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Glueless patches: Is it just me, or...?(15 posts)
|Glueless patches: Is it just me, or...?||cory|
Sep 17, 2002 8:03 AM
|This has come up before, but I noticed in the post below about what tools to carry, there were recommendations for glueless patches.
Do people really use those successfully? They save only a a minute at most, and my failure rate has been at least 50 percent. Grant Petersen at Rivendell says about the same, so I know I'm not alone. With conventional patches, I've had only one failure that I can recall since I started riding again in 1989. Anybody have any tips/comments/rebuttals?
|never worked for me||DougSloan|
Sep 17, 2002 8:11 AM
|I tried many times, but never got them to work. Primarily, I think it's because punctures are usually near the ridge left over from the tube mold, or because there is powder on the tube, and the patch won't stick. Also, they might work for 40 psi mountain bike tubes, but not 110 psi road tubes.
I gave up, and carry two tubes plus a real patch kit on long rides.
Nontheless, they are so small and light that it can't hurt to carry them, and there is a slight chance they might help get you home as a last resort.
|They do work for me.||HAL9010|
Sep 17, 2002 8:34 AM
|Doug has a point as to where the hole is and it's size/type being factors in patch success. But the key is getting a clean tube surface and keeping the adhesive side of the patch oil free until you are ready to place it on the tube. Easier said than done while on the side of a windy or wet or dusty road. Also how do you deal with sweaty hands... |
That said, I currently have a patch on my rear tube that is holding quite well maintaining 115-lbs of pressure and I fixed it on the side of the road. So it can be done but it takes practice and careful preparation.
Practice? Who wants to or how do you practice patching a tube?
Well Grasshopper, you must see the patch before it exists. You must feel it's energy and be the patch as it holds back the forces of pressure...
Ouumm... Ouumm... Ouummmmm.......
|they work OK for MTB tires||ColnagoFE|
Sep 17, 2002 8:30 AM
|not so well for road tires, but they "should" get you back home. Take up less room than a patch kit and you don't need to worry about glue drying up. Frankly the only time I'd patch is if I got a hole in my second tube which isn't that often.|
Sep 17, 2002 10:07 AM
|They work well on MTB tires. Unless the hole is right next to the ridge seam, they always hold up. I replaced one tube that had 6 glueless patches on it - they had accumulated over many months of riding the same tube.
However, on road bikes, they really only "get you home." I find the hold air for the rest of the ride, but are flat in the next day. I carry one new tube, and use the glueless patches on the road tube, only on my second flat of the day.
|Never had a problem||Eager Beagle|
Sep 17, 2002 8:34 AM
|I always clean around the area, and give it a rub with a little square of paper if I have it with me, and they have always worked fine.
The very best ones have the foam backing on (don't remember the make), but they have all worked 100% for me.
|Could be just you...||Gregory Taylor|
Sep 17, 2002 8:53 AM
|I've had good luck with the ones made by Park. You have to be pretty careful about using the little square of sandpaper to clean and rough up the tube. I also take time to work the patch into the tube to make sure that it has adhered well (no bubbles).
I carry the glueless ones because they are SO small, and I don't have to worry about whether my little tube of glue has dried out. That said, I do carry a "normal" patch kit (Rema, from Germany) in my messenger bag.
|Like Greg, Park patches work but||boneman|
Sep 17, 2002 11:39 AM
|as Doug Sloan notes, most punctures occur near the molding ridge, no surprise as that's the crown of the tire meeting the road, and the powder residue will further inhibit the bond. I've used the Park patches for about 30 punctures with 100% success rate. Their little pack which includes six patches and a square of sandpaper are all you need. Sand off the molding ridge, wet the tube in the patch area and wipe it off to clean off any powder residue and you're in business. Apply, rub with the back of your fingernail to complete the bond (like applying stickers to your windshield working from the center to eliminate bubbles, and you're done.|
|Patch as Patch Can ...||breck|
Sep 17, 2002 9:06 AM
|Never had any success with the Glueless patch of any brand with the road bike. They work very well on relatively low pressure large radius MTB tubes. Must be the small road tire radius combined with the high pressure of the road tube. It's a Hat Trick to make them work on the road, and my Lotto [ Yo Andrei! ] hats off to those that can. |
REMA is the best i've tried of the standard vulcanized "glue" patches. A word of caution ...once you've broken the seal on the "glue" tube, the remaining contents can seem to vaporize into thin air. Always check the once-opened tube before the long out and back rides, or take a new glue tube to be safe.
Always carry a spare tube. The tube valve stem base can get torn and the lighter thinner tubes can tear beyond the area a patch can cover, etc.
After riding through debris, brush the front & rear tires off using the gloved hand between the thumb & index finger. When you pull out the tube for patching, check the tire in that exact spot where the tube flatted for the possible source of the flat. For those long back country rides use a good quality rim tape such as Velox & a good full size butyl tube such as Conti, etc. This should keep flats to a minimum.
|I use them to boot/patch tire cuts instead||Tig|
Sep 17, 2002 9:45 AM
|If I repair a tube, I'll take it home and do it right with the old style glue patch. I'd rather just replace the tube with a spare when on the road.
The glueless patches make great boots to cover minor cuts in the tire itself. They stay on for the life of the tire and I have yet to see one fail or see anything penetrate them.
|nope, they suck (nm)||shawndoggy|
Sep 17, 2002 10:22 AM
|re: Carry a tube and glueless patches.||dzrider|
Sep 17, 2002 11:19 AM
|I've had good luck with them and also had the glue dry up and make conventional patches worthless. In addition to sanding and keeping greasy fingers off the adhesive you have to be very certain that the entire surface of the patch makes good contact with the tube. I usually inflate the tube to test it b4 putting it back in the tire.|
|The cult of glueless||Dark Sonix|
Sep 17, 2002 1:00 PM
|i love glueless. i didnt read everyone's posts, so these tips might be repeats.
1. sand the tube good. if the hole near a ridge, really sand it. rough, clean surface is key.
2. dont get the contact surface or the sticky surface wet. and dont touch the sticky surface. if the patch is wet or the glue is touched, get a new patch.
3. only use park. i have found that the other glueless are crap.
i run 115 psi all the time and recently had four gluesless patches on a tube (yeah, i'm lazy and cheap AND proud). i only replaced the tube because i bought new tires.
|As others noted, it's you||Kerry|
Sep 17, 2002 4:42 PM
|Rough up the tube properly, don't scum everything up with your dirty, sweaty hands, and a Park patch works fine.|
|re: Glueless patches: Is it just me, or...?||pina|
Sep 17, 2002 5:11 PM
|Rode on one on the rear of my fix gear for about a year, then had to replace it. I carry these and conventional patches and a tube with cartridges.|| |