|Best pedals and shoes?||2300 Edmontonian|
Sep 3, 2002 1:33 PM
|So now that I've been convinced that I totally need them,
What in your opinion are the best road pedals and shoes to buy?
And I'd really appreciate it if you could tell me where to find the best deals too,
|Best pedals and shoes?||tao|
Sep 3, 2002 2:16 PM
|Time Equipe Pro Ti and Time Equipe Pro Cx
Widest platform, lateral AND angular float, and closest to the spindle. Shoes are stiff and oh so sexy!
|The ones that fit!||SnowBlind|
Sep 3, 2002 2:57 PM
|Seriously, get good pedals $100+ and shoes $129+ and you won't regret it.
Exact makers are a matter choice.
Ones I've tried:
Sidi - Narrow, bad inserts, love the straps.
Carnac - Huge toebox, great inserts. Don't like the straps.
Northwave - big toebox, hate the straps.
Look- too padded.
Nike- too flexy.
Shimano- too Shimano. (just kidding, did'nt try these).
Look: Too floaty, hate the cleat.
Pro-Fit: Solid connection, good comprimise on float. Cleat is a bit better than Look.
Time: Very nice, huge platform.
Speedplay: Hurt my feet.
Shimano: love the double entry, cleats ok for walking.
above observations are for me, others may vary.
The point is, get what feels good. Other than the saddle, no other part is going to make your life suck like bad shoes and pedals.
Personally, for me the Sidi's and profits work great together. Ended up replacing the Sidi insert with orthothics, big improvement.
|What should a noob look for in pedals and shoes?||fbg111|
Sep 3, 2002 5:34 PM
|What is "float", and what are the characteristics noobs should look for to help us choose pedals and shoes that will work the first time? This looks like something that somebody new could spend a lot of $$ on trying to figure out what works for them and what doesn't.|
|Rubber soled Mtb Shoe or Touring Shoe to start||teamsloppy|
Sep 3, 2002 7:54 PM
|The shoes are more important than the pedals to start. I would recommend a rubber soled "Touring Shoe" or a Mountain Biking Shoe. The confidence factor is so much higher with a rubber soled or sticky shoe.
Road Shoes today are nasty things with hard plastic soles that slip. They slip everywhere: off the pedal, off the street (if you have to stop for a light), off the floor if you are walking from the curb to your apartment. Never try to climb 12 flights of stairs in a road shoe; that's a one time experience. I Commute to work with a Mt. Bike Shoe; I can beat any road Bike shoer off the line at a stop light because of better traction (I can push off like a track sprinter) and confidence that if I miss the "plug-in" my foot can still stay on the pedal. With a road shoe, you have to tread gingerly, step petitely into your pedals, with no push off, and if you miss the "plug-in" with your cleat forward, your foot slides off like you are doing a goose-step.
Once you have your confidence up, then try a nasty hard soled, slippery road shoe.
For Pedals, the Time ATAC or Time Cyclo for a beginner (which wil work with an SPD Mtb Shoe) and have very forgiving float to help protect the knees and tolerate bad shoe alignment.
The lower end Time ATACs are $69 and are double sided making entry easier. The Time Cylcos are around $99, are a single sided version of the ATAC and you will be forced to learn the single-sided sense of a regular road pedal. You can get Mtb shoes and Touring shoes for $50. The Road Shoes and Pedals mentioned in other posts above will cost you 3 times that. The Pearl Izumi Mtb. Shoe and Road Shoes appear identical except for the sole. Diadora has Touring shoe that is Road shoe with a rubber soul. North Wave Mtb Shoes are as mice as their premium road shoes, but you cna find them for a thrird the cost. I've seen Time Atb shoes for $50 (the Snake).
For the best price look at the Hot Deals page here or
You can always use these pedals and shoes for long tours ( I dragegd mine to Europe), commuting, date rides (where you want to walk around or not freak out your date with the petite penguin walk required by road shoes) and, of course, mountain biking.
It's pretty easy to change pedals if you have the Tool (about $14).
|Thanks. 2 questions:||fbg111|
Sep 4, 2002 4:23 AM
|What is "float" exactly? And is SPD a particular format that different brands can build to so their pedals and shoes are all interchangeable with each other?|
|Float is how much your foot can move easily while in the pedal||teamsloppy|
Sep 4, 2002 10:30 AM
|1) Float is basically how much the pedal allows the foot to move around easliy (obviously without releasing). It could be viewed as how locked in your foot is to one position on the pedal. The original road pedals really locked your foot into one position that you could only adjust a little by tweaking the cleat mounting bolts.
There are at least two types of float:
Angular which is described in degrees is basically how much you can pivot on the ball of your foot to point you toes in or out. Most manufactures describe some angular float adjustment to their pedal.
Lateral is how much you can move your foot side-to-side (in or out) towards the center of the bike. Its described in mm on the Times. Few manufacturers have much lateral Float.
Try the Time Sports website. They have a couple pictures. At the bottom of the page.
2) Not all shoes and pedals are interchangeable. It's a matter of the bolt pattern on the bottom of the sole and whether the mounting cleat will fit.
For example, some mountain bike shoe don't support they Look bolt pattern. Most MTB shoes support the SPD-R bolt pattern.
SPD is more universal. Almost all Mountain Bike Shoes, Touring shoes and most Road Shoes have an SPD compatible mounting. Higher end road shoes often require an adapter plate.
I found that the extreme curvature of some high end road shoes don't work well with some SPD mountings unless you install a shim to flatten the contact area (Speedplay requires this) and the Time ATAC work better with a pontoon (Northwave even draws this in their SPD Adapter Plate connection drawing).
The bolt pattern in the sole of the shoes and cleat mounting holes have to match.
|Thanx for the detailed response. nm||fbg111|
Sep 4, 2002 2:58 PM
|What should a noob look for in pedals and shoes?||Rob March|
Sep 4, 2002 1:55 PM
|As someone who just bought their first pedals/shoes, I like Specialized Sport Mountain shoes. They cost about $70, and have orthodics built in, which is important for a flatfoot like myself. I've had them for about 4 months with no problems.
|I love my Shimano SPD-R's||PODIUMBOUNDdotCA|
Sep 3, 2002 7:55 PM
|A lot of people dislike the old SPD-R pedals since they were at times difficult to get out of. However, the new ones (2002 not 2003) have a teflon mechanism that makes entry and exit a lot easier. I like this design infinitely more than pedals with a lot of float because the entry and exit is in a fairly small range of motion so you don't lose the power that would occur if your foot was able to move all over. Then Shimano just makes great shoes IMHO.
|re: Best pedals and shoes?||peter1|
Sep 5, 2002 7:39 AM
|For me, toebox and heel are most important. Make sure they fit, because if the toebox is too small, you'll get hot spots and numbness, esp. on cooler days! Also, don't be afraid to spend a lot and get good, stiff soles...if you start with flexier ones, you'll eventually buy stiff ones anyway. My shoes are DMT ChronoX's with offset tongue. You might try them out if you have narrow heels.
As for pedals, I always liked shimano until I was persuaded to try Speedplay X2s. Love em' but hate the cleats for walking. And, the cleats aren't easy to mount. But once I'm on the bike, appreciate the float and the feeling of being directly connected to the spindle...