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I could use the help of a Campy expert!(12 posts)

I could use the help of a Campy expert!DaveG
Mar 17, 2002 3:44 PM
This weekend I decided to overhaul my Campy Veloce (’99) hubs. This is the first time I’ve attempted this with Campy, although I’ve overhauled Shimano hubs several times. I was able to reinstall the axle and bearing cones and got an adjustment I was happy with. However, when I installed the freehub body it seemed to spin tighter than it had before. It’s not rough, just tighter. I did not tighten the drive side locknut that much – just slightly snug. Even with a very loose adjustment it seemed tighter than I remembered it. I retried installing the freehub thinking that maybe the pawls were not in right but that did not help (they sound OK when I spin). Now when the bike is in the stand and I spin backwards there is more resistance and the wheel rotates. Again, it’s not rough or jumpy, just tighter. I don’t remember that being the case before. The only thing that seemed odd to me during the overhaul was that the right-side grease seal did not distinctly “snap” in. Could this be a cause? Any other ideas? Will it loosen up? Am I worrying too much?
re: I could use the help of a Campy expert!curlybike
Mar 17, 2002 4:03 PM
When you adjust the cones there should be a barely perceptable shake in thewheel, when mounted in a truing stand without a skewer. You could use your bike, with the wheel in the drop outs, try to wiggle the rim. A slight wiggle will go away when the skewer is pulled up tite.Did you pump a bunch of grease into the freehub body through the grease holes in the body, if so it will make the freehub part feel snug until the extra grease moves into free cavities. Did you get the o-ring around the freehub body in a kink, between the body and hub cavity. Did you use the campy tool to hold the pawls and springs? Dental floss works better. If a spring popped out, that could be a problem. You should pull up the drive side lock nut until it is pretty snug, the allen set screw does not need to be real tite, snug is fine. If that lock nut is too loose the body will float side to side and booger the axle shoulder that it pulls up to.I have seen and done all of these. I am sure there are more possibilities but I havn't seen them yet. Let me know what you find, please.Also read your message, there is a bunch of characters I don't understand??
re: I could use the help of a Campy expert!DaveG
Mar 17, 2002 4:48 PM
Thanks for the reply. The left cone adjustment seems good, just the freewheeling part is tight. I did not add any extra grease to the freehub body, nor did I flush the part after removing it. When I installed the body, I initially used a twist tie to hold the pawls. After a couple of re-attempts I used just my fingers. Everything "seemed" OK but I can't rule out a pawl/spring issue. It seemed to spin well until I starting snugging down the locknut (even a little bit). I guess I'll take the thing apart and try again. Sorry for the bizarre characters in the original post - I copied it from Microsoft Word and it seemed to pick up some control characters.
re: I could use the help of a Campy expert!mackgoo
Mar 17, 2002 4:57 PM
When you tightened the drive side how did you hold the assembly so you could tighten the nut? If you used the non drive side you still could have overtightened that side. The other thing the previous poster was getting at was clamping the wheel into the fram actually tightens everything up even more possibly overtightening. I've only dealt with Athena and Record I'm pretty sure that Veloce is the same, any way the non drive side cone is the only adjustment on these hubs.
re: I could use the help of a Campy expert!DaveG
Mar 17, 2002 6:24 PM
mackgoo, if I understand this correctly, once you tighten and lock the non-drive side, the bearing adjustments are done because the axle has the right cone attached to it. The drive side locknut seems to just attach the freehub body. Let me know if I have that wrong. The hub bearing adjustment seems good; its the freehub that seems a bit off.
A couple of things to considerKerry
Mar 17, 2002 5:12 PM
I am not aware of the bearing setup on these hubs (could look it up on the Campy web site, but that's your problem) but Record hubs of this vintage have different size bearings left (1/4") and right (7/32"). It's perfectly possible to switch the bearings, adjust the hub, and think you've got it right. But things never really seem to work. Your grease seal is another possibility - if it's not in the track, it could be binding. You might be able to see some damage to the rubber if you got it in crooked. Finally, open up the cassette and check that the pawl springs are still in their proper slots. If one of them is popped out of its track, the spring could be pinched in the space between the cassette body and the hub.
re: I could use the help of a Campy expert!curlybike
Mar 17, 2002 5:53 PM
This time use dental floss to keep the pawls and springs that you are going to clean and grease in place. Put a very light smear of light grease on the ratchet teeth. I have been doin this since 95 and had no ill effects from the grease. My bet is on a kinked spring. If you ruined a spring, I can send you one.
how do you get the floss in placeDaveG
Mar 17, 2002 7:57 PM
curlybike, after playing around with it some more I suspect it was the seal. Once I got the seal fully seated the body spun much easier than before (without the spings and pawls). But, now I can't get the darn thing back in springs and all. Can you explain the floss method. How do you get the floss around the body while you are compressing the springs? Is this a two person operation? Somehow I did it before with just my fingers (shop mechanics recommendation) but for whatever reason that isn't working now.
how do you get the floss in placecurlybike
Mar 18, 2002 8:18 AM
Being right handed, I hold the freehub body in my left hand with the pawl end to the right. Hold one end of an 18" piece of floss with the left hand against the splined part. Using the right hand set the springs and pawls in place, gluing them temp. with grease. They will be on the verge of popping out and some might, but they will eventually stay. Do this over a clean area so you can spot the parts if you drop them. Bring the floss over the pawls carefully and compress the springs and pawls with the floss. Make several wraps and leave a long end dangling. Install the body on the axle until the o-ring is about to touch the hub. Unwind the floss using the tail. Push the body into place while stuffing the o-ring into the hub. Spin the body and it should be fine. Repace the lock washer and flat al. washer and left lock nut. This is easier the second time. If you wrap the right way the natural action is to close the pawls, don't try the other way. Hopefully I have helped.
Got it fixed - thanksDaveG
Mar 18, 2002 6:57 PM
Turned out that the gasket/seal was not fully sealed and was "floating" around causing drag. Felt an immediate difference once seated correctly. I could not quite get the hang of the floss thing. Ended up asking my wife to wrap the floss while I held the pawls - an amateur move but it got it done (1st try too). Thanks for the help.
Got it fixed - thankscurlybike
Mar 18, 2002 9:59 PM
Installing that seal can bee a booger. They added that in 95, I think. If you pump to much grease into the freehub it ends up in the ratchet cavity. Glad we could help. Looks like Kerry hit it on the head.
thanks all for your suggestionsDaveG
Mar 17, 2002 6:28 PM
Getting this thing perfect has become my life's mission. I'm too stubborn now to take it in to the shop and admit defeat. I'll tear it apart tomorrow and check all the things that were mentioned and see where it takes me. Thanks