|Chain wedges against dropout when on smallest cog.||Alex-in-Evanston|
Mar 19, 2002 11:58 AM
|Drivetrain is Chorus 10.
When on the 12, the outside of the chain contacts the dropout and wedges tight. This is not a case of shifting off the cog and into the stays, the chain makes contact when seated firmly on the cog.
The tolerances, which are millimetric even in the best circumstances, seem to be off by a hair. It happens in the 39 and the 53. Seems like the logical solution would be to put a spacer back there to spread the stays a millimeter or two, although I don't know what spacer, or where to put it.
Any advice is appreciated.
|sounds like maybe...||SteveO|
Mar 19, 2002 12:17 PM
|improper dishing (and therefore spacing) ??? maybe.|
|Well, on my old Suntour-equipped mountain bike...||cory|
Mar 19, 2002 12:20 PM
|...I just put a 3-cent washer from Home Depot between the lock nut on the axle and the inside of the dropout. Moved it right out there where it belonged. Doesn't seem like you should have to do that with a Chorus driveline, though....|
|It's not that uncommon,||TJeanloz|
Mar 19, 2002 12:41 PM
|You have two options. You can add a thin (~1mm) washer to the outside of the axle, and risk having it fall off every time you take the wheel out. Or you can put the washer in between the cone race and the lock nut. The second option might require you to move the axle over a little bit, and is a bit more work- but it is the right thing to do. Any quality bicycle shop should have the washer you need.|
|It's not that uncommon,||mackgoo|
Mar 19, 2002 3:08 PM
|Actually on the right sideb there are no adjustable cones are there? If he added the spacer between the two nut lock nut arangement wouldn't that do it?|
Mar 19, 2002 3:20 PM
|It depends on the hub- they're all a little different on that end of things. But as long as he's able to squeeze a washer between two locknuts (and maybe re-center the axle), he should get the job done.|
|It's not that uncommon,||Nessism|
Mar 19, 2002 7:37 PM
|Installing the washer between the nut and cone sounds like a better solution than a washer on the outside. Most lock nuts have serrations that help bite into the dropout and keep the wheel in place. If a washer is installed on the end of the axle, the serrations will not have a chance to do their job.
|Derailleur limit adjustment||BipedZed|
Mar 19, 2002 12:42 PM
|Most likely the solution is as simple as adjusting the high gear (small cog) limit screw on your rear derailleur.
1. Shift the chain onto the smallest cog.
2. Completely loosen the rear der. cable. This is important, failure to do this will not allow the limit to be correctly adjusted.
3. Sighting from the rear, tighten the high gear limit screw (on Chorus the screw on the right) until the upper derailleur pulley is in line with the smallest cog and the chain is not contacting the rear dropout.
4. Reattach and tighten the rear der. cable.
Hope this helps.
|what's it like on the other side?||slow-ron|
Mar 19, 2002 12:49 PM
|Did you just install the cassette for the first time? I had the same problem and I found that the biggest end of the cassette had a spacer that wasn't seated properly on the freehub. When I took of the cogs and re-seated the first one all the others fell into place and the chain didn't rub.
Not sure what to do if that doesn't work because I don't think you can adjust axle to hub position on Chrous hubs like you can on Shimano.
|re: Chain wedges against dropout when on smallest cog.||curlybike|
Mar 19, 2002 1:08 PM
|Is this a real old frame?|
|Cassette on right?||Kerry|
Mar 19, 2002 5:28 PM
|While this can be fixed with a washer, something doesn't seem right here. These things are built to work - there should be enough space between the lock nut and the face of the smallest cog to prevent this. UNLESS your frame is somehow a goofy design (stays go too far onto the dropout?). Otherwise, it sounds like your cassette body may not be properly all the way on the hub. Try comparing the distance between your lock nut and cog with a wheel you know is good. For any hub design, you have a cone/spacer/washer/locknut (sometimes no washer) combination that determines how far the smallest cog is spaced from the frame. You can move the axle left and right, but it doesn't change this spacing. Unless your washer got left out, I'd make sure that cassette body is properly installed.|
|are your axle locknuts on correctly?||Alexx|
Mar 20, 2002 4:24 AM
|This happened to me recently when overhauling my rear hub. One cone locknut was thicker than the other, and I got them mixed up. Cogs sat too close to the dropout and the chain hit.|
|I neglected to say that wheel is Rolf V. Pro||Alex-in-Evanston|
Mar 20, 2002 5:45 AM
|I neglected to say that wheel is Rolf V. Pro||slow-ron|
Mar 20, 2002 6:30 AM
|Confused. Is it a Rolf wheel with a campy compatable freehub & campy 10 cassette? I thought that you had a campy chorus rear hub. If is was a chorus hub then all the talk about locknuts and scacing above would not really be relevant because the chorus hubs don't have the traditional cone/washer/nut arrangement that can be adjusted. The chorus nut threads tight to the axle and there is no washer to space it.
If the rolf hubs are anything like shimano you can go to the LBS and for a buck add an additional washer/spacer to move the lock nut out and thereby move the cassette in away from the dropout. One problem you may have is that there won't be enough of the axle protruding to sit in the drop out after the adjustment and the wheel will need to be dished to align with the center of the rear stays.