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Clydesdale recommendations...(6 posts)

Clydesdale recommendations...seyboro
Jan 23, 2003 6:34 AM
Well, it's snowing in eastern NC and today's ride is still an hour away. This seems like a good time to throw out some "big boy" recommendations. As clydesdales (myself: 6'4", 235lbs), our kind is often faced with difficult choices, when making buying decisions. For some odd reason, shops will just not let us test ride anything until we brake it.
Well, fret not, big brethren, here are my personal choices. If you can add something, please, feel encouraged to do so. All the components below have had a flogging time on at least 6 months or 5000 miles and have held up to all abuse I could throw at them:
1. frames: -cannondale caad3, 2 frames, still running
-litespeed palmares, stiff, strong, #1 for me
2. groups: -shimano ultegra, replaced shifters w/DA ("the
rattle"), everything else is running strong -
no problems
-shimano dura ace, no problems, no wear after
5 years
-campagnolo record 10, no problems, new chain
after 4500 miles, narrow chain and carbon
componentry running strong
3. bars: (46cm, oto)
-ritchey pro, stiff
-bontrager race lite, stiffer
4. stems:(120mm)
-cinelli alter, very stiff, cool factor!!
-stella azzurra razzo, ultra cool factor!
5. seat posts:
-thompson, indestructible, great adjustability,
go easy on the bolts, though
-stella azzurra monza carbon, tough and
elegant, extra easy on the mag/ti bolts
6. saddles:
-geometry pro ti, no contest here, one worn
after 4 1/2 years and 35.ooo miles, bought 3
more
7. tires:
-michelin axial pro, good wear, OK ride
-conti GP, great ride, OK wear
-conti GP 4-season, best all-around for me
8. wheels:
-Rolf vector pro, relatively light and strong
-Chris king/ambrosio focus 36R/32F, strongest
-record/mavic cxp30 32R/32F, straight butter
quite heavy, though
-ultegra, cxp 33, oldie, but goodie

Of course, the list wouldn't be complete without listing the failures:
1. Mavic Ksyrium SSC, pulled 4 spokes through the rear hub, very expensive mistake, crappy customer service
2. open pro rims, forget 'em, brethren!
3. ...or for that matter, anything with less than 32 spokes
4. wipperman 9 speed chain: ripped it in half, and not at the link either!
5. cinelli eubios bar - way too flexy
6. Sell Italia Flite saddle, for lightweights only

Well, that's it for now. The new Zipp 404 Team Clydesdale wheels are on the way and I'll keep you posted. I hope, you all have to add some more or let me know, if you disagree to the above.
wheel recommendationDougSloan
Jan 23, 2003 7:56 AM
Just got this in the email this morning from RBR newsletter (http://www.roadbikerider.com):

2. UNCLE AL'S RANT: Broken Spokes

DEAR UNCLE AL: I have a recurring problem with broken spokes
in the Ritchey Pro Aero rear wheel on my 2001 Specialized
Sirrus Pro. The first spoke broke before I logged my first 100
miles. Two others broke in the next 1,000 miles.

Because I weigh about 215 pounds, I've wondered whether I'm
too heavy for my bike. It's been suggested by shop mechanics
that the problem might essentially be "luck of the draw,"
but I find that explanation lacking.

My rides are now undermined by the constant worry of
breaking a spoke. Are there road wheels considered to be
very strong that would be a better choice? -- Miguel K.

UNCLE AL FIRES BACK: A gold valve adapter to everyone who
guesses what Miguel is going to hear. If you've been reading
my rants, you know how often roadies write in about wheel
problems.

So it bears repeating: This isn't rocket science!

A big, 215-pound dude needs to be on wheels with 36-hole
rims and 14-gauge spokes laced 3-cross. Better yet, 4-cross.
And the wheels should be built by a specialist who can
string 'em up at least as good as I can.

Miguel, you and I weigh the same. I ride roads so crappy
that I'm afraid everything is going to break. I built my
36-spoke, 4-cross wheels onto Phil hubs with Mavic Open Pro
rims. They are totally unaffected by the pavement and even
the non-pavement -- I ride them on dirt roads, too.

When I want to "go light," I ride my set of 32-spoke,
3-cross wheels built on Mavic Open Ceramic rims. They've
been pounded mercilessly and have no problems, either.

Last year, I retired a pair of wheels I'd built in 1981. I trained
on them and raced on them for 20 years. Never broke a spoke,
not one. But finally the rims began cracking at the eyelets.

Make sure you find a wheelbuilder who has lots of experience
with big guys and/or tandems. Insist on 14-gauge, 2.0-mm DT
or Wheelsmith stainless spokes.

Your wheels should not be a factor in deciding whether to
ride. That's up to the weather or your wife. Avoid all the
cute, aero, low-spoke-count wheels and you will once again
enjoy riding without fear and loathing.

Bottom line: If you are breaking spokes just riding along,
you've got a bad wheel with poor spoke tension and/or poor-quality
components. My rule is to rebuild a wheel once three spokes
have broken. If you disregard this, you will be struck by lightning
or chased down the road by a pack of wild dogs, or both.
love those cxp33s...CurtSD
Jan 23, 2003 8:55 AM
I'm a semi-clydesdale at 205 lbs. Over the past year I've been using two sets of wheels: one with ultegra hubs/32 spokes/cxp33 rims, and one with DuraAce hubs/32front/36rear spokes/Open Pro rims. The Open Pros need to be trued every month or two, but I've never touched the cxp33s once and they're as true as the day I got them. The rear Open Pro rim started making the dreaded clicking noises, so I'll be having it rebuilt - this time with a cxp33.
re: Clydesdale recommendations...BikeViking
Jan 23, 2003 9:29 AM
Speaking as a 6'3" "Clydesdale-ette", I have put 3400 miles on my Bontrager Race-Lites with nary a hiccup. Superb bulletproof wheels. The Conti GP3000's barely made 1700 miles before the sidewall cracks started looking bad. the Specialized BG Pro magnesium is a wonderful saddle for bigger fellas.

However, I will not be going any lighter in the wheel dept...that would be sorely tempting Fate!

Scott
re: Clydesdale recommendations...mleptuck
Jan 23, 2003 11:36 AM
To be honest, I've (6'3", 240#) have had great success with the 16-spoke Shimano aero wheels (WH-R535) that came with my 2001 Raleigh R700.

I put about 1500 miles on them last Summer (with one minor crash) with NO problems. The wheels haven't gone even slightly out of true.

The stock tires are Michelin Axial Pros, and over that mileage I haven't had any flats/cuts/excessive wear whatsoever. I find them reasonable soft, but surprisingly durable for the softness they seem to have.

No complaints about the Ultegra group on the bike, other than needing to seriously torque the crankarms back down after about 300 miles...

The Al frame (7005) is light enough for me (it's easier to justify me losing a couple of pounds off my fat ass than paying exponentially more money for a frame that saves me a couple of lbs.), and stiff enough to stand up to a hammering while I stand up and climb the hills.

Overall, I'm quite surprised it's all held up so well, especially when the whole bike cost me about $1100.
This is what works for me. Doug's post is truthbigrider
Jan 23, 2003 12:10 PM
I did 4000 last year a 6'2" and 240. This is what works for me.

CXP33 3x 14g spokes alloy nipples
ultegra and/or 105
A lemond zurich
A trek 5200
performance forte kevlar belted tires 700X23
nashbar 48cm handlebars
sell san marco technico dynamica saddle
specialized mtb shoes(cheap stiff and you can walk in them)

Here is what I didn't like

44cm wide bars
bianchi cdi(good but not close to the zurich)
michelin tires (look at them and they cut)
dura-ace rear hubs(weight savings make freebody wear quicker)
32 spoke rims (pulled nipples through two rear wheels)
shimano 535s (low spoke, broke after 1500 miles)
road shoes (nike, narrow, nasty)
Cannondale CAAD 4 (smooth on the small bumps only, felt it after 35 miles and on rough roads)