|Paid $100 for bike build-up. Should the BB shell be faced?||cabinfever|
Aug 8, 2002 10:14 AM
|I just paid a LBS to build a road bike for me. $100...not bad at all. I got the frame from Ebay. It had never been built up. First ride was sweet. Bike was quiet, everything worked great. Now, I have a creaking noise when I climb. I can only assume it is the Dura Ace bottom bracket. I know this has been mentioned in old posts, but is it reasonable to assume that the LBS faced the bottom bracket shell? How can I tell if they did or didn't? When I take the crank arms off and turn the spindle, it feels "rough". I just bought a Park BBT-7 tool to remove the bottom bracket with, and I'm hoping I'll be able to tell if they did face it by removing it. Then, I'm going to reinstall it properly and make sure the bolt for the cable guide isn't sticking through. I guess the Dura Ace BB is a bit delicate to install.|
|Maybe not, for that price.||cory|
Aug 8, 2002 10:23 AM
|Sure, it SHOULD be, but that's not really a lot of money for a pro-quality assembly. Rivendell charges $210, I think, to build up one of its frames. There are lots of causes of creaking, though. I'd take it back and tell them "it's creaking--fix it." If you've only had the bike a short time, I'd expect them to do it free. If you've been riding a year, maybe it's on you.|
|Didn't haggle on price...||cabinfever|
Aug 8, 2002 10:50 AM
|That is just what they charged. I didn't know if I was justified in asking them to fix the noise because a) I got all my stuff online, and b) it was cheap to build it. But, I've only put 100 miles on it, and it is all top quality stuff. I checked out several things, such as stem, fork, headset, cassette, rear hub, spoke tension, etc. I'm a decent wrench-guy, I just didn't have the facing tool, or headset cup press, so I had them do it. I can handle the bottom bracket servicing myself. Thanks for your reply.|
|re: Paid $100 for bike build-up. Should the BB shell be faced?||rob45|
Aug 8, 2002 10:24 AM
|How long after you had it built up did the creaking start? if shortly after, why don't you take it back and have the shop make the adjustment? Facing probably shouldn't be the issue with creaking (they got the bb in, so facing should be OK). Roughness in turning the spindle has nothing to do with the facing--it probably means it is adjusted too tightly (though a loose fit often causes the creak). You don't need to take out the bottom bracket..you should start by adjusting the tightness. Park tools website should have a good tutorial on this.|
|Checked out Park's site...||cabinfever|
Aug 8, 2002 10:32 AM
|That is where I saw a facing tutorial. Pretty advanced stuff. I am confused because if it were loose, the action of the spindle should be nice and free. It isn't, which lead me to believe it is tight. But if it were tight, it shouldn't be creaking either. I eliminated all other possibilities of the noise. I didn't know if I was entitled to have the shop check it given the cheap price. But, if he said it would be $200, I would have paid it anyway. I didn't negotiate for that deal, that is just what it was. Thanks for the reply.|
|re: Paid $100 for bike build-up. Should the BB shell be faced?||xxl|
Aug 8, 2002 10:40 AM
|If they faced the shell, assuming it's a steel bike, the outside surfaces of the shell should be free of paint, and parallel. In fact, since your bike is a recent build-up, they steel should still be nice and shiny. I don't believe that carbon and ti are "faceable," and I don't know about aluminum, but my guess is it's like steel.
Honestly, though, tons of bikes get built up without being decently prepped, and manage to survive, because industrywide manufacturing tolerances are really quite good, so the worst thing that happens is some extra paint chips and crap gets flushed out in the first overhaul. Facing (and thread chasing) should still be done, but there are plenty of rides that missed it. And if you whined nicely, the shop shouldn't quibble about (re)doing the shell; it doesn't take long.
I'd be more suspicious of a parts defect in the BB, or (without knowing more about which DA BB and frame you have) even just a misadjusted BB, as the culprit.
|Aluminum. I'll check for paint tonight to see if it is faced.||cabinfever|
Aug 8, 2002 10:55 AM
|Honestly, I'm more concerned about the poor spinning action of the spindle than the creaking. I think both could be due to poor installation. I bought a Park BBT-7, am a decent wrench myself, and am going to service the BB with some info I got on Park's site, as well as reviews about the DA bottom bracket on RBR.com. I would have built it myself, but don't have a headset cup press, or facing and thread chasing tools. Thanks for the post.|
|Aluminum. I'll check for paint tonight to see if it is faced.||dave woof|
Aug 8, 2002 11:19 AM
|Creaking BB - take it out, put one or two wraps of plumbers teflon tape around the threads and reinstall. Creaking will go away, I gaurantee it.