|Three maintanence questions...||riney|
Apr 7, 2002 4:22 PM
|I was cleaning up my bike today and came across a few things I hope you can help me with.
One of my crank bolts is cracked almost down the middle. It is a TNT Ti BB w/Topline cranks. What would have caused this? Can I just replace the bolt?
I pulled my seatpost out and noticed some moisture...so I turned the bike over and about a half cup of water poured out. It is a steel frame so; How could it have gotten there (I have done a few rides in the rain this year but what would be the point of entry)? What can I do to avoid rusting from the inside out? Do I need to spray some of the frame saver stuff in there?
When I pulled my seat post I cleaned all the grease off of it and then realized I did not have any to replace it with. My LBS is not so local so is there any thing I could purchase at my more local hardware store instead?
Thanks in advance for your help.
|re: Three maintanence questions...||Lone Gunman|
Apr 7, 2002 4:40 PM
|Hard to tell about the crank bolt, if that is all that is damaged, the LBS may have a suitable bolt on hand.
The water can enter from a number of places, the drain holes throughout the frame, the seat tube and the neck of the stem area. most likely the drain holes and water tends to pool at the lowest point of the bike, the bb area. Yes it needs to be cleaned and dried (bike upside down for a day) it would be a good idea to put some sort of frame saver Wiegles, Boesheild9, something to protect the tubes. I have sealed off my drain holes (they are not "drain holes", they are holes to vent heat out in the welding process of mfg) with a clear silicone dab over the holes.
Grease. I am curently using a Coastal lithium bearing grease bought from the local Advance Auto parts store. You can go buy the fancy shmancy phil wood green gold bullion grease @ $137 per troy ounce and not get any more noticeable performance from using it. Grease is grease and bearing grease is fine for bicycles.
|Do Not use Bearing Grease||liu02bhs|
Apr 7, 2002 4:59 PM
|Do not use automotive bearing grease, it contain some extra ingredient to help it performe well under extreme heat. Unfortuante the extra ingredient make the grease extremely sticky too. Buy the white lithium grease, it's just as good as bike grease.|
Apr 7, 2002 6:13 PM
|The crank bolt is most likely made of aluminum which is not the best material for this application. Get some steel replacements or maybe Ti and you should be OK from here on out.
The water in the frame is quite common. The most common place of entry is through the gap between the seat tube and the seat post. Some frames have a hole in the bottom bracket shell to let the water out. If you ride in the rain alot, you might want to drill a hole in the bottom bracket shell to let the water out. And yes, treat the frame with Framesaver or similar.
Regarding the grease, get some basic white Lithium grease from the auto parts store. Don't use automotive wheel bearing grease because it is too thick. And coat the seatpost before you stick it back in. The grease will help block the water from slipping past and into the frame.
Apr 7, 2002 7:14 PM
|Why would excessive viscosity (stickiness) in a grease be detrimental when used as a seat post grease? Wouldn't the extra viscosity be useful for sealing the gaps and imperfections between the seat tube and seat post? I see the point with bearings but the seat tube ain't gonna move much.|
|Very astute question||Nessism|
Apr 7, 2002 7:45 PM
Your are quite accurate in your assessment regarding the seatpost grease. The heavier the better.
My comments relate to bearing grease only. And further, automotive grease sold as "disk brake" bearing grease is a lighter viscosity than the more common standard "wheel bearing grease". I use the disk brake grease on lots of bicycle applications including on the hub bearings of my bikes.
|What is the difference between||Lone Gunman|
Apr 8, 2002 9:27 AM
|"lithium disk brake wheel bearing" grease and white lithium grease? Color? The viscosity "feels" the same. I bought some Finishline White grease in the tube a few years ago and I find the stuff vaporizes/disolves too quickly, so I went to the lithium stuff that is caramel colored.|
|Disk brake grease||Nessism|
Apr 8, 2002 11:07 AM
|The disk brake stuff can withstand a higher temp before breaking down. Brakes generate a lot of heat - particualarly disk brakes.
FYI, traditional wheel bearing grease is a super heavy body grease with long fibers - too thick for bicycle bearings. Even though it is super thick at room temps, apparently it breaks down at high temps more so than disk bearing grease.
As I understand, the Finishlike white grease is a synthetic product and different from the common white lithium automotive stuff. I've used it although it does seem to go away fast as you have noted.
|While we're on the topic . . .||speedisgood|
Apr 8, 2002 3:38 PM
|I just bought a tub of old (circa '99 I think) Shimano Spin Doctor bearing grease. It's the flourescent yellow stuff they pack in hubs and loose bearings. Anyhoo, I noticed when I got home that there were little chunks of what seem like coagulated grease. Small, small pieces, maybe the size of pencil eraser chunks after you erase something.
Doesn't seem to hinder the smoothness of bearings when in use but I gotta wonder "wassupwitdat!"
Any thoughts, oh Great One of All Knowledge (that's you cue, Ed)?
|While we're on the topic . . .||Nessism|
Apr 8, 2002 6:55 PM
|Sounds like your tub of grease is starting to seperate - just a guess. Break out the blender and whip that stuff back into shape! Ahh, the single life. Enjoy.
|Thanks ALL for your input...(nm)||riney|
Apr 7, 2002 9:25 PM