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Release difficult from new Campy Record Pro-Fit pedals(10 posts)

Release difficult from new Campy Record Pro-Fit pedalsSlipstream
Mar 11, 2002 10:30 AM
Even at the least tension setting, it is extremely difficult to release these pedals. Also, it is difficult clipping in. The spring is really strong. It there a break-in period where it becomes easier or is there some technique that I should try?

Thanks for your help.
re: Release difficult from new Campy Record Pro-Fit pedalsgrzy
Mar 11, 2002 10:42 AM
Which cleats do you have - fixed or floating? I run the floating setup and they're very easy to release from with a medium tension setting. However, the pedals can be a tad tricky to clip into, but it's not too bad if you're familiar with something like a Look or Time pedal system. Sometimes a shot of silicone spray or some of the drying type of chain lube will make things run a lot smoother. I haven't really noticed a break-in period per se. Some other posters here have reported problems with clipping in and have stopped using the pedals for this reason. Personally I think they're one of the better pedal systems for road riding, but they do have their faults like most everything else.
Might be something wrong?McAndrus
Mar 11, 2002 11:39 AM
If you've done all the adjustments the only thing I can think of is that there's something wrong with the pedals. I have Daytonas which clip in and out very easily on a medium tension adjustment. They worked fine from day one.
do a USENET search for this. A solution is out there (nm)ColnagoFE
Mar 11, 2002 11:55 AM
Break in periodPaulCL
Mar 11, 2002 11:58 AM
My Record profits where very difficult to work with for the first 500 miles or so. Now they are great. Keep working on them, use some lubricant. I had my tension set at the lightest early on and gradually moved it to the middle. FYI I use the cleats with the float.
Pro-fit releaseDMoore
Mar 11, 2002 3:43 PM
I had the same problem when I first got my first set of Pro-fit pedals. I was so frustrated I had to stop, take my foot out of the shoe, and then twist like hell to get the shoe out of the pedal.

It appears that release technique is an issue - twist your heel to the outside to release, rolling the outside of your foot slightly upward as you do so. Once I learned that trick, I had no more problems. Keeping the foot perfectly flat as you twist seems to jam it. I now have Pro-fits on 4 different bikes, and have no problems with them whatever.

Give it a try - it worked for me. The subsequent pedals and replacement cleats have needed no break-in period at all.
Correct Disengagement Technique: Unweight the foot???Slipstream
Mar 11, 2002 5:20 PM
Thanks for your replies. It seems that there is a lot of design in these pedals that will take me some time to fully appreciate. As grzy stated, these are one of the better pedal systems.

The key to disengagement sems to be to UNWEIGHT the foot from the pedal and then twist. I found this explanation on the site. I had been putting weight on the pedal which only made it harder. I tried the unweighting method and it works like a charm. I also use a fixed cleat because I like a locked-in feel although I see most people are using floating cleats.

Does anyone agree with the unweighting method?

Below are posts from campyonly 1999 and a 2001 update. Note that in the 2001 update, the writer recommends keeping the tension a the lowest level because it is difficult to disengage. Perhaps he didn't read the earlier post.

FROM 1999

Unweighted disengagement:

The new pedal body has a two smallish ramps that make the pedal increasingly harder to disengage with force applied. This means that the more pressure you are placing on the pedal the harder you will need to twist to make the cleat disengage. Why do I care? I have been in more than one crit sprint when somebody is rocking the bike hard and steps out of an older Look pedal or an SPD. The danger in most pedals is that there is very little feed-back to the rider at the point of disengagement. Time pedals give a progressive resistance until release which is better than most. The problem with Time is that the force required to get in and out of the pedal is usually more than the casual or light weight rider likes. The other problem that Time suffers is the constant return force that keeps centering your foot to the pedal. I would not say the Time pedal is free-floating like a red Look cleat. Campy fixed this with the ramps on the cleat base of the pedal. To disengage the pedal the cleat must twist and move up the post ramps at the same time to release. What this does for the rider is to make it increasingly more difficult to twist the cleat to get out as more pressure is applied to the pedal. Will I get stuck in the pedal? No, with a small amount of downward pressure on the pedal you will still pop right out. The point is, when you have enough weight on the pedal that you do not want to come out even if you twist hard enough to disengage most pedals, you will not come out. If the pedal did let you out at that point, you most likely would be singing a few octave above your normal self while straddling the top tube at 35mph. This is something that no other pedal on the market offers.

Adjustable Release Tension:

This is a big one! Why is it that the cleat retention and engagement springs are tied together on all the other pedals? If I want the holding power of a bench vise I need to get my wife to back over my foot with the car to get the cleat into the pedal. I usually have to jump up and down on the pedal to get in. Conversely, if I want and easy entry, I also get an easy exit. I hate it when that happens. Campy has split the springs: the entry spring is set apart from the exit spring with different springs working the vertical engagement and the horizontal disengagement. This means you can give your wife a set for Christmas and she will be able to step into them without your help. I made the mistake of giving my wife a set of Time pedals that she couldn't engage, because she did not weigh enough to push the cleat into the pedal. The other point is that you can now exit at what ever level of pressure you want and still keep the easy entry. You most likely will not need to crank this up like your old pedals due to the post ramps that prevent accidental disengagement.

FROM 2001 update

Things were a just a little bit different with the 2001 Pro-fit Plus. These pedals only came with "self-aligning PD-RE020" cleats, and not my preference, the "fixed RE021" cleats. That means, if you are like me, you have to shell out more cash for fixed ("without float") cleats. But, the big surprise came when I was riding the Pro-Fit Pluses on my usual 25 mile mountain loop. I immediately noticed that even with my no-float cleats, my shoes could swivel a bit on the pedals in a way that they never did on the 1999 models. While it may not be a big issue for most of Campy Only fans, it is nonetheless a fact, and a problem for those that don't like shoe swivel. After the ride, I tried to figure out why there was a difference, and a closer look at the two models gave me the answer. The old 1999 Pro-Fits have two cleat "stops" (one on each side of the back metal loop catch mechanism) while the new 2001 Pro-Fit Pluses only have one "stop" on the outboard side of the metal loop catch. This allowed for the inboard cleat swivel that I didn't expect (or appreciate). Just a "Heads -up" to those who prefer fixed cleats, and that fully "locked-in" feel. If you are like me, you might want to buy the old scratchy painted versions that don't allow swivel before they are no longer available (and while they are on closeout as well). The older Pro-Fits may be ugly, but for a truly "locked-in", "no-float" feel, they are the better set to get.
Oh, one more thing. I keep my release setting at, or very near, the minus (-) end and not the plus (+) end. Any other setting is almost impossible to release from.
Mar 11, 2002 5:42 PM
It's the opposite of SPDs. Unweight, then twist your heel out. Now you mention it, I remember having to figure it out a couple of years ago when I first got mine.
The other thing to watch for is that as the cleats get worn, the pedals get HARDER to release from.
Mar 11, 2002 5:54 PM
The pedals were specifically designed to be hard to release when weighted. This way, they would always hold in a sprint but still be easy enough to get out of. Pushing down while trying to release makes it much harder to disengage. When pulling up, they release like buttah.
One other thing: LubeSnowBlind
Mar 12, 2002 8:09 AM
I have found that my Chorus 2000 pedals benifit from an occational lube. Failing to do so made them impossible to get out of. Had to undo the straps while rolling and step out of the shoe!
Also they really don't like having Gatorade spilled on them....