|Road Bike Fitting||CKKJ|
Sep 16, 2002 5:23 AM
|I have been fit by a professional and still can't get comfortable on long rides. My seat is as far forward as it can go and I've already replaced my stem giving me as much rise as possible....but I still feel stretched out making my hands and arms sore. I have a 5 1/2 inch drop from the top of my saddle to the top of my handle bars. Is that too much? Should I look at purchasing a stem riser? Any help is appreciated.|
|5 1/2 inch?||Steve_0|
Sep 16, 2002 5:43 AM
|get your bars level with the saddle. see how it feels.|
|I thought the same thing...||Dave Hickey|
Sep 16, 2002 5:54 AM
|Who did this "professional" fit? 5 1/2" is a large drop.|
|5 1/2" is a lot of difference.||Spoke Wrench|
Sep 16, 2002 6:08 AM
|I think that a typical amount of difference on a road bike would be about 3". My personal bikes have 0 to 2" of difference, but I don't race, I'm not particularly flexible and, I have to say it, I'm fat.|
|Need more info||Fez|
Sep 16, 2002 6:13 AM
|You say your seat is as far fwd as possible and you feel stretched out. Is your top tube too long?
On the other hand, if you have a 5.5 inch drop between saddle and bars, it sounds like you cant get the bars high enough (or the saddle is way too high).
Post some more info about what size everything is. And maybe see another "professional."
|yeah -- beware the professional. Not that they don't know||bill|
Sep 16, 2002 7:09 AM
|what they're doing (although I'm sure lots don't), but they don't know you. And, if you're "fit by a professional," you'll tend to avoid questioning what was done instead of figuring it out for yourself.
I was fit by a professional, and, after living with it for a couple of months, I lowered my saddle, started fiddling with bar angle, etc., and I'm a lot happier now -- both about the bike's fit and the way it handles (something to do with the front-rear weight differential, I guess).
5 1/2 inches, unless you are on the Tour, is a LOT. Look at Lance; I'll bet he has about a 3" drop (but he has some back problems, doesn't he?). Judt lowering your saddle (not to say this is necessarily recommended; I don't know enough about your fit, but it may be worth a try) will shorten your reach, put less weight on your hands, etc.
|I agree. Look at Lance's position in Procycling this||Dave Hickey|
Sep 16, 2002 7:29 AM
|month. There's a Trek ad on the back cover with Lance riding along a yellow field. The fit police would go crazy with his bar position. He has STI hoods real high on the bar. The point is there is no correct fit other than one that makes you comfortable. Fit is a personal choice, not what someone thinks looks cool.|
|yeah -- beware the professional. Not that they don't know||CKKJ|
Sep 16, 2002 7:37 AM
|I'm 6'2" with a 35" inseam. I'm on a 60cm Cannondale. My old 60cm Cannondale fit great before I went for the upgrade. Any thoughts on the use of a stem riser?|
|Do you still have access to your old bike?||Spoke Wrench|
Sep 16, 2002 7:46 AM
|Whenever I had a customer who had a significant bicycling background, one of the questions I would ask them was if they had a bicycle that they were delighted with the fit. Whenever the andwer was "yes" I'd just measure the old bike and mimic that fit on their new bike. If the answer was "no" I'd measure the old bike anyway. Then we'd talk about what they liked and didn't like until we'd get an idea of what changes to make.|
|Exactly! I don't know why this idea isn't||scottfree|
Sep 16, 2002 9:14 AM
Not long ago, I decided to take the plunge on a 'modern' bike, and all I did was list all the little things I felt I wanted after thousands and thousands of miles on my old main ride (over the course of 18 years, you get a chance to really figure these things). At least a centimeter more crotch clearance. Wider handlebars. At least a centimeter longer top tube. Add those numbers to the existing bike's measurements, and you're well in the ballpark for finding a new bike that will please you.
|Do you still have access to your old bike?||CKKJ|
Sep 16, 2002 10:25 AM
|I've checked with Cannondale and the frame geometry is the same for my old and new bike. The only differences seem to be in the stem...quill(old) vs threadless (new) and the handle bars.|
Sep 16, 2002 9:22 AM
|And you are riding with the seat pushed all the way forward?
I'd have a second opinion look at that. Your front end isn't working out because, with the seat forward, you have alot of weight on your hands. Sometimes, pushing it back helps (plus shorter stem length as you go back).
KOPS is being debunked, but in the most part, 'Knee Behind Pedal Spindle' works a bit better, plus gives more options in the saddle.
|Post a photo of you on the bike......................||Justride|
Sep 16, 2002 8:08 AM
|I rember a person posting a photo of himself on the bike while asking for fit advise. Seemed like he got some very good information. I have to wonder about some of the people in LBS that do fitting. I have seen some bad fitting bikes on the road purchased from supposedly reputable "pro" shops in my area. 5.5" drop from saddle to bar tops is extreme in my opinion.|| |