and pedal at bottom of stroke.add a few millmeters for the type of clipless system you use.also raise the saddle a few millimeters if you have longer feet than normal for your height.then raise the saddle in 2mm increments until your hips start to rocking then lower saddle back down.good!
different method...C-40
Mar 17, 2003 9:44 AM
If you clip into the pedals and insure that your heel can drop 2-3cm below horizontal with your leg locked out at the bottom of the stroke, then you know the saddle is not overly high. This mehtod takes into full account the thickness of shoes and cleats.

Raising the saddle 2-3mm at a time got me into trouble years ago. If you have enough flexibility, the sky's the limit. You'll end up pedalling toes down with a low cadence before your hips rock.
I knew you would come riding up behind me!the bull
Mar 17, 2003 9:48 AM
you advice is good I will listen any time.
my version of kop!the bull
Mar 17, 2003 9:44 AM
sit on bike with cranks at 3-9 oclock postion
drop a line (dental floos works with a small wrench tied to bottom) from the frt forward off your knee cap.
it should touch the end of the crank arm.
most road racers,time trialers and climbers like for this line to fall behind the axle(better leverage in big gears).While track and crit riders like it in front(improves leg speed).
Just curious...wasabekid
Mar 17, 2003 10:11 AM
You said that the LBS fitted you on that bike right?

So, how long have you been riding that bike?

How many miles have you ridden this year so far?

How about last year?

Just curious...Loughlin
Mar 17, 2003 11:35 AM
I got this bike last July and have 1200 miles on it. I didn't ride any last year, as I just got back into riding after knee surgery. I have messed around with the saddle position somewhat, but have not thought to lower it. I will try this, and see how it goes. I definitely sense that a slightly more "stretched out" position (i.e. reaching a little more for the brake hoods or bar tops) would be more comfortable for me.
I have heard that for those who have knee problems...the bull
Mar 17, 2003 11:43 AM
caused by chondromalacia a saddle on the higher side can be therapeudic.also try speedplays they are easy on the knees.
Upper body pains can be a great clue to cockpit length issues --bill
Mar 17, 2003 11:52 AM
if your neck and traps hurt, that can be a sign that you're too cramped up -- you're pushing the bars away, which hurts after awhile. If your triceps hurt, that can be a sign that you're too stretched out (you're using too much muscle to sling your body between the saddle and the bars).
What did you ride before?Spoke Wrench
Mar 17, 2003 10:33 AM
If it's still possible to do, the first thing I would do would be to measure your old bike and see how the new one differs. If a rider has an existing bike that they are delighted with, I try to mimic the old bike's fit. If they have issues with the fit of the existing bike, then we discuss changes that might make it fit better.

I may be projecting because I'm not totally confident of my ability to eyeball a rider on a compact geometry frame. It seems to me that lots of people buy compact geometry bikes that are too big. I think that's the result of depending too greatly on stand over height as a litmas measure of bike sizeing. A too big bike would have a too long top tube so maybe a shorter stem will help.
Check saddle tilt....DINOSAUR
Mar 17, 2003 3:37 PM
It might have been level when the bike was new, but maybe it needs to be checked. I level mine out with a small plumbers level then tilt it back just a tad (so the bubble is touching the front line on the level). This will shift your weight back over your rear wheel if you are sliding forward. This is a real easy adjustment to make and you can't believe the difference it makes.

Reading over your info, you said you had an operation and have not ridden for awhile. This might be why you are experiencing little aches and pains. Shoulder and neck pains are common for people new to the sport and for mb'ers switching over to road bikes. It takes time to get all of the kinks out. Your position will change over time.

Also if you feel yourself moving forward; I move forward often when I'm in the flats, or sometimes when I am climbing. If you feel like you are spending a lot of time on the front of your saddle, move it forward a couple of mm's. Don't worry about your KOPS or whatever system you use to set your saddle, a couple of mm's is not enough to hurt anything. I set my saddle so I'm dead center when I'm riding on the hoods and I can shift forward or back depending on what I am doing.

I bet you problem can be solved with one little adjustment. But don't make too many changes at once or it will lead to injury (been there, done that).

If you were professionally fitted, how about contacting the LBS that fitted you? I swapped out stems three or four times on my old bike until I found one that worked. You want to be a little bit stretched out on a road bike...

Also-if you still have your old bike check and see if your new bike is set up the same way. I have my saddle in the same position on both of my bikes.

I feel your pain...