|help me with my creak...do you have any ideas||ishmael|
Apr 9, 2002 10:49 AM
|ive got a new creak and im out of ideas for what the cause could be...it happends at the bottom of both pedal strokes when i crank hard out of the saddle...it happends in both chainrings...ive given the bars, cranks, seat, and parts of the frame some strong pressure but it hasnt come up...ive also checked the bolts on the cranks and chainrings...if its the bb, which i suspect it is, will i need a crank puller and bb remover to find out if its loose?..its a loud single creak..the bb is about a year and a half old (campy record) and the frame is 4 months old (starship aluminum)|
|re: help me with my creak...do you have any ideas||mixinbeatz|
Apr 9, 2002 11:23 AM
|Not hearing the noise, I would guess it is the BB. Both my Aluminum bikes have developed creaks at the BB that were solved with a little grease.|
|re: help me with my creak...do you have any ideas||ridewt|
Apr 9, 2002 11:28 AM
|I think all aluminum bikes creak periodically. I've especially noticed that the seat and seatpost creak. You have to take them out periodically, clean, put clean grease on, and then reinsert. Same deal with the BB. You have to pull it out periodically and clean and regrease.|
|This is gonna sound too easy but||JS|
Apr 9, 2002 11:30 AM
|try tightening your front QR a litle more. I've solved creaks on a lot of bikes this way. People just shake their heads afterwards. The "out of the saddle" is a giveaway as the weight on the handlebars while rocking the bike standing is what tends to cause this.|
|My creak went away this way.||Alex-in-Evanston|
Apr 9, 2002 11:52 AM
|I worked on a creak for months but couldn't get it to go away. I greased BB threads, crank bolts, charinring bolts, stem bolts, tightened bars. I was all set to buy a new headset.
It finally went away one day after I flatted the front tire. I must have tightened the QR when I put the wheel back on. Go figure.
|re: help me with my creak...do you have any ideas||robbz27|
Apr 9, 2002 11:32 AM
|Another off the wall possibility...make sure your bedals aren't the cause of your creak. Lube pedals as well as cleats. (Triflow or something similar)|
|how do you grease the bb||ishmael|
Apr 9, 2002 11:40 AM
|its not the pedals or quick release(ive had that one before, never again)...so how do you grease the bb, i need a crank puller and bb remover right?...i guess take it out, cover it with grease and then put it back and tighten everything..|
|how do you grease the bb||robbz27|
Apr 9, 2002 12:07 PM
|You're on the right track.
Be sure to grease everything threaded, that includes the BB as well as BB shell in the frame.
If you haven't greased this before, I suspect that taking care of this should cure the problem (as does everyone else I see)
In response to your question, it depends on what you are running. DA and Ultegra use a self-extracting bolt that only requires an 8mm allen key. Campy needs the crank puller. After that you will need the splined BB tool for either I believe, unless you have DA then you need the lockring tool. How confusing is this sounding? I suck.
I'm going to quit now and let someone else who can explain it better do so. Sorry.
|Perhaps this will Help......||Ligon|
Apr 9, 2002 1:53 PM
|The most important thing to remember is that not all BB shells are threaded the same. However, the majority of new road bikes all have english threading. This means that the drive side of your BB has left-hand threads. In other words when you turn the cup counterclockwise you are tightening the cup. The non driveside is tightened clockwise.
1.)To remove the crank arm you will need to insert an allen key into the crank bolt. I am not sure what kind of cranks you have but if they are self extracting the crank will pull off as you unscrew the bolt. If you find the crank arm still on after the crank bolt is removed you will need a crank puller.
2.) You want to remove the non driveside cup first. So insert the splined cup tool into the BB and turn it counterclockwise. Once this is removed you may now do the same for the driveside but turn the tool clockwise.
3.) Once you have removed the BB you should wipe it down really well and also wipe down the BB shell. As some of the other posters have stated you will want to grease everything that is threaded. Do not be shy with the grease, you can not overgrease.
4. Once greased you will want to install the driveside first, turning it counterclockwise. Next install the non-driveside cup turning it closkwise. When you go to install the BB be careful that you are not cross threading. You do not want to strip the threads out of the shell. Although, this is sometimes fixable it is not recomemded. The BB should go in very smoothly, if you experience a lot of resistence back it out and start over.
This is a lot to try to do but is a fairly easy task. If you do not feel up to it I would suggest taking it to a LBS. Hope this helps.
|you sure it's not the saddle? (nm)||ColnagoFE|
Apr 9, 2002 12:48 PM
|Here is the Solution.||sievers11|
Apr 9, 2002 7:27 PM
|1) you will need a crank puller as well as the proper tools to remove the bottom braket for your campy equip. (There are no special campy equipment you will need, as there are in some campy work)
2) Every thing needs grease, and don't use that syn crap here, it has it place, but you need a man-ly grease.
3) when you install the BB back make sure you get the crank to the correct spec. torque. You do not want to go too tight, you can ruin a frame.
4) An extra little tip if this doesn't work...I used to moutain bike alot (racing etc..) we where much harder on frames and BB, I went through BB like no ones business...generally the problem here was contaminats from dust and a lot of slow out of the saddle climbing, plus an aluminum frame. The AL is more pron to this because the material of AL is soft. When you stand up and crank with your body weight you put a ton of pressure on the BB, and if you haven't had a overhaul in a while, undoubtably your BB treads were not greased like they should have been. This causes a slight abrasive quaility in the threading, and expand the contacts ever so slightly, and Wa-La annoying creak. You can grease all day long and it will still creak, but here is my solution. And it works very very well. Get some plumbers teflon tape (the thin white stuff) Grease every thing then wrap 1-2 full wraps of the teflon tape. (make sure you wrap correctly so it stays on while you rethread the BB shell.) Put a nice little coat of grease over the tape as well. This little bead of tape will fill in the gaps that were being ground away in the threads.
The creak is coming from the friction of the frame against the BB shell. This is a similar reason that all of our integrated head sets will destroy our frames and squeak like hell. Check out Cris Kings site for a compleate guide to how our integrated headsets are killing our frames. ( it is a PDF)
|maybe someone put a BB in your seat-tube?||bianchi boy|
Apr 9, 2002 7:40 PM