|help spec'ing a light climbing bike ...||853|
Sep 25, 2002 11:59 AM
|My friend has asked me for help in spec'ing a lightweight climber (He speaks little english and has no access to the internet)He works at the local bike shop and of course gets awesome deals on most any products.
He is a first year Cat.1/2 racer and at 165lbs can climb w/ the best of them. This year he competed in the Glendora Mountain road race here in SoCal(20+ mile hill climb w/ no warm-up)and finished top ten behind the best climbers in SoCal all using a 20lb. Colnago Ovalmaster/with heavy Mavic
Cosmic Carbons.(this shows that it realy isn't about the bike, but the rider)
Anyways, he still loves cool new toys and wants to build a climber.
He was thinking: frame - litespeed ghisallo
group - already has Campy Record
(cranks Campy carbon)
Bar and stem - Cinelli Ram
everything is still up in the air. I will let you guys know what he gets and post pictures and weight when complete.
It's fun spending money that isn't mine.
|39X25 SS with no brakes.||czardonic|
Sep 25, 2002 12:28 PM
|Who needs brakes when you are climbing? Should be plenty light, and perfect for the type of race your describing.
(I know. Not helpful.)
Sep 25, 2002 12:37 PM
|To be USCF legal you must have frt/rr brakes.
Not sure about 1 speed though. If the course was a constant grade, one speed would be a great idea.
|Good point. Forgot about that. (nm)||czardonic|
Sep 25, 2002 1:03 PM
|But on the single speed issue. . .||czardonic|
Sep 25, 2002 1:15 PM
|. . .without a constant grade it would be a handicap.
However, say you ran one ring on the front and a handfull of strategically selected cogs instead of a full 9 or 10. In addition to losing the weight of 1 ring and several cogs, you could forgo one of the STI/Ergo shifters for a brake only-lever, and drop the front derailler and required cables.
Seems like you could lose a fair amount of weight if you're building a strictly climbing only bike. There have got to be at least a few courses that this approach could be applied to.
|we weren't thinking about such drastic changes||853|
Sep 25, 2002 1:40 PM
|just a well spec'ed light fully geared bike that could be used for road racing w/ climbs.
Another thing, how reliable would something this light be, I'm prety sure that he is producing much more torque than my pedals will ever experience. I would hate to spec something that would snap in two costing him a race or worst yet, some teeth.
|Just supposing here.||czardonic|
Sep 25, 2002 2:01 PM
|Or actually, I was wondering if anyone had tried this. There must be at least a few races where 18 or 20 speeds is overkill. Frankly, a 10 speed cassette sounds like overkill for any application. It seems like in such a weight concious discipline there would be more effort put into selecting only the gears required for the task at hand.
As for reliability, this would be a way to shave grams withough having to go with super fragile parts. Theoretically, it would be just as durable as any standard set-up.
Nevertheless, for a true all around bike this is moot.
Sep 25, 2002 12:40 PM
|He works in a bike shop, can climb with the best of them, races Cat 1/2 and has no opinions. Uh-huh.|
|He has to many options and opinions||853|
Sep 25, 2002 1:08 PM
|Just wants to narrow it down. Not only that he is pretty recent to this country,try to get your hands on current info and products from a third world country.
Where most nice bikes that they have are our hand me downs.
|grzy mnky=grzy? nm||DougSloan|
Sep 25, 2002 1:44 PM
|But of course!||jtolleson|
Sep 25, 2002 5:28 PM
|It must be so! Where else can we get the plain spoken truth!
Frankly, I had the same reaction. A Cat 1/2 racer employed at an LBS with obvious access to tons of expertise and pro deal pricing asks a friend to put the question out on an internet bulletin board? That's just implausible.
Doesn't mean we can't have a nice chat about climbing bikes, and in that regard it is hard to say no to OCLV.
Sep 25, 2002 7:07 PM
|grzy used to be grzmnky, I think, but never grzy mnky. I'm suspicious.
Also suspicious of this Cat 1/2 (which is it?). I agree, no way the guy needs our help on bikes.
Nonetheless, if it were me, I'd pick a 5900, DeRosa UD, Calfee Dragonfly, or EV4 and throw on DA with a front downtube shifter, DA parts with SRP bolts, Alien Carbon, SLR, The Stem, Easton carbon bars, and Zipp 303's with Tufo tubulars. My guess is about 14.5 pounds.
|I'm tired of trying to explain...||853|
Sep 25, 2002 8:33 PM
|If you guys don't believe then I really don't care. He raced as an elite in mexico which means he has a mexican licence and is allowed to race as a Cat.1 here in the states
This was his first season racing here in that category.
Oh well, thanks for the help.
|Then stop. Posts take on a life of their own once you post them||Scot_Gore|
Sep 26, 2002 3:40 AM
|get use to it. You don't have to reply to every response. If people misunderstand your intent or message, so be it. Cherry pick the info you like and let the sleeping dogs lie.
|No need to take offense...||jtolleson|
Sep 26, 2002 10:41 AM
|it was just an observation that he probably has access to some of the best racing and cycling advice around, both from his working at a shop and being an experienced racer.
But as I said, discussing nice light climbing bikes is a perfectly valid way for us to spend our time.
Sep 25, 2002 8:34 PM
|I'm tired of trying to explain...|
Sep 25, 2002 12:50 PM
|I assume he's high-but-not unreasonable budget. also, I think the claimed weights of an ITM The or Deda Mag stem + Prima 199, Kestrel or Easton bars will be lower than the Ram (~375g, right?).
USE Alien Carbon/Ti post.
one of the SLR saddles, unless he can get his hands on one of those AX saddles.
|I was also thinking 303's||853|
Sep 25, 2002 1:13 PM
|and USE carbon post. Thanks on the bar/stem idea.
He already has an SLR.
What tubies would be best for this bike?
What fork to use?
Any other insider weight saving tricks?
|campagnolo hyperon, amazing wheels nm||mike r|
Sep 25, 2002 1:53 PM
|Lose five pounds. Cheapest climbing solution. nm||Spunout|
Sep 25, 2002 2:52 PM
|when you race at this level you are already at optimum weight||853|
Sep 25, 2002 4:04 PM
|for the race he was at 160 lbs.
he hovers between 160 and 165.
he has already tried to race at 155 with very bad results.
Their comes a time when you cannot lose anymore before becoming counter productive.
Besides the topic is light weight bikes not how to lose weight.
|I get tired of that trite response, too nm||DougSloan|
Sep 25, 2002 7:08 PM
Sep 25, 2002 7:15 PM
|If you want a really freaky-light but still rideable fork go for the Storck Stilletto or Alpha-Q Sub-3|
|re: help spec'ing a light climbing bike ...||homegrown2004|
Sep 25, 2002 6:39 PM
|Frame: Fondriest Don Racer Lite
Wheels: American classic custom
Groupo: Campy Record (Cant put Dura Ace on a Fondriest) If you get a frame that allows you to put a downtube shifter on for the front der. do it, integrated shifter/brakes (STI) are heavy. Lance does it so it must be cool right?
Stem: ITM The Stem
Bars: Easton EC 90?
Pedals: Speedplay X-1 w/ aluminum plates
Seat/post: SLR/USE though I hear the USE clamp is a pain in the butt
If you really want to get exotic throw in a mix of Tune, FRM, Extralite, and AX Lightness parts in there. That way you will climb fast and get the ladies. (www.tune.de, www.frmbike.com, www.extralite.com, www.ax-lightness.com)
Hope this helps!
|Actually your friend is a 3.||JS|
Sep 25, 2002 6:44 PM
|I've raced against him. That race really wasn't indicative of pure climbing prowess, it was very tactfull and didn't include about 30 So.Cal. guys that are scary good climbers, not counting the masters monsters. For a better indication of climbing prowess check the uphill TT times of the Pomona valley stage race conducted on the same course.|| |