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What is the best chain lube for dry conditions?(8 posts)

What is the best chain lube for dry conditions?Morgan
Mar 5, 2003 10:42 AM
I know its been discussed before, but I am having trouble remembering. Also I recall someone mentioning home made chain lube. What is the mixture used to make the home brew chain lube?
re: What is the best chain lube for dry conditions?funknuggets
Mar 5, 2003 11:18 AM
I dont know the home brew, but in dry conditions have been pleased with White Lightning.

Chris
Prolink is what I've used....PEDDLEFOOT
Mar 5, 2003 11:44 AM
...in all conditions.It keeps the drive train clean and quiet with minimal maintainence.Wipe the chain after your ride and reaply every few weeks.
Doesn't your chain get black after awhile?fracisco
Mar 5, 2003 2:48 PM
I follow the application directions, but my chain still gets black after a few rides. I wipe everything down, but still need to degrease my chainrings/cogs/chain to keep them looking shiny.

What is the real secret?
PPP (proper ProLink procedure)Kerry
Mar 5, 2003 6:08 PM
Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink application and use:
1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
2 - sluice on ProLink while pedaling (forward is better) so that the chain starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
3 - run through all the gears several times, front and back.
4 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
5 - repeat 2-4 if the chain was really dirty

If you do this every 300 miles or so, you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain. However, no lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.
home brew...C-40
Mar 5, 2003 12:27 PM
The popular home brew is 3 to 5 parts mineral spirits to 1 part synthetic motor oil (any weight will do). This mix should be applied heavily to clean and lubricate the chain. I hold a paper towel folded to eight layers thick under the chain to collect the excess and wipe each section of the chain. Finish up with a dry paper towel wipedown. Always apply just after a ride to allow lots of drying time.

I lube every other ride and never have to remove the chain for cleaning. If the chain does get dirty, apply the lube twice and keep wiping.
AgreeGalibier
Mar 6, 2003 6:26 AM
I used to use Prolink, and it is good stuff, but I switched to homebrew and like homebrew better. My homebrew is a quart of motor oil added to a gallon of mineral spirits. This creates so much lube at so cheap a cost that I freely apply it to my chain, wiping off the excess and allowing it to dry between rides. Now, my drivetrain is as smooth and quiet as with Prolink, but it actually stays cleaner, because my frequent applications flush out the grit. With Prolink, I used to use a Park chain cleaner periodically, but that is no longer necessary. I suppose you could sluice on the Prolink as freely as I sluice on homebrew, but the cost will add up quickly. All in all, the homebrew is cheaper, easier, and just as good, IMO.
re: home brew...cyclopathic
Mar 6, 2003 7:39 AM
I tried home brew and realized it is no match to Pedro Synlube. Even heaviest weight synthetic (gear oil) I have tried was still attracting more dust in dry and didn't last as long in wet. Must confess if dried over night Synlube doesn't need re-applications on 400mi rides it is that good.

Now the old school guy I know always adds paraffin to home brew, this is worth trying..