|The damage was worse than I imagined...||Lone Gunman|
Aug 26, 2002 4:09 PM
|I have decided to get my '99 Lemond powdercoated and painted. Obtained a set of factory decals, located a PCer and a wet painter that has done some nice work on other bikes and made the arrangements to do the project.
Last night I took the bike apart and could not believe how bad the paint had failed. Rust had begun to form at the cable stays, bottom bracket outer shell, both bottle cage braze ons, rear dropouts, FD clamp. Water/sweat had seeped into cracks in the paint and decals rust formed underneath the cracks and the paint peeled off in large hunks, 3-4" strips at a time. Unreal.
How do I prevent this from happening again? I know the powdercoat is tough stuff and the new finish will be clearcoated as many coats as I want. But I saw that most of the damage was where a part came in contact with the paint. Any hints as to what I can do to prevent this. I NEVER want to paint this bike again and want the surface to be unbroken or scarred from parts.
|Never is a long time.||MB1|
Aug 26, 2002 4:17 PM
|First option-ride in Mojave only.
Powdercoat is as tough as paint gets. Trek does a pretty good job on paint but a good powdercoater ought to be better.
Tips-black is usually the toughest powdercoat color. Wax the frame before putting it back together. Keep it clean and store it dry.
Don't worry so much, it is only a bike. If you want a tough finish that will hold up get a titanium frame otherwise just enjoy what you have.
|I guess I was expecting better for what I paid...||Lone Gunman|
Aug 26, 2002 4:47 PM
|I am gentle on equipment. When I saw that the bike is clear coated at purchase I felt that the finish would be very durable. The original cracks in the paint occured at the joint of the seat tube/BB/chainstays after 2 years. I peeled the rust spots out, primered and painted. They came back, and I did it a second time. Same result. The paint was peeling off like it was tape.
Going with a light green (sort of olympic ring green) on the back half of the bike and yellow on the fork and front half. Main decals are black and smaller ones are yellow. Bike looked stunning when I bought it, so I want it to continue to look good after 3 seasons. Black PC with black decals won't work, might as well cover it with black duct tape if I went that route :-)) Probably would last longer than Trek's famous quick release paint.
Aug 26, 2002 5:07 PM
Never worry about paint again. Ever. As long as it has an applied finish it will come off and get chipped.
FWIW - The quality of Trek paint jobs is a total sham. Ever notice that while they tout their quality and warranty the one excpetion is that the finish is only for one year. Sold my OCLV b/c I was so disgusted with the way the finish peeled right off.
For what you're going to pay for getting it painted you could probably buy a new frame and fork. A buddy just picked one up for about $400 and it included headset, stem, bars, seat and seatpost via the 'net. Remember it's just a bike, not a work of art.
|No reason why it can't be art though...||girchygirchy|
Aug 26, 2002 6:06 PM
|Look at Klein paintjobs...gorgeous.|
Aug 28, 2002 7:51 AM
|Sorry, my opinion, but I think they're tacky as hell.|
|Not sure I can get a painted 853 frame and fork||Lone Gunman|
Aug 26, 2002 6:43 PM
|for about $230. Decals,$30, PC, $75, wet paint, decals applied and clearcoated $125. Don't want a new frame and fork, happy with what I have. Not interested in Ti, boring ugly grey metal, don't give a tinkers flip how durable the finish is. Could buy a frame from Chucks bikes for $45 and on appearance alone, looks like Ti to me.
No doubt about the lack of durability with Trek paint, it is poor at best. I know I won't buy another Trek product. As far as the bike being a "work of art" part of what I liked was the paint scheme in combination with everything else about the bike. Had it been shitmuckle brown I would have not bought it or gave it a second look.
|Not sure I can get a painted 853 frame and fork||Raf1|
Aug 27, 2002 7:31 PM
|"boring ugly grey metal"
yeah, if finished poorly.
"Could buy a frame from Chucks bikes for $45 and on appearance alone, looks like Ti to me"
You're either blind or haven't seen a proper Ti finish.
Aug 28, 2002 7:54 AM
|So, you bought it for the paint job and got swindled having no idea how a Ti bike rides. Beautiful. |
What kind of car do you drive? A red one.
|Sounds like poor prep...||Gregory Taylor|
Aug 27, 2002 4:58 AM
|If the paint is peeling off in strips, that's usually a sign of poor preparation work prior to shooting the color coats. It's made worse if the paint is applied too thickly. It doesn't stick and then it peels off.
As for the rust at the cable stays, that's probably caused by a thin application of paint. Have you ever tried to paint a frame? It's dang hard to shoot the paint in an even coat into all of the nooks and crannies without getting runs. Other stuff that could be causing it is (1) corrosion caused by the cable ends rubbing the paint off, (2) a galvanic reaction caused by bolting together dissimilar metals (you can't bolt steel directly to aluminum without some sort of barrier - this is the bane of my Cannondale)or(3)left-over flux, etc. from the brazing work.
|Sounds like *consistently* poor prep... -nm||grzy|
Aug 28, 2002 7:55 AM