|oil that doesn't get all black and gunky?||trekkie1|
Nov 28, 2002 8:37 AM
|Any oil that lubes well but doesn't get everything so gunked up? I've tried triflow, wax based (they are sort of clear, but build up over time), dry lube, and nothing really seems to "do it all." Any recommendations? Thanks.|
Nov 28, 2002 8:50 AM
|I've had great luck with Prolink.You still have to wipe the chain after the ride but you really should do that anyway.It doesn't seem to attract as much dirt and dust as Triflow which is another lube I like.The best thing to do is probably clean the drive train every week. Then the dirt doesn't have a chance to build up.|
|Prolink's no miracle...||C-40|
Nov 28, 2002 9:49 AM
|Unless you use a very small amount of Prolink, the chain will quickly become as black as with any other wet lube.
This high-priced stuff is mostly mineral spirits with a small amount of lubricant.
When the Prolink bottle is empty, try mixing a batch of "clean and lube". 4 parts mineral spirits to 1 part synthetic motor oil. It will work about the same as prolink and cost only a few cents.
With "clean and lube" as I like to call it, I apply the mixture very heavily with an old Prolink bottle. A paper towel folded 8 layers thick is used to catch excess and wipe the chain. The heavy application cleans the chain as it's being lubed, eliminating the need to ever remove the chain. If the chain is particularly dirty, a second application can be made. A final wipe down with a dry towel removes as much as possible from the exterior of the chain.
The mixture must be applied long before riding to allow time for the mineral spirits to evaporate, leaving only a small amount of oil. If "clean and lube" is applied just be before a ride, it will create a big mess.
|Prolink's no miracle...||koala|
Nov 28, 2002 11:40 AM
|What kind of wear are you getting with your lube?|
Nov 28, 2002 3:42 PM
|except I call mine Homebrew and squirt it out of a spent Renu contact solution bottle. I always 'do the lube' after I ride (~200 miles between lubings) using pretty much the same procedure, leaving plenty of time for evaporation.|
|say its not true ... but it has MFR technology!||DaveG|
Nov 28, 2002 5:02 PM
|I've been using using 3-to-1 mineral spirits to Mobil 1 the last two seasons to good success. Prolink might very well work OK but the whole MFR thing seems like too much snake oil to me.|
|Prolink will work||deHonc|
Nov 28, 2002 2:25 PM
|If you follow the directions, Prolink WILL not build up black goo - this is a fact - my chain is silver not black - Prolink will go black on your chain if you don't remove any other lub that was present initially - then use only Prolink - and your chain will stay non black/goo covered etc. I clean my chain once a week and it stays completely black free. |
Sorry to disagree with others but my drivechain is proof for me.
Nov 28, 2002 3:48 PM
|Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink application and use:
1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
2 - sluice on ProLink while pedaling (forward is better) so that the chain starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
3 - run through all the gears several times, front and back.
4 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
5 - repeat 2-4 if the chain was really dirty
If you do this every 300 miles or so, you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain. However, no lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.
Nov 28, 2002 8:36 PM
|Kerry - Dead right, one does need to pay attention to the entire drive chain in terms of cleaning. My experience mirrors yours, get the other stuff off (other lubes), use Prolink, clean as per your post and bingo - clean gunk free drivechain. Its not rocket science, just requires some effort. After a while, the entire drive chain becomes cleaner between maintanance, and the entire process becomes self perpetuating. If it works for us it has to work for others.|
Nov 28, 2002 8:39 PM
|Kerry has the procedure down pat, but he's using the wrong stuff. Homebrew (4 parts oderless mineral spirits to 1 part synthetic motor oil) works as well (better, actually) than Prolink, and is a hell of a lot cheaper.
If you follow Kerry's method, you will always have a pretty clean chain, but never a perfectly bright and shiny one. But it's easy, and you don't have to remove it.
|The same procedure works quite with with Air Tool Oil||dzrider|
Nov 29, 2002 7:58 AM
|The stuff costs $2.99 for a 16 oz bottle. I'm much more concerned about having a silent chain than a silver one, but, with a quick wipe after most rides, the chain stays pretty clean and free of black stuff between the links. A friend who uses it says the only problem is feeling a little silly having such a big bottle.|
|try not to put so much on||benja15|
Nov 28, 2002 6:29 PM
|i beleive that if you do not overapply- like every other ride
and also clean your chain (with a clamp on chain cleaner) monthly you can prevent alot of buildup