|Need advice ASAP-Newbie||jtkirk15|
May 18, 2002 1:44 PM
|I am in the market for an entry level bike. I've been considering such bikes as Giant OCR3, Trek 1000, KHS Flite 300, etc. At my LBS I was shown a '01 model of KHS Flite 500. Normally this bike was priced at $659. Well, this bike had been upgraded by the shop with Mavic CXP 21 wheels, new tires (supposedly $35 tires), 105 mixed components (shifters, derailleurs), Tiagra cranksets. The bike is in my size (56cm) and it rode very nicely. The price is probably $599 (salesman must talk to owner). The catch? There is a small dent about the size of a pencil in the top tube. It's very minor and only noticeable in light glare. Oh yeah, the bike is steel.
Is this as good of a deal as it sounds?
Will the dent ruin the integrity of the bike?
Should I buy this bike tomorrow?
Thanks for your advice and I need to know soon. I want it, but I don't want to make a mistake.
|re: Need advice ASAP-Newbie||Jambo|
May 18, 2002 2:06 PM
|Don't worry about the dent. I imagine some people would care, but if it is really that small it won't matter at all on a steel frame. Aluminum, maybe, but a dent like that won't do anything to a steel frame. Just use it as an excuse to try and talk down the price some more.
The components sound nice. You won't usually find 105 for that cheap. It sounds like it is probably pretty heavy, but a good starter bike. If the bike feels good, buy it.
May 18, 2002 3:44 PM
|and you might want to check out another LBS if this an example of the "deals" they offer their customers. CXP's are the lowest rung Mavics, and for $600, the majority of the group should be 105. I would avoid any bike with a "dent" even though the KHS is a Cro-mo frame. Scratches are one thing, a dent is another.
I think you could do better in your price range on the Internet or with a used bike. For a bit more, a reasonably good shop should be able to put you on an undented steel frame with 105 and CXPs.
May 18, 2002 3:54 PM
|The thing is, my price range started as $500-550. I found a Lemond Nevada City '01 on the internet for $579(no shipping or taxes) but then I would have to pay to have it put together and I wouldn't have a relationship with an LBS. For the under $600 price I havent seen a bike with something better than Sora. What bike would you recommend I look at? Money is tight, especially since I haveno idea how I'll take to biking. BTW, used is tough because I have looked for several months and come up empty that way.|
May 19, 2002 3:14 PM
|In your price range and given your needs/wishes, I would check this site's classifieds and ebay. You'll need to split shipping costs and deal with a good shop for final assembly (which is not alot- usually attaching wheels and bars). A good shop will value future patronage in the hope of selling you the next one. Also, LBS make more off maint. than selling cheap frames. I've bought a Kestrel and a beater Bianchi used. A year ago, I paid $500 for a Campione w/ Veloce-Mirage mix and CXP's. I love this bike as much as my custom titanium. KHS is O.K., but you can find better quality from Lemond, Marin, Fuji, Trek, especially used. Go to wrenchscience.com and figure out your size first. Best of luck!|
|go for it!||crosscut|
May 18, 2002 5:47 PM
This is a small dent and on a steel bike, it won't affect the integrity. Just make sure the bike fits!
May 18, 2002 8:32 PM
|What are some key points related to fit. Are there some things that I should look for/at? How do I know what fits properly and what's just the way the bike is? I still don't know what I want to do about this but keep the advice flowing.|
May 19, 2002 6:42 AM
For adjusting the fit of the bike, there are roughly five starting points:
1. Seat height (top of saddle to center of pedal axle) at 108-110% of inseam.
2. Saddle parallel to ground.
3. Saddle fore/aft adjusted so that a plumb bob from the bony protrusion just below the kneecap passes through the pedal axle when the cranks are horizontal. This is known as KOPS (Knee Over Pedal Spindle)
4. Front hub axle obscured by the handlebars when riding in your "regular" position (drops, hoods, or tops).
5. Top of handlebars 1 to 4.5+ inches below the top of the saddle depending on your flexibility and size.
These are all starting points for "average" proportioned people, and many folks like to move away from these starting points as they learn what makes them more comfortable, powerful, or efficient. You want to get the fit of the frame as close as you can, then do minor adjustments with the stem, seat post, saddle position, etc.