|More fit questions... standover revisited.||funknuggets|
Jan 6, 2003 8:17 AM
|I posted a question last week regarding std seatpost height on non-compact frames and asked a question regarding standover height that wasnt addressed. So my question... for non-compact frames, what is a good standard for standover height on a properly fit frame? What is too much and what is too little. Thanks in advance.
|re: More fit questions... standover revisited.||castrello|
Jan 6, 2003 8:27 AM
|Take your inseam in centimeters and subtract about 5 cm (or 2 inches). That´s a good place to start looking. For example; I use a 58 cm center to center frame with 84.2 cm SO and my inseam is 89-90 cm. That gives me a pretty neutral saddle to bar drop (I use a threaded stem).|
|agreed: between about 3-6 cm.||bill|
Jan 6, 2003 8:33 AM
|re: More fit questions... standover revisited.||lonebikeroftheapocalypse|
Jan 6, 2003 8:36 AM
|I've always felt that standover height was not a good measure of how a bike fits. Its improtant in MTB's and for |
children's bikes, but not so for a road bike. How often are you standing over it anyway? I spend way more time
riding mine than standing over it. Seems like if the bike fits while your riding it and you can get off of it and not crush anything, you should be OK. Just my $.02.
|I've always thought the same thing..||Dave Hickey|
Jan 6, 2003 9:57 AM
|If everything else fits, having too much standover isn't a real problem. Standing still requires tilting the bike.|
|re: More fit questions... standover revisited.||Matt Britter|
Jan 6, 2003 9:44 AM
|Having top tube room IMO is a must, for the simple fact that you can aways control where you are going to stop. It could be a shoulder less curb and that little extra drop saves the jewels AND lets you get a good footing. Having said that, 2~2.5" (or 3-4 fingers) is usually plentity of room.
|re: More fit questions... standover revisited.||Trent in WA|
Jan 6, 2003 10:08 AM
|It all depends on your level of fitness, your intended use of the bike or style of riding, and how much drop you want from your saddle to the handlebars. The old-school rule of thumb of 1" standover clearance works well if you want your bars anywhere from dead level to 2". More standover clearance (assuming we're talking about a bike with a level top tube) will generally entail more drop to the bars. I wouldn't worry too much about crushing any plumbing--it's another one of those things folks fear that very rarely happens (and that won't necessarily be prevented by having more standover height anyway).
|I agree with those who say it's almost irrelevant . . .||Look381i|
Jan 6, 2003 10:24 AM
|If you have the top tube, seat tube and stem lengths, saddle-to-bars drop and saddle position dialed in for your riding style, then you'll likely have four or more inches of seatpost showing and some standover clearance. But even if you don't have much, it's no big deal. When you stand, it will be usually be with one foot clipped in, one on the ground and the bike tilted. If you come off suddenly, it will be to one side or the other, not straddling the top tube with the bike perfectly upright and with your feet dangling in the air.
For my (average) body proportions, I start with about 0.65 of my inseam length for a seat tube length and work from there to find a good frame fit. Frame geometry will affect the other measurements significantly. Except for the first ten-speed I bought in 1971, when bike shops fitted people that way, I don't think I've ever even considered standover clearance.
|Thanks to all...||funknuggets|
Jan 6, 2003 11:31 AM
|Exellent advice everyone. Sounds like I wont have as much clearance as I would like, but sounds acceptable.
Fondriest Frame on its way to me. Thanks!!!