RoadBikeReview.com's Forum Archives - General


Archive Home >> General(1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 )


Seatposts and Setback(7 posts)

Seatposts and Setbackcincy1
Mar 19, 2002 3:52 AM
I had my LBS do a detailed fitting for me this year. The improvement in position and comfort was significant. When we arrived at my best seat position, the seat was all the way forward on the Campy set back post I was using. It creaked like crazy which drove me nuts. I bought a great Thompson post without any setback. With this post, I couldn't get the seat back far enough to reach my optimal position. I tried a BP Stealth carbon post which had three selectable setbacks. I got the seat dead on but the Stealth clamp won't hold the seat without loosening during a ride. Does anyone know of another product to solve the problem of optimal setback? The Look Ergo post got lousy reviews on this site so I am reluctant to purchase it.
Since you liked the ThompsonSpoke Wrench
Mar 19, 2002 6:05 AM
why not try the Thompson set back version? That will give you an extra 5/8" of set back (compared to a straight Thompson post). You need to have a minimum of 80mm from the top of the frame's seat tube to the saddle rails.
Since you liked the Thompsoncincy1
Mar 19, 2002 8:35 AM
I didn't do a good job of explaining the situation. A setback post puts me too far back. A straight post positions the seat too far forward. I need something in between. The only two products I have seen are the BP Stealth post and the Look Ergo's. Is there anything else out there that would let me adjust in between?
im confused...SteveO
Mar 19, 2002 9:18 AM
I cant imagine the <1" setback of the thompson will move you TOO far rearward if the straight version places you too far forward.

Approximately how long is the setback in your current config?
understanding setback...C-40
Mar 19, 2002 10:00 AM
First of all, there is no standard point from which to measure "setback". Traditional road posts (like campy's)have the front of the seat rail clamp positioned approximately in line with the centerline of the seatpost.

The position of the front of the clamp limits the amount that the saddle can be moved back. Your problem stems from campy's wide seat rail clamp that limits the amount that the saddle can be pushed forward.

The Thomson straight up model positions the front of the clamp .40 inch or 1cm in front of the seat post centerline. Compared to the campy post, the front of the clamp is 2.36cm or nearly a full inch further forward. I always warn people that this post is rarely suitable for a road bike.

The Thomson "setback" model moves the clamp back by 15 to 16mm or 5/8", compared to the straight-up model. This clamp position has slightly less setback than most traditional road posts. It should allow the saddle to be positioned further forward than campy's. It depends on the positon of the back side of the clamp.

You might also consider an ITM Millenium post. The clamp width is less than Campys, which will allow the saddle to be moved further forward, but not a huge amount. If you can't get a post to measure before purchasing one, the alternative is to purchase a post and carefully measure the clamp position before you mount it on the bike. That way you can send it back unused.
re: Saddles vary at least as much as posts.dzrider
Mar 19, 2002 11:07 AM
This may open a whole new can of worms for you as changing saddles can be a very trying experience, but rails vary quite a bit in both length and placement.
you sure the bike fits? Don't forget the Anvil factorET
Mar 19, 2002 1:34 PM
Let's say there's some ideal setback post for your bike (having to do with weight distribution and all that--the Anvil factor), probably the one that came with the bike. Changing it to make it fit might get you in the right position but leave your balance over the bike all wrong. OTOH, if you got a custom Anvil, you wouldn't have this problem.

(After a previous thread with Anvil, I'm just feeling guilty right now that I had to move my seat 1 cm forward and swap a 120 for a 110 stem. I'm tempted to just throw the frame in the garbage and salvage the components onto a custom. After all, the balance is all out of wack.)