|Torque setting for seatpost clamp?||Fez|
Feb 26, 2003 1:24 PM
|What torque setting is good for a seatpost clamp? Frame is Titanium with a welded on seat collar.
It seems very fickle. Too little torque and the post slips 1 cm over the course of the ride. Too much and I've broken the campy bolt for the umteenth time. Any recommendations?
P.S. I never have any problem with my other bike, which has a removable seat post clamp.
|what kind of seatpost is it?||the bull|
Feb 26, 2003 4:05 PM
|Does it still slip with a different post?|
|what kind of seatpost is it?||Fez|
Feb 26, 2003 6:57 PM
|It slips with a cheap American Classic as well as a with a Thomson Elite.|
|re: Torque setting for seatpost clamp?||12x23|
Feb 26, 2003 5:34 PM
|Uh, dunno 'bout how many Nm or in/lbs. I had this problem with a L'speed Classic a couple of years ago and they repaired it under warranty. No matter how tight the post would slip. I never tried a shim, went the warranty route. Litespeed was excellent in taking care of this.
A couple of month's ago there was an article on the VN Tech Talk forum about using your favorite drink can as shim stock to solve this and other problems including the early 9-sp Dura-Ace cassettes that had a couple of spacers that were a little out of spec. I looked several weeks ago and it was still there .. good info.
I also had this problem with a Masterlight. My (former) lbs reamed the seattube out "too good" and the Campy bolt would break before I could get the post tight. I replaced it with a SRP ti bolt and used the torque setting I got off the VN Tech Talk Board .. "damn tight." Problem solved.
|Here it is||12x23|
Feb 26, 2003 5:40 PM
Feb 26, 2003 6:56 PM
|Did they repair the seat collar? Or did they replace the frame?
In my case, the collar is welded on and Litespeed told me it could be repaired, but I would have to strip it of all parts and send it via a dealer. I would like to avoid this hassle, if possible.
|love to think about stuff!||the bull|
Feb 26, 2003 7:28 PM
|fez sounds good I would try his Idea.
If that did not work you could burl up the seatpost a litte
to make it grab like sandpaper.I think I would send mine back to get fixed right.
Feb 27, 2003 3:39 AM
|They repaired the seat collar. I sent it back late in the year and had it back in a couple of months. It it's the only bike I'd try the shim idea first, then send it back November-December.|
|just a thought||tarwheel|
Feb 27, 2003 6:07 AM
|I was having a similar problem on my bike, breaking seat post binder bolts. Someone on this forum (Nessism, I believe) suggested that the bolt might be a tad bit too long and to try adding a washer or two. I gave that a try and haven't broken a bolt since then. What happened was that the bolt was bottoming out before it could fully tighten, and then would snap when I tried to tighten it down enough. With the extra washer, it can fully tighten without overstressing the bolt. Also make sure the binder bolt is lubed, as that allows it to tighten better.|
|File and sand||mhinman|
Feb 27, 2003 12:14 PM
|The bolt may be bottoming out against the other side of the collar, which means that any tightening you do after that will not tighten the grip on the seatpost. Remove the binder bolt and grind down the nut end with a file or dremel so that it doesn't bottom out as quickly. You can also can also sand the inside of the seattube to remove paint and create microscopic teeth. It is important that when you do this you go around, not up and down, you can also lightly rough the seatpost, especially if it is Ti, as that seems to be a bit more slippery than Aluminium.|| |