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Advice needed please...(9 posts)

Advice needed please...essdeegee
Aug 29, 2002 10:13 AM
I have a friend who has a Panasonic Pro Team (I think that's the model). It has Columbus tubing, Campy components (the hubs are Campy Record, the derailleur did not have a model designation but it looked well finished) including Campy Victory tubular rims. I just cleaned and repacked all of his bearings. All the bearings and bearing surfaces were in great shape, no pitting, rusting. Everything is well aligned and works well and the frame has no rust and its paint is in great shape. He would like to get new clincher rims and I suggested Mavic Open Pros. Since I do exclusively mountain biking I thought I would get the advice of road warriors. Any concerns he should have in getting the wheels and making the switch to clinchers? TIA
re: Advice needed please...LC
Aug 29, 2002 10:43 AM
unless you have a team support car following you 24/7, get the clinchers. Open pro rims are always a standard good choice.
How old is the bike?dzrider
Aug 29, 2002 10:58 AM
If it's a 1980's model you'll have to either use the hubs you have or be sure the hubs you get will fit in the dropouts.
What's the spacing? If it's 126mm...retro
Aug 29, 2002 11:18 AM
I can't remember what the standard spacing between the rear dropouts was back then, but seems to me it was 126mm. If that's the case, I'm sure you could just spread the stays and shove in a new (130mm) rear hub. Assuming it's a friction shifter (???), adjust the limit screws and maybe the brakes and you'd be ready to ride.
Indexing would complicate the swap, of course. And if I'm wrong about the spacing (could it have been 120?), that's another problem. Generally, though, it doesn't hurt a steel frame to use hubs a little narrower or wider than stock. The new Rivendells and most Surly bikes come with 132.5 spacing, to fit both 130 and 135 hubs.
Also, if it does have 126 spacing...greg n
Aug 29, 2002 11:37 AM
you can take the frame to any LBS that has a good mechanic to cold-work the stays to a 130 spacing.
It'll be a nice rideWalter
Aug 29, 2002 1:15 PM
Switch to clinchers. As noted there are options. Rebuild with current hubs. Since you didn't note any damage that might be the easiest. Look for a retro wheelset on eBay or, they pop up regularly or pick up a modern 8+ speed wheelset and either muscle the stays or have them coldset. A friction shifter, and the Campy Synchros D/T set-up had a friction option, will run over any freewheel or cassette. There are a few retro-grouches who like extra gears and friction shift even Campy 10 setups.

I'd probably look at the rebuild first with the modern setup #2 and a retro-set #3. I guess #4 might be a new FW wheelset from Nashbar, they carry them in 27" and 700C.

Panasonic Team Pro was a nice bike. Even though it's old your friend will enjoy it.
its straightforward ......Spirito
Aug 29, 2002 1:48 PM
in my opinion its better to keep the character and mojo of the bike intact and simply rebuild the wheels around the existing hubs with new clincher rims and new spokes.

my preference with regard to modern clincher rims would be FIR rims (a little harder to find) with open pros and velocity aeroheads being pretty equal and close seconds. if they are 32 hole hubs and you wanted to save a few bucks mavic ma2's are still available and are a great, reliable rim that could suit if the era of the bike is a little older (all silver with a classic profile). they are only 30 odd grams (actual) heavier per hoop but available at for $25 each. DT double butted spokes with silver brass nipples are almost a given - tried and tested. they also have a great range of clincher tires and tubes for reasonable prices if you want to cheapen the shipping cost.

true, you could get a new 9 speed wheelset for $200 and respacing the rear end is easy but if the current setup is around an older hubset (freewheel) then a new chain, and cassette is up for the asking. most older derailleurs and shifters can be made to work well in friction modes but its better to leave it as it may be a question of small things like pulley size, chainring spacing and whether the derailleur limits are appropriate. all of which i wouldnt bother with messing with as it becomes pricey and not in keeping with simply making a change just from tubulars to clinchers.

if you dont plan on building them yourself and there is nobody locally that is worth entrusting enquire with excel sports or colorado cyclist if they will build a wheelset around your hubs were you to send it to them. both will do a good job, the price should be reasonable and it wont require a lot of thinking and sourcing.

in all there is no problem with getting the hubs rebuilt with clincher rims and as you pointed out all else is fine and functional its the smarter thing to do - you just want to change the type of tires used and there is no issue with regards to compatability.

why FIR? after asking around and listening to what a lot of respected wheelbuilders had to say about current multispoke traditional rims it sounded to me that they are the cream of the crop, built up well and were of geat quality. in saying that, its hard to buy a bad clincher rim, just an innappropriate one or a badly built wheelset.

selling the existing wheels and buying a used set to suit is an option but can be a toss of a coin between a great option or being stuck with junk as its hard for both buyer and seller to ascertain on what is smooth, true and good condition.

What are you trying to accomplish?Spoke Wrench
Aug 30, 2002 5:49 AM
If it was my bike, I think that I'd go for keeping the retro look. Open Pro's on the existing hubs would be a good choice because they have that flat, retro profile.

I think that trying to do a major upgrade would be a mistake. You can spend a boatful of money, it still won't be up to modern standards performance wise, and the bike will lose some of its panache.
Thanks to all, I will suggest....essdeegee
Aug 30, 2002 12:56 PM
he keep his present hubs and build a new set with the Open Pros. I am a maintenance fanatic and I was amazed how good a shape the hubs (as well as the BB and HS) were in. I'll replace his cables, chain and brake pads and he will have a nice ride.