RoadBikeReview.com's Forum Archives - General


Archive Home >> General(1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 )


Question for MB-1 and you high mileage folks...(9 posts)

Question for MB-1 and you high mileage folks...rwbadley
Jan 23, 2003 11:42 AM
You guys (and gals) that are doing 10k plus/year must have some input on components that 'go the distance'.

What are some of your favorites for durability and/or hassle free service? Value?

I know everything has a service life limit. What stuff really grabs your admiration for build quality?

I'll start with:
Phil Wood hubs
Sram chains
Panaracer and some Continental tires
Sturmey Archer three speed hubs
Suntour grease guard pedals

What else?

RW
Steel is real.MB1
Jan 23, 2003 12:01 PM
Steel frames and forks-Miss M's Rivendell my Bianchi
Shimano Components-DA hubs, Ultegra drivetrain with XT rear derailleur
Performance Forte Kevlar tires
Brooks Saddles
Home built wheels so I can fix them with DT spokes
Mavic Rims
Kool Stop brake pads
re: Question for MB-1 and you high mileage folks...cyclopathic
Jan 23, 2003 12:12 PM
Lube has to alot with chain life. Everyone has favorite mine is Pedro Synlube; you can do 200-400mi w/o reapplication. Plus chain life is twice longer.
Tires? Cheap. Had good luck with Micheline Axial Sports, Performance.

Maintenance? Scrub your rims/clean brake pads from time to time rims will last much longer.

Hubs? I am not fond of cartridge bearing hubs, cone and cup are easier to service and rebuild IMHO.

you might consider to buy a back up training bike steel used or low end. It would be comfy on centuries/doubles and will save your main bike.

and I won't even start on saddle..
re: Question for MB-1 and you high mileage folks...rwbadley
Jan 23, 2003 12:49 PM
Good tips,
I like you prefer steel MB. Tough stuff, with good character.

Cyclopathic- Re: backup bike. I have a back up for the main bike, a backup for the commuter, a backup for the other main bike, a back up for the back up and a back up for that. A fixie, (no back up) a tandem, a recumbent... well you get the idea.

With this amount of 'bikage', (all of them are ridden,) only one or two get higher miles. I am not getting enough miles on any one bike for serious problems to show up. 'Tho I spend a bit of time keeping them all on the road, if one fails I'll just go off on the other one till I have time to fix the problem.

I like your comment about cup & cone. Good stuff

Thanks

RW
This was my first 10K year.Uncle Tim
Jan 23, 2003 12:46 PM
Although I've been averaging about 6K per year, this was the first year I really pushed myself. I think I've learned enough over the years that I had a very light maintenance year although my mileage spiked.

1) Build your own wheels and keep an eye on them. My Ultegra hub/Mavic Open Pro combo (3x lacing) has been a great success.

2) Rolf Vector Comp wheels. I still have these as originals on my Trek OCLV with 12K or so on them. I've had to rebuild them two or three times but I've never serviced the hubs and they still perform like new. But they are relatively heavy and harsh riding, so when they are shot I will replace them with a homebuilt wheel.

3) Michelin Axial Pros - I've gotten unbelievable life out of these things. Yes, a couple have died when they hit some nasty metal, but most of them last a very long time. It's all I ride on.

4) Dura Ace and Ultegra Bottom brackets. A DA bottom bracket will make a good bike better, just service it from time to time. If you get a good Ultegra BB, it could last many, many miles.

5) Shimano Ultegra chain. Much better than SRAM. I liked the power link, but the chain just sounded dry all of the time and was not smooth.

6) Ultegra shifters can fail. I had a right shifter (rear cogs) fail at 7,000 miles. Go DA if you can afford it.

7) A good aluminum frame with good wheels and a proper fit can be an excellent long mileage bike. My longest rides of the year were on an aluminum frame. The "aluminum is too harsh" chestnut is misleading.
I only did 8K last year, but have done a lot more previouslycrosscut
Jan 23, 2003 9:05 PM
I've been riding for about 200 years. I've done about 10,000 miles a year for a long time. Components have changed a lot in the last 10 years, have actually gotten better in some cases, so here's my take:

The best rim ever made, but on the heavy side if you're racing, but incredibly strong and will run for thousands of miles without truing: Mavic CXP30

The best headset. Period. Install and forget: Chris King

The best hubs. I've never sprung for Phil Woods, but I've had excellent service from Ultegra and DA hubs. I'm sure the Campy equivalent is equally good. I get 20,000 miles on Shimano hubs with just normal servicing.

BB. The tried and true Tange or Shimano UN72 is the best BB for the money. Again, install and service once a year. Replace when necessary, but they only cost $20.

Crankset. One of my Sagino cranksets is 25 years old. Just replace rings about every 4-5 years.

Chains. I like the Ultegra chains. About 5000 miles on these, with my homebrew lube of 4 parts mineral spirits to one part synthetic 30w motor oil. Good stuff, keeps the chain clean and lubed.

Brifters. Newer Ultegras are nicer, without the rattle. DA is very efficient, smooth, long lasting. Bar-Ends are the most durable, and actually more precise.

Front Derailleur. Any ol' thing works well. It just moves the chain. Keep it clean and lubed, and most work flawlessly.

Rear Derailleur. Like MB1, I'm partial to XTs, but I've used Ultegras and DAs also, and all of them perform flawlessly for a zillion miles. More importantly is your cabling techniques. If cables are installed properly, shifting problems are minimalized.

Frames. After riding aluminum and steel bikes over the years (never owned carbon or ti, but would like to try them one day), I've come to the conclusion that all modern frames ride pretty good. I'm biased toward steel, but then again, I don't race. It's the frame designer that is most important, not the materials. Any arguements about frame material is just silly. One steel frame I have is 25 years old, has no rust, but I keep it clean, the paint touched up and store it inside when not riding. I have, from what I've estimated, over 38,000 miles on this frame. Everybody gets caught in rains, particularly in touring. At the end of the ride, wipe down the bike, lube it, and it will be fine. Framesaver stuff helps too.

Just pick the best components you can afford. Some of the cheaper components actually are more durable. When you think about it, a derailleur here or a BB there, won't break the bank, so just install the stuff and ride and ride and ride....
re: Question for MB-1 and you high mileage folks...mickey-mac
Jan 23, 2003 9:13 PM
Although I'm not doing 10,000 plus, I did close to 9000 in 2001 and a little over 7000 last year. The two items that top my list for longevity at a reasonable price: Michelin Axial Carbons and Cinelli Cork Ribbon. I'm regularly getting 4000 plus miles from the tires with very few flats. I recently changed my Cinelli ribbon after 13,000 miles. After a lot of riding it was still serviceable and I probably could have squeezed another 2000 or so miles out of it.
King Headset....biknben
Jan 24, 2003 5:42 AM
I wouldn't consider myself a high mileage rider compared to many here. That being said, I have a Chris King headset that has seen thousands of MTB miles. It is about to be put on its 4th mountain bike. The only time I've ever done anything to it was when I switched it from one frame to another. Once it is on the bike I've never had to touch it.

When your components outsurvive your frames (3 times), you know you've found something good.
My views.macalu
Jan 24, 2003 7:21 AM
I ride about 8-9K miles per year, close enough to qualify for high mileage. Anyway, this is too good a topic to pass on.

Shifters: I use downtube shifters. Campy 8-speed indexed on my Vitus and Nuovo Record friction on my Macalu. More simple is more reliable and lasts longer. About 40k on my index shifters. I have no beef with ergo/STI, but believe dt or barends will outlast them and not leave you stranded.

Hubs: I've had good luck with cartridge on the front, but better usage with cupandcone on the rear. Right now I'm riding Campy athena and veloce 8 speed rears on both bikes. These hubs keep on going with little maintanence.

Chain: SRAM, whatever model fits your drivetrain. Economical and you can't beat that removeable link.

Wheels: Build your own with a tensiometer. I like Mavic rims: open pro or ma3. Easy to build, true, and mount/remove tires. Any cheap tube. I really like the Performance Forte Kevlar. Good price, few flats.

Front deraillier: Anything that moves your chain. Even if you like integrated shifters, a dt on the front keeps life simple and makes truing the fd easy.

Rear d: whatever shifts your chain. Put your money into hubs.

Frame: I like aluminum for the weight, availability of low cost frames, and the ride quality doesn't bother me. You do feel the road, though.

Saddle: This is important! I have enjoyed the San Marco Rolls and Strada. I have a Ritchey Vector on one bike now, a gift, and its not bad. Many people I've met swear by the Flite Ti. You need to find what works for you.