|Home made tire tuing stands?||IRIE|
Jul 11, 2002 9:52 AM
|Has anyone made one? Or is it better to drop the money on one?
If you did build one how did you do it?
thanks for the help.
|If u want to save money and are not trying to build.............||tronracer|
Jul 11, 2002 10:04 AM
|Then just use the brakes as a guide for truing when the wheel is mounted on the bike. Otherwise spend the money for a quality stand.
Just my $.02
|How do you true a tire? nm||jaybird|
Jul 11, 2002 10:29 AM
|The best truing stand ever||PhatMatt|
Jul 11, 2002 10:38 AM
|Is at my friends house, as if I try to do wheel work I screw it up. I am getting better. My friend has a old wheel he make me practice on. This is a true art form.|
|The best truing stand ever||IRIE|
Jul 11, 2002 10:52 AM
|thats funny, the reason I am asking about them is because I attempted to fix a couple of loose spokes last night. Which in turn screwed my wheel up to the point I couldn't go for my morning ride this morning.|
|If you don't know how to true....||tronracer|
Jul 11, 2002 11:19 AM
|A truing stand won't help at all. Hear's a good way to learn:
|Thanks for the help (nm)||IRIE|
Jul 11, 2002 11:54 AM
|Easy, put it on a well-trued wheel. (nm)||djg|
Jul 12, 2002 6:15 AM
|I agree||Spoke Wrench|
Jul 11, 2002 12:00 PM
|There are two issues in building your own trueing stand.
The first is front and rear wheels have different over locknut dimensions, so you have to have a way to account for that.
The second is it has to be more stable than your bicycle frame, otherwise you might just as well use your bike frame.
The first few wheels I built, I just used my bike frame for reference. I guess they must have turned out OK because I rode on them for years.
|I agree too!||HAL9010|
Jul 11, 2002 12:17 PM
|Excellent trueing can always be done iwth the wheel on the bike, if you know what you are doing. It is just that on the bike, in the frame is not a very efficient way of building your wheel. Also the frame lacks the mounting points for dial gauges or indicators. But again if you know what you are doing! |
Try this: Tape a toothpick to your stay(s) as guides. A wood toothpick is less apt to scratch your paint, cheep and has a pointy end which is very helpfull in identifing the the top of the "bump". You can gently slide the toothpick in and out as you switch sides and as the wheel gets closer to true. Yes it can take a bit of fiddling but it will work very well. I keep a couple of toothpicks and some tape in my seat bag if a broke-on-the-road spoke makes the wheel too wobbly.
The last word; If you tighten on one side you probably better loosen up some on the other side. Think about it.
|get one (or two) of these...||off roadie|
Jul 11, 2002 3:45 PM
Its a cheap dial caliper that reads down to 1/1000 inch, and an optional magnetic base and multi axis support arm.
Build a STIFF steel frame that will hold a wheel. Some of that pre-drilled angle iron stuff sold for DIY projects might do the trick, but a nice welded box serction frame would probably be stiffer. Then set up the guage so it pokes your rim from one side for latewral truing, and from above or below for radial truing (hence having two might be nice). IMO, this is a better system than most comercial truing stands, though you will need a dishing tool.
Me, I use a really crappy folding steel truing stand that cost $35, plus the dial guage. I pulled the "feelers" off the stand because they just got in the way. The stand wiggles a fair bit when I handle the wheel (like maybe 1/20 inch), so I can "only" get my wheel true to 1/100 of an inch or so- good enough, no need to drive myself nuts on 1/8 turn spoke tweaks that have no functional benefit.
Building a better frame would probably cost me at least $80 after I bought materials, bolts, a hacksaw, and whatever else came up. If you alreay have that stuff, it might be worth it, but I find "DIY" projects where you don't already have stock materials and tools usually cost more than just buying what it is you want.