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Stuck cleat, twisted knee(21 posts)

Stuck cleat, twisted kneearty
Jun 5, 2002 10:21 AM
I bought some Ultegra pedals and Shimano shoes a few weeks ago and they were working well -- until my last ride anyway.

I normally unclip (they're clipless pedals, so I'm not sure what the correct term is) on the right side first when I'm coming to a stop, just habit I guess.

My right shoe got stuck a bit when I was trying to unclip early on in my last ride, but I didn't think too much of it. Later on in the ride I was coming to a Stop sign, and attempted to twist my foot out to unclip. My foot was stuck. In a bit of a panic -- I didn't want to fall over -- I gave it a real good twist, and tore something in my knee. I was able to clip out on the left side so I didn't fall and scratch the bike.

I haven't been in the rain with the pedals, and there is still plenty of grease on them. Perhaps they just need some more wearing in. The tension was fine on them before this last ride. I'll try adjusting the pedal so it's looser before my next ride though.

Has this ever happened to anyone else? Any suggestions?
I guess you're talking about SPD-R?Paul
Jun 5, 2002 10:36 AM
If you are here's my response. I'll never go to those junk pedals. You're not the only person who has had problems clipping in/out. I've seen guys in the club fall over with them. I have used SPD's for years, both Shimano and other brands. When I first got the Dura Ace spd's, I fell three times until they broke in. Had the settings on the least resistance. Once they broke in, they were find. Shimano has designed a new pedal for lance to use in the TDF. I'm sure it will be on the market afterwards.

One reason i see the price going down on those SPD-R's.
Set the pedal tension to the least resistance, and then, good luck.
I guess you're talking about SPD-R?arty
Jun 5, 2002 10:45 AM
Yes, they're the PD-6601 SPD-R.

Thanks for the advice.
In Shimano's defence...PODIUMBOUNDdotCA
Jun 5, 2002 11:52 AM
K I'm sponsored by them so I feel a need to defend them. But they are great pedals and the older versions with no teflon coated claw sucked to get out of. But now with the teflon coated claw the problem is solved. I got a pair on 2002 pedals and love them. The best part about these pedals is you don't have to overrotate your foot like Speedplays or Times to get out of which can cause just as much damage as 1 quick pull like the person who began this thread had.

Nick Corcoran
In Shimano's defense...bob_vanderhaus
Jun 5, 2002 1:33 PM
I got a pair of 2002 pedals on my team bike as well, and I must say that pedals are IME junk. I messed with the pedal tension for a month before I put them in the trash. They simply did not release in a predictable manner. The statement that the release on speedplays and times could cause as much damage as the over stressing of your muscles trying to get out of the Shimanos is rubbish.
Speedplays and TimesPODIUMBOUNDdotCA
Jun 5, 2002 8:09 PM
I've ridden both and I have to twist out far to unclip. My dad also rode my Time ATACs and hated them. Then he rode the Shimano 959 (mountain bike equivalent to SPD-R) and loved them. Hmmm...

Nick Corcoran
If you find them in the trash...PODIUMBOUNDdotCA
Jun 5, 2002 8:11 PM
If you ever find your pedals in the trash care to send them my way? I'll pay shipping and handling :)

Nick Corcoran
Egg Beaters rule...dustin73
Jun 6, 2002 12:36 AM
but how are 959s the mtb equivalent to SPD-R?

i'm not a fan of SPD at last mtn pedals were SPD and they are now...hmmm...either in the back of my truck, or in the storage shed...i'm not actually sure.
There is no mt bike equivalent to SPD-R.bob_vanderhaus
Jun 6, 2002 9:16 AM
There is no mt bike equivalent to SPD-R. My spd mt pedals work fine, the SPD-R's are a completely different pedal all together.
Once the teflon wears, are you back to the same problem? (NM)Paul
Jun 6, 2002 3:41 AM
Jun 5, 2002 10:58 AM
The main perk to SPD's, in my book, was that you could use them with atb or touring shoes in a recessed cleat setup. SPD-R's don't allow that. If I'm going to use a slick soled road shoe, then I'm going to get a wider, smoother platform like a Look pedal.

If you like SPDs, just get the two-sided top of the line mtn pedal (959). It is as light as most road pedals anyway.
Jun 5, 2002 2:48 PM
the 2-sided (SPD) pedals are a pain in the @ss; when you accidently 'pull-out' (& you WILL!) which side do you adjust the tension on?? You will have to be very lucky to select the correct side to adjust....more than likely you will correct one side and over adjust the when you have difficulty disconnecting (due to over ajustment), you will repeat the uncertain adjustment proceedure...if you like SPD, stick w/single-sided pedals...the fewest complaints I've heard are with the Ritcheys...(I personally ride the SPEEDPLAYS.....and am 100% satisfied)
Jun 5, 2002 3:09 PM
If you adjust your pedals properly it won't be a problem. Shimano pedals come equally tensioned on both sides, so you should make the adjustments on both sides till they are correct. Most even click every half rotation or so, so you can easily keep all settings the same.
Jun 6, 2002 6:02 AM
Been using double-sided SPDs for 7 years and I've never come out, including not yet in 500 miles on the new ride with the 959's. Sure building a high end road bike and putting those on bespeaks "Fred" but I don't care.

As described above, you simply make the same adjustment to both sides, or you can tighten both down, and then back off equally. I've just never had this problem, working my way through the options ... 535 (1994-1995), 757 (1996-1998), and 959 now... not to mention ALWAYS having dual sided SPDs on the atb. In between, I had the 6600 (Ultegra) single sided, but wasn't willing to go to the SPD-R when I wore those out.
questions for you...dustin73
Jun 5, 2002 11:27 AM
at the beginning of the ride, does it feel easy to unclip, then as the ride progresses, it gets harder and harder? have you tried uncliping by twisting inward?

same thing happens to me, with my Ultegras, on the left side, which is the foot i unclip with. i don't know what the deal is, but it sucks. the only time i've ever fallen while stopped was 'cause i couldn't get unclipped.

i know it's not really a fix, but try unclipping by rotating your foot inward. it'll be a temporary fix till you can really dx the problem.

as soon as the Egg Beater road cleats come out, i'm gonna switch to those.
My take on this...PODIUMBOUNDdotCA
Jun 5, 2002 11:49 AM
In all honesty knowing how I've overtightened my pedals since I'm a track rider and don't need to eject from my pedals as I'm flying down the banking at 60 km/h I overtighten them. And because of it I have to whack my heels out so when I use them on the road I'd been known to tip over. So I think you probably did the same thing and it was magnified by you panicking to get out. I hope your knee gets better and I wish you the best of luck in your recovery.

Nick Corcoran
re: Stuck cleat, twisted kneeRode Warrior
Jun 5, 2002 12:41 PM
I had a similar problem, and fixed it by loosening the cleat as was previously suggested. I also had a problem with the cleat on my shoe loosening, but it doesn't sound like this is your problem. I would first loosen the tension on the pedals as much as possible, then tighten it until you don't unclip accidentally. I hope this helps.

re: Stuck cleat, twisted kneebob_vanderhaus
Jun 5, 2002 1:38 PM
The tension release is not the issue on these pedals, I messed with it on 2 sets of pedals and could never get a predictable release. Shimano KNOWS there is problems with these pedals which is the reason they are working on a redesign. Why else would they work on an overhaul so soon after these pedals were put on the market? The 535 and 747 MT bike pedals were on the market for years before they changed the design.
"SPD-R pedal problems -correction method REVEALED!"Crankist
Jun 5, 2002 3:35 PM
From an earlier post:

"Posted by: Crankist Mar-11-02, 07:57 PM

Send no money now. And no, this is not a "load 'em up with grease" solution.
First I want to state that nobody SHOULD have to do anything to make costly product work. But throwing them out isn't any better.
Anyway, after 600-800 miles my Ultegras began that unclip-to-the-inside-only phenomenon - unsafe at any speed IMO.
I took a dremel tool mounted with a 3/8" cylinder stone of approx. 100 grit and re-worked the pedal rear mating surface to a better flatness and straightness condition, removing ALL the buildup and scarring. Next in the Dremel a 1" dia. X 1/8" cotton wheel loaded with rouge for polishing which took a little time but looked great...but did not correct the problem. What has worked (this took me several efforts and some headscratching and careful comparison with a pedal that DID work) was to re-grind that surface (the one which leads to the outside)with a slight bevel (about 5 deg.) so that the engagement profile is slightly wider at the top of the pedal. Then re-polish. Voila! No grease necessary and no pedals loitering at the bottom of the trash can where they really do belong. SPD-R owners will understand. Apparently Shimano does not.
This was written before the new teflon or flouride coated version came out.
newbie: pedal questionnn23
Jun 5, 2002 5:10 PM
So basically SPD is OK but SPD-R is not ?

I have some cheapo two sided SPD pedals on my bike but dont know if they are SPD-R or SPD how do I check? I wear Answer ATB shoes.

These are my first pair of pedals and it never occured to me that the occasional unclipping of the cleat at the start of a sprint could just as well be the pedals fault.
newbie: pedal questionCrankist
Jun 5, 2002 5:37 PM
SPD-Rs are single-side entry only. Yours are almost certainly SPDs.